2006 GS430 Coolant Issue - Air In System?? PLEASE HELP!!!
04-16-15, 02:15 PM
#16
I know! I hope its # 1! 
Speaking of blocked coolant passages...you know whats funny?? When I gave the car a coolant flush( ran a water hose through the engine block and radiator), when I went to refill the car with 50/50 antifreeze it only took a gallon. (this included bleeding the system with my lisle spill free funnel)? Does the entire cooling system for the 2006 GS430 only take a gallon to refill?
Thanks for the link and advice!
Speaking of blocked coolant passages...you know whats funny?? When I gave the car a coolant flush( ran a water hose through the engine block and radiator), when I went to refill the car with 50/50 antifreeze it only took a gallon. (this included bleeding the system with my lisle spill free funnel)? Does the entire cooling system for the 2006 GS430 only take a gallon to refill?
Thanks for the link and advice!
04-17-15, 06:35 AM
#17
Rookie
Thread Starter
Granted this is probably a older model GS430, I believe coolant capacity still applies since they're the same engine:
http://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/do...9U/pdf/6-2.pdf
If your lazy, it's supposedly 10.1L, or 2.66gal.
Hope it helps
http://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/do...9U/pdf/6-2.pdf
If your lazy, it's supposedly 10.1L, or 2.66gal.
Hope it helps
04-17-15, 07:05 AM
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
Oh no…. Was I not doing it right? Here is what I did… I unbolted the thermostat housing, removed the thermostat, disconnected 1 side of the upper radiator hose (the side connected to the radiator), got the water hose, inserted the water hose nozzle in the upper radiator hose, turned water on full blast, and ran it through the engine block until I saw no pink antifreeze coming out from the opposite side of the block where the thermostat was mounted. I then waited maybe 5- 10 min. or so until all the water came out of the block. Is this not the correct way to drain the block?
Last edited by rxmpvibes; 04-17-15 at 07:11 AM.
04-20-15, 06:34 AM
#20
Rookie
Thread Starter
Update: I purchased a compression test kit over the weekend but, I have not gotten a chance to work on the car. I'll keep you all posted.
Last edited by rxmpvibes; 04-20-15 at 07:14 AM.
04-20-15, 06:22 PM
#21
Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If coolant is getting into a cylinder you will find one spark plug looks much cleaner (literally steam cleaned) than the others, and white steam from the exhaust might continue after the engine is warmed up. If combustion gasses are getting into the coolant you will smell exhaust in the coolant and the coolant will be murky grey.
04-23-15, 02:53 PM
#22
Rookie
Thread Starter
If coolant is getting into a cylinder you will find one spark plug looks much cleaner (literally steam cleaned) than the others, and white steam from the exhaust might continue after the engine is warmed up. If combustion gasses are getting into the coolant you will smell exhaust in the coolant and the coolant will be murky grey.
05-03-15, 01:14 PM
#23
Hello everybody, I have a 2006 Lexus GS430 w/ 100k miles. I've been trying to solve my coolant issue for the longest and I've been doing research like crazy!!! The issue that I'm having is that coolant from the radiator is blowing back into the reservoir causing the reservoir to be overfilled and splattering all over the engine bay. Also, when this happens the fluid in the radiator drops significantly ( I have to keep dumping the lost coolant from the reservoir back into the radiator). Under normal driving the fluid wont blow over to the reservoir that much (just a little) but, when I drive long distances or if I floor it that is when the coolant from the radiator really pushes over into the reservoir. When the car cools, I find out that the coolant from the reservoir does not draw back into the radiator. (I'm guessing due to the air in the cooling system?)
Checklist on what has been done to the car:
- NEW Water Pump (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Timing Belt (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Thermostat (Installed by Lexus) (I also tested the thermostat in boiling water and it opened and closed)
- NEW Radiator (Installed by Lexus also was pressure tested and passed)
- NEW Radiator Cap (Genuine Toyota 1.1 bar)
- Coolant Flush (flushed radiator and engine block with water hose)
-Bled System with my Lisle Spill Free Funnel and Heater on MAX HOT Full blast! Heater is working good!
