Manual Shifting Mode
03-10-15, 05:28 PM
#31
Pole Position
Maybe using the term "aggressive" or "sport" is not sitting well with you. If I were driving "aggressively"...I would want my transmission staying in a lower gear longer, in order to keep the rpms up so that my throttle response would be much quicker (say than if my rpms were much lower and I punched the gas). That is what it does. To me...that is sport driving. On and off the gas more often and when I do go on or off...I want a faster motor/tranny response. So, I may be wrong in calling it "Sport mode", etc. That said, it's very obvious that regardless of this "S Mode"....Lexus did not intend for it to have anything to do with "towing"..as the manual specifically says that such activity is NOT RECOMMENDED and it's NOT DESIGNED for it. Yep...including your bicycle and definitely your camper.
03-10-15, 09:05 PM
#32
It is humorous to read this thread, I really don't understand where the notion that "S" stands for sport or anything to do with spirited driving, etc... I looked over the manual many times and it is never referred to as anything other than "S" mode. I like how people imagine the S stands for the coolest thing they can think of.
S does not let you shift anything, it allows you to knock out higher gears selectively to limit the shift range. Driving in S mode at 6 is the same as driving in D (on the GS35). Cars have had this ability since the day auto boxes were invented, my parents' old Pontiac 6000 had OD, D, 2, and 1 that let you range between all 4 mighty ratios of that car. The whole point of such selectors is to allow the driver to knock out taller gears in cases where the car is heavily loaded or towing something so that you don't blow the torque converter or damage the transmission, this is equally applicable on seep inclines, if you rely on the transmission detecting the excessive load and downshifting, you may end up with gear hunting and will in generally have a lot more load on the above components.
The difference is that in the old cars, there were not as sophisticated transmission control systems (ie computers) were dumb, so you had to pre-set your range while parked and there was a lock button on the selector in most cases. The new cars have a computer that will happily ignore you if you do something stupid like put it in 2 gear range when the car needs 4th for HWY speed.
In addition, in light of 6, and 8 speed auto boxes, the selector console would look pretty stupid if they added a position for each range, so you go into an M or S position and range through them via +/-.
If you want manual transmission get a proper car. I know people use this feature (being able to change the shift range while driving) to use engine brake force to slow down the car. I know I am guilty of doing so, but it is actually somewhat silly as well. Imagine this, you have a choice on which part of the car you want to stress and wear: the transmission or the brakes.... and you choose the transmission, seems like brakes are easier to maintain, but hey we all like to have fun.
S does not let you shift anything, it allows you to knock out higher gears selectively to limit the shift range. Driving in S mode at 6 is the same as driving in D (on the GS35). Cars have had this ability since the day auto boxes were invented, my parents' old Pontiac 6000 had OD, D, 2, and 1 that let you range between all 4 mighty ratios of that car. The whole point of such selectors is to allow the driver to knock out taller gears in cases where the car is heavily loaded or towing something so that you don't blow the torque converter or damage the transmission, this is equally applicable on seep inclines, if you rely on the transmission detecting the excessive load and downshifting, you may end up with gear hunting and will in generally have a lot more load on the above components.
The difference is that in the old cars, there were not as sophisticated transmission control systems (ie computers) were dumb, so you had to pre-set your range while parked and there was a lock button on the selector in most cases. The new cars have a computer that will happily ignore you if you do something stupid like put it in 2 gear range when the car needs 4th for HWY speed.
In addition, in light of 6, and 8 speed auto boxes, the selector console would look pretty stupid if they added a position for each range, so you go into an M or S position and range through them via +/-.
If you want manual transmission get a proper car. I know people use this feature (being able to change the shift range while driving) to use engine brake force to slow down the car. I know I am guilty of doing so, but it is actually somewhat silly as well. Imagine this, you have a choice on which part of the car you want to stress and wear: the transmission or the brakes.... and you choose the transmission, seems like brakes are easier to maintain, but hey we all like to have fun.
Downshifting so your revs go up to 3k rpm does nothing to your tranny, I guess your the person going down a very long hill with your brakes on the whole way because you don't downshift. As a matter of fact most cars now downshift automatically for the very purpose of saving gas because as I said they can turn off the fuel injectors if the rpm is above a certain level. With the car coasting they can't turn the injectors off. Many people have complained about this saying it feels as if their brakes come on when they are coasting to a stop, toyota camry for example had this complaint. Furthermore, on a windy road you have better control in a lower gear or by downshifting before the corner, especially if you intend to take the corner fsst, the Pacific Coast highway would be a perfect example. Yes it's not the same as a standard stick shift or a dual clutch tranny but it does give you more control. A race track would be another good example.
