i8thesun

This is a bit more involved than just replacing pads, but important to know just in case it gets more involved.

For only replacing pads, just pull the springs and retaining pins, check the caliper slides freely side-to-side, and the rubber boots on the slide pins look good. If the caliper doesn't slide easily or the boots look bad, you will need to take the caliper off and improve that situation.

I was in a hurry as this car needed to get back on the road, and parts were scarce. I ended up using NAPA parts, and didn't replace the rubber bits because I couldn't get them. They are cheap enough I always replace them, or at least buy them and return what I don't end up needing.

I'm not sure what comes in the box if you buy from Lexus, but it is wise to have new springs, pins, and rubber bits on hand, as well as new shims on the brake pads.

My setup: knee-pads are a godsend when working on the floor. Big pan saves a lot of cleanup time, most auto parts places have them. The Workmate platform is great for setting the caliper on while working, otherwise bend up some hangar wire to hang the caliper so it isn't putting strain on the hydraulic line. A drawer organizer for toolboxes is handy for organizing fasteners and parts. Home-made brake-fluid collector from a water bottle and rubber hose.

i8thesun

Remove the springs that hold the brake pins.

Loosen the bleed screw (8mm wrench), put the rubber hose on it, squeeze the caliper with C-clamp. The idea is to push the brake piston in enough that the pads come out easily. It only takes a little, but it is easier to squeeze while the caliper is bolted in place.

The piston needs to be fully pushed in for the new pads to fit, but I've never been able to do that at this stage. I open the bleed because I like to get any air or gunk out of the caliper, and I don't like to push air and gunk back into the brake line.

i8thesun

Knock the pins out, first with a hammer then with a drift punch and hammer.

i8thesun

This piston is not pushed in far enough, it needs to go in even with the rubber piston boot.

i8thesun

Two bolts hold the brake caliper bracket, 14mm I think...? Hint: loosen the slide bolt while the bracket is firmly mounted on the car, much easier than trying to hold the loose caliper while cranking on the bolt.

The brake rotor just pulled off at this point, but if it doesn't there are two threaded holes in the rotor for jacking it off. I'll try to remember to check the thread size tonight on the old rotor. If your parking brake shoes are dragging on the inside of the rotor (does anyone ever use this brake?), you may need to loosen the brake by turning the adjuster with a screwdriver. You can see the adjuster at the rear, sort of a star-shaped gear you can get to through a hole in the rotor with a rubber plug in it.

Edit: the holes in the rotor for jacking it away from the hub are threaded M8x1.25, so a common 8mm bolt or two will work.

i8thesun

Pushing the piston in the rest of the way

i8thesun

Take the brake slide bolt/pin out, and the brake caliper bracket is free. Clean it, replace rubber bits if you have them. Lube with your choice of brake grease, I use silicone grease. Silicone grease handles heat a bit better than hydrocarbon grease, and is good for rubber parts, while hydrocarbons are bad for them. I use it for anything that touches rubber, like lubricating O-rings and heater hoses and electrical connectors.

i8thesun

Reassemble. I used medium-strength threadlocker on all threads, as much to prevent corrosion as to keep from loosening, it tends to make a plastic seal to keep out moisture.

i8thesun

This rubber plug needs to be moved from the old rotor to the new.

Wash the new rotor down with brake cleaner. Then wash it again, inside and out. It cannot be too clean of oils that come on it from the factory.

I put a thin layer of silicone grease on the hub where the rotor will contact it, then a thin layer on the rotor where the wheel will rest, especially on the center flange of the hub that pokes into the wheel. These wheels are hub-centric, meaning they locate tightly on that center hub flange. Aluminum on steel is not optimum for corrosion, so a little grease there is good.

i8thesun

This brake wear indicator goes on the inboard pad, at the bottom.

I like to put silicone grease on the backs of my calipers, or on the calipers and pistons where they contact the pad backs. More silicone grease on the brake retainer pins.

i8thesun

And there you go. If you aren't sure about the springs, look at the opposite wheel. I take lots of pictures as I go to help with reassembly, and to post up.

NAPA parts, yeah not ideal, but these were not cheap and should do well. ~$60 for the ceramic-coated rotor and ~$60 for the ceramic pads.

Love the smell of new brakes, go out and cook that cheap paint off.

CarKrayz

great job!
hope we get more of these type of DIY post.

i8thesun

Yeah, if I ever get a shop manual for this car I'll feel more comfortable tearing stuff apart and posting it up. Apparently I can subscribe and download it all and save it on pdf, but it requires some computer skills I don't yet possess.

I've spent way too much time on car enthusiast sites since they were just shared mailing lists, basically emails we all sent to a central site that distributed them out. Some cars get a lot of in-depth wrenching threads, others never progress past discussions of bolt-on accessories. Big BMWs don't tend to get owned by shade-tree mechanics as much as Subarus, so you can find a lot more DIY information on Subarus. Older Land Cruisers have rabid enthusiasts, and you can find specs for every O-ring and wire on IH8MUD. Forums for newer ($80,000) Land Cruisers on 'MUD have less grit, a bit more genteel like their owners.

The more DIY threads are available, the more owners tend to do their own work, and generate more DIY threads.

gr8fulRed

I appreciate you taking the time/effort of putting up the pics and detailing this process. These DIY tutorials are great help to those of us who like to do as much of their own maintenance as possible. This will certainly come in handy when the time comes! Thanks again!

xbladex00

nice write up! my next step is rotors! I'm definitely using your post as a guide