(Did this 3 times for 30 min+ to get rid off all the air bubbles)
- Performed a Block Test to see if any combustion gasses were in the cooling system, to determine if it was a blown/failing head gasket (passed)
I dont know what else to do at this point other then do a compression test and a leak down test. There is no coolant in the oil and no coolant leaks.
Car drives solid and strong!
Is there a bleeder valve on the GS430 somewhere or does it have a bleeder valve? Is it something I'm doing wrong? Any help will be grealty appreciated!!!
Checklist on what has been done to the car:
- NEW Water Pump (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Timing Belt (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Thermostat (Installed by Lexus) (I also tested the thermostat in boiling water and it opened and closed)
- NEW Radiator (Installed by Lexus also was pressure tested and passed)
- NEW Radiator Cap (Genuine Toyota 1.1 bar)
- Coolant Flush (flushed radiator and engine block with water hose)
-Bled System with my Lisle Spill Free Funnel and Heater on MAX HOT Full blast! Heater is working good!
(Did this 3 times for 30 min+ to get rid off all the air bubbles)
- Performed a Block Test to see if any combustion gasses were in the cooling system, to determine if it was a blown/failing head gasket (passed)
I dont know what else to do at this point other then do a compression test and a leak down test. There is no coolant in the oil and no coolant leaks.
Car drives solid and strong!
Is there a bleeder valve on the GS430 somewhere or does it have a bleeder valve? Is it something I'm doing wrong? Any help will be grealty appreciated!!!
05-03-15, 03:00 PM
#24
Rookie
Thread Starter
Oh really?!! Hmmmm... Very intersesting. Well, after I do the compression test if the #'s read ok then I will look into the radiator but, the radiator is new. The radiator was replaced last year by Lexus I think the warranty ended in April of this year (but it might be prorated, I can check with the dealer). Thanks!
Last edited by rxmpvibes; 05-03-15 at 03:08 PM.
05-03-15, 03:06 PM
#25
Rookie
Thread Starter
I was going to do the compression test on my car today but, it just dawned on me that my car is a push to start. So, how the heck would I perfrorm a compression test on a car with a push to start ignition? Any insight would be helpful....thanks!
05-03-15, 07:36 PM
#26
It should work the same way, pull all 6 plugs, disconnect all injector connectors(or pull fuel pump relay which ever is easier) connect your compression Guage, hold the throttle wide open and hold the start button to crank (8-12 revs should do) repeat on each cylinder
05-04-15, 07:02 AM
#28
Rookie
Thread Starter
Ok, thanks! Do you know where the fuel pump relay is located in these cars?
05-04-15, 07:08 AM
#29
Rookie
Thread Starter
Yes, the cap is well sealed on the radiator (I purchased a new geneuine toyota cap 1.1 bar). Coolant will draw back into radiator overnight from the expansion tank when there isnt as much air in the cooling system. The only time when it doesnt draw the coolant back into the radiator is when I either drive it hard or if I drive long distance on the hwy (this is when the pressure and air builds up in the cooling system).
Last edited by rxmpvibes; 05-04-15 at 07:36 AM.
05-04-15, 09:11 AM
#30
Some engines the cap is on the block with a sealed radiator, I was just wondering if yours was actually on the radiator or the engine.
Did you purchase new cap after having these problems or before.
If it was before, try a new cap.
If you bought a new cap already to solve this problem and it didn't work, you should try to get the radiator warrantied.
Here's why I don't think it's a problem with the engine/compression:
It passed the block test/combustion gas test
No misfire(dead giveaway)
It doesn't overheat when bleeding with the no spill funnel or at idle
Problem only started happening after radiator was replaced (correct?)
Did you purchase new cap after having these problems or before.
If it was before, try a new cap.
If you bought a new cap already to solve this problem and it didn't work, you should try to get the radiator warrantied.
Here's why I don't think it's a problem with the engine/compression:
It passed the block test/combustion gas test
No misfire(dead giveaway)
It doesn't overheat when bleeding with the no spill funnel or at idle
Problem only started happening after radiator was replaced (correct?)