I downshift to almost every stop sign (mine is a 2gs so it's buttons on the steering wheel) and have 208k miles on my tranny with not a single issue. But when I downshift I don't rev it past 3k that is enough to keep the injectors off to almost the full stop. I can feel the injectors turn back on when the rpm drops below a certain level when I am coasting. Furthermore when going down a long curvy hill using your tranny instead of your brakes gives you better control and anyone who knows knows long hills and brakes equal wrapped rotors, especially on toyotas.
Last edited by sam12345; 03-10-15 at 10:18 PM.
03-10-15, 09:17 PM
#33
Maybe using the term "aggressive" or "sport" is not sitting well with you. If I were driving "aggressively"...I would want my transmission staying in a lower gear longer, in order to keep the rpms up so that my throttle response would be much quicker (say than if my rpms were much lower and I punched the gas). That is what it does. To me...that is sport driving. On and off the gas more often and when I do go on or off...I want a faster motor/tranny response. So, I may be wrong in calling it "Sport mode", etc. That said, it's very obvious that regardless of this "S Mode"....Lexus did not intend for it to have anything to do with "towing"..as the manual specifically says that such activity is NOT RECOMMENDED and it's NOT DESIGNED for it. Yep...including your bicycle and definitely your camper.
03-10-15, 09:26 PM
#34
...
enough on that.
as for the towing bit... yes I saw that. I am pretty sure the GS can handle a couple of 30lbs bikes on a tralier rack. as for Towing a trailer, it is peculiar that Toyota in N/A does not list a towing capacity for these cars, in other geographies they are listed as 3500 lbs towing (see the techincal data capacities show 1600kg towing ability) and they even add hitches on for you
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs-350/#/Accessories
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs...Specifications
Anyone who thinks a car with this much torque can't tow is off their rocker... or just fiddling with "S" mode a little too much.
03-10-15, 09:33 PM
#35
you are right 3K RPM does nothing, try downshifting to 3rd when on the HWY and tell me if it is at 3K RPM, either it will go higher depending on your HWY speed, or it will beep and ignore you and throw in a higher gear anyway. hence my point remains, manual shifting is useless.
Your point being? that the car knows when to shift down on its own without anyone screwing around with the shift range? As a matter of fact, I explicitly stated, if you want more aggressive shift down on declaration, the proper way to do it is via the ECT PWR setting for transmission, not S mode
Total lack of understanding in how gasoline engine works, injectors off = stalled car, they will not restart without starter cranking due to the torque converter causing no wheel force to actually crank the engine and in turn alternator and ignition sequence. The GS does not have active cylinder management that shuts off *some* cylinders when under light load. Lean burn direct injection is not at all comparable to "turning off"
...
enough on that.
as for the towing bit... yes I saw that. I am pretty sure the GS can handle a couple of 30lbs bikes on a tralier rack. as for Towing a trailer, it is peculiar that Toyota in N/A does not list a towing capacity for these cars, in other geographies they are listed as 3500 lbs towing (see the techincal data capacities show 1600kg towing ability) and they even add hitches on for you
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs-350/#/Accessories
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs...Specifications
Anyone who thinks a car with this much torque can't tow is off their rocker... or just fiddling with "S" mode a little too much.
Your point being? that the car knows when to shift down on its own without anyone screwing around with the shift range? As a matter of fact, I explicitly stated, if you want more aggressive shift down on declaration, the proper way to do it is via the ECT PWR setting for transmission, not S mode
Total lack of understanding in how gasoline engine works, injectors off = stalled car, they will not restart without starter cranking due to the torque converter causing no wheel force to actually crank the engine and in turn alternator and ignition sequence. The GS does not have active cylinder management that shuts off *some* cylinders when under light load. Lean burn direct injection is not at all comparable to "turning off"
...
enough on that.
as for the towing bit... yes I saw that. I am pretty sure the GS can handle a couple of 30lbs bikes on a tralier rack. as for Towing a trailer, it is peculiar that Toyota in N/A does not list a towing capacity for these cars, in other geographies they are listed as 3500 lbs towing (see the techincal data capacities show 1600kg towing ability) and they even add hitches on for you
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs-350/#/Accessories
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs...Specifications
Anyone who thinks a car with this much torque can't tow is off their rocker... or just fiddling with "S" mode a little too much.
I said downshifting to a stop sign. I have a scangauge as well as the mpg computer. All cars with injectors turn the fuel completely off when you let completely off the gas and your rpm is above a certain level. Obviously when you are stopped the injectors are on. If you are going to downshift into third to accelerate you would not have your foot off the gas.
Last edited by sam12345; 03-10-15 at 10:20 PM.
03-10-15, 09:38 PM
#36
Read this
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/hybrid-electric/a5977/coasting-in-neutral-fuel-economy/
Quote
Almost all vehicles show a pulse width of zero when coasting while in gear. Zero, as in there is no fuel injected at all. Yes, the engine is turning over, the pistons are going up and down, the water pump, alternator and a/c compressor are working, so technically you can say the engine is running, sort of. But it's not consuming any fuel. And that goes for automatic or manuals.
Okay, eventually, at the bottom of the hill or as you creep up to the traffic light, the engine finally will slow to idle rpm—at which point the fuel injection will wake up and start adding fuel to keep the engine from stalling. That usually starts at around 1000 rpm, and if you pay attention, you can sense when it's happening as the engine will rev up slightly.
Ect does not change the fact that if you are cruising at 40 mph (at which point you are on your highest gear) and you suddenly floor it you have to go from sixth ( at which point your rpm is probabl 1200) to second gear and around 5000 rpm. If you are in third your rpm will be at 3800 rpm. It takes much less time to accelerate your motor from 3800 rpm to 5000 rpm than from 1200 to 5000 rpm hence less delay. Simple physics. Try it and you will see.
Furthermore it is less of a shock to your drive train. You won't experience the hit you get when shifting from sixth to second so it is easier on your tranny and differential.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/hybrid-electric/a5977/coasting-in-neutral-fuel-economy/
Quote
Almost all vehicles show a pulse width of zero when coasting while in gear. Zero, as in there is no fuel injected at all. Yes, the engine is turning over, the pistons are going up and down, the water pump, alternator and a/c compressor are working, so technically you can say the engine is running, sort of. But it's not consuming any fuel. And that goes for automatic or manuals.
Okay, eventually, at the bottom of the hill or as you creep up to the traffic light, the engine finally will slow to idle rpm—at which point the fuel injection will wake up and start adding fuel to keep the engine from stalling. That usually starts at around 1000 rpm, and if you pay attention, you can sense when it's happening as the engine will rev up slightly.
Ect does not change the fact that if you are cruising at 40 mph (at which point you are on your highest gear) and you suddenly floor it you have to go from sixth ( at which point your rpm is probabl 1200) to second gear and around 5000 rpm. If you are in third your rpm will be at 3800 rpm. It takes much less time to accelerate your motor from 3800 rpm to 5000 rpm than from 1200 to 5000 rpm hence less delay. Simple physics. Try it and you will see.
Furthermore it is less of a shock to your drive train. You won't experience the hit you get when shifting from sixth to second so it is easier on your tranny and differential.
Last edited by sam12345; 03-10-15 at 10:00 PM.
03-10-15, 10:32 PM
#37
https://autos.yahoo.com/news/6-driving-tactics-to-save-gas-this-summer.html
Here's the surprise: There's no trade-off between safety and fuel economy in this case. Leaving the car in gear while coasting downhill actually is more efficient. Why?
Most fuel-injected engines today use computer-controlled Deceleration Fuel Cut Off: When you lift your foot from the gas while leaving the car in gear, injectors shut off automatically, and the car's rotating tires—which are connected to the engine via the transmission—keep the engine turning and the accessories running. So, the engine consumes no fuel at all while the vehicle is coasting downhill.
Here's the surprise: There's no trade-off between safety and fuel economy in this case. Leaving the car in gear while coasting downhill actually is more efficient. Why?
Most fuel-injected engines today use computer-controlled Deceleration Fuel Cut Off: When you lift your foot from the gas while leaving the car in gear, injectors shut off automatically, and the car's rotating tires—which are connected to the engine via the transmission—keep the engine turning and the accessories running. So, the engine consumes no fuel at all while the vehicle is coasting downhill.
03-10-15, 10:45 PM
#38
http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3600/is-engine-braking-harmful
Quote:
Modern electronic (as opposed to mechanical) fuel-injection systems (that also includes TBI (throttle body) single-point injection) are equipped with throttle position sensor. In the event of overrun (higher RPM, closed throttle) fuel input is cut off, thus making it more efficient than coasting in neutral and using brakes alone (one supposed to brake with gears engaged anyway). Fuel kicks in only when engine speed (RPM) approaches to or below the idle speed to maintain it.
Information about fuel cut-off operation can be found in Bosch technical publication “Gasoline Fuel-Injection System K-Jetronic” (PDF, search for multiple occurrences of “overrun”):
Fuel metering is interrupted during trailing throttle [overrun]. Although this expedient saves fuel on downhill stretches, its primary purpose is to guard the catalytic converter against overheating stemming from poor and incomplete combustion (misfiring)
[…]
Cutoff of the fuel supply during overrun operation permits the fuel consumption to be reduced considerably not only when driving downhill but also in town traffic.
Similar data can be found on systems of other manufacturers. Some of them even allow the cut-off parameters to be modified (see adjustment of overrun for SManager software for s300 module for Honda ECUs — good illustration on how this feature works).
Engine Wear
As above suggests, power stroke is eliminated, ergo one of the most demanding energy loads on the engine is gone. In all, given proper care and maintenance, consensus is that engine braking does not add any statistically significant friction wear on the motor itself.
To test this hypothesis I did several searches on the subject via academic databases and Google Scholar (both with and without patents), and I have not found a single paper concerned with increased engine wear, but plenty discussing the methods to increase effectiveness of engine braking, as power of modern engines increased dramatically, and drive-train losses are reduced. As this U.S. Patent 5,146,890 (by Volvo) states (p.1 of “Description”):
When driving in hilly terrain, the wheel brakes should be used as little as possible, primarily for safety reasons. The average speed of the vehicle in hilly terrain is therefore greatly influenced by the available engine braking power, which increases the requirement for a more effective engine brake that will also be capable of reducing wear and tear on the wheel brakes and thereby improve running economy.
Gearbox Wear
Higher RPM by themselves do not mean that gearbox is being pushed beyond its design limitations. Few hills at higher RPM due to engine braking (given smooth transitions when switching) would not cause any more wear than, say, hours on end on the motorway pushing over 120 km/h (75 mph). If mountain roads is your primary area of operation then it would qualify as severe use (just like frequent towing), and would require transmission cooler anyway.'
Quote:
Modern electronic (as opposed to mechanical) fuel-injection systems (that also includes TBI (throttle body) single-point injection) are equipped with throttle position sensor. In the event of overrun (higher RPM, closed throttle) fuel input is cut off, thus making it more efficient than coasting in neutral and using brakes alone (one supposed to brake with gears engaged anyway). Fuel kicks in only when engine speed (RPM) approaches to or below the idle speed to maintain it.
Information about fuel cut-off operation can be found in Bosch technical publication “Gasoline Fuel-Injection System K-Jetronic” (PDF, search for multiple occurrences of “overrun”):
Fuel metering is interrupted during trailing throttle [overrun]. Although this expedient saves fuel on downhill stretches, its primary purpose is to guard the catalytic converter against overheating stemming from poor and incomplete combustion (misfiring)
[…]
Cutoff of the fuel supply during overrun operation permits the fuel consumption to be reduced considerably not only when driving downhill but also in town traffic.
Similar data can be found on systems of other manufacturers. Some of them even allow the cut-off parameters to be modified (see adjustment of overrun for SManager software for s300 module for Honda ECUs — good illustration on how this feature works).
Engine Wear
As above suggests, power stroke is eliminated, ergo one of the most demanding energy loads on the engine is gone. In all, given proper care and maintenance, consensus is that engine braking does not add any statistically significant friction wear on the motor itself.
To test this hypothesis I did several searches on the subject via academic databases and Google Scholar (both with and without patents), and I have not found a single paper concerned with increased engine wear, but plenty discussing the methods to increase effectiveness of engine braking, as power of modern engines increased dramatically, and drive-train losses are reduced. As this U.S. Patent 5,146,890 (by Volvo) states (p.1 of “Description”):
When driving in hilly terrain, the wheel brakes should be used as little as possible, primarily for safety reasons. The average speed of the vehicle in hilly terrain is therefore greatly influenced by the available engine braking power, which increases the requirement for a more effective engine brake that will also be capable of reducing wear and tear on the wheel brakes and thereby improve running economy.
Gearbox Wear
Higher RPM by themselves do not mean that gearbox is being pushed beyond its design limitations. Few hills at higher RPM due to engine braking (given smooth transitions when switching) would not cause any more wear than, say, hours on end on the motorway pushing over 120 km/h (75 mph). If mountain roads is your primary area of operation then it would qualify as severe use (just like frequent towing), and would require transmission cooler anyway.'
03-10-15, 10:46 PM
#39
Pole Position
you are right 3K RPM does nothing, try downshifting to 3rd when on the HWY and tell me if it is at 3K RPM, either it will go higher depending on your HWY speed, or it will beep and ignore you and throw in a higher gear anyway. hence my point remains, manual shifting is useless.
Your point being? that the car knows when to shift down on its own without anyone screwing around with the shift range? As a matter of fact, I explicitly stated, if you want more aggressive shift down on declaration, the proper way to do it is via the ECT PWR setting for transmission, not S mode
Total lack of understanding in how gasoline engine works, injectors off = stalled car, they will not restart without starter cranking due to the torque converter causing no wheel force to actually crank the engine and in turn alternator and ignition sequence. The GS does not have active cylinder management that shuts off *some* cylinders when under light load. Lean burn direct injection is not at all comparable to "turning off"
...
enough on that.
as for the towing bit... yes I saw that. I am pretty sure the GS can handle a couple of 30lbs bikes on a tralier rack. as for Towing a trailer, it is peculiar that Toyota in N/A does not list a towing capacity for these cars, in other geographies they are listed as 3500 lbs towing (see the techincal data capacities show 1600kg towing ability) and they even add hitches on for you
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs-350/#/Accessories
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs...Specifications
Anyone who thinks a car with this much torque can't tow is off their rocker... or just fiddling with "S" mode a little too much.
Your point being? that the car knows when to shift down on its own without anyone screwing around with the shift range? As a matter of fact, I explicitly stated, if you want more aggressive shift down on declaration, the proper way to do it is via the ECT PWR setting for transmission, not S mode
Total lack of understanding in how gasoline engine works, injectors off = stalled car, they will not restart without starter cranking due to the torque converter causing no wheel force to actually crank the engine and in turn alternator and ignition sequence. The GS does not have active cylinder management that shuts off *some* cylinders when under light load. Lean burn direct injection is not at all comparable to "turning off"
...
enough on that.
as for the towing bit... yes I saw that. I am pretty sure the GS can handle a couple of 30lbs bikes on a tralier rack. as for Towing a trailer, it is peculiar that Toyota in N/A does not list a towing capacity for these cars, in other geographies they are listed as 3500 lbs towing (see the techincal data capacities show 1600kg towing ability) and they even add hitches on for you
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs-350/#/Accessories
http://www.lexus.eu/car-models/gs/gs...Specifications
Anyone who thinks a car with this much torque can't tow is off their rocker... or just fiddling with "S" mode a little too much.
Sir, please post pic's of your next camping trip. You know...the one where you'll be towing that camper with your GS
03-10-15, 10:56 PM
#40
https://autos.yahoo.com/news/6-driving-tactics-to-save-gas-this-summer.html
Here's the surprise: There's no trade-off between safety and fuel economy in this case. Leaving the car in gear while coasting downhill actually is more efficient. Why?
Most fuel-injected engines today use computer-controlled Deceleration Fuel Cut Off: When you lift your foot from the gas while leaving the car in gear, injectors shut off automatically, and the car's rotating tires—which are connected to the engine via the transmission—keep the engine turning and the accessories running. So, the engine consumes no fuel at all while the vehicle is coasting downhill.
Here's the surprise: There's no trade-off between safety and fuel economy in this case. Leaving the car in gear while coasting downhill actually is more efficient. Why?
Most fuel-injected engines today use computer-controlled Deceleration Fuel Cut Off: When you lift your foot from the gas while leaving the car in gear, injectors shut off automatically, and the car's rotating tires—which are connected to the engine via the transmission—keep the engine turning and the accessories running. So, the engine consumes no fuel at all while the vehicle is coasting downhill.
The point here was about the use of S mode.and even if your injectors are off, and your engine is coasting, by forcing a lower range you are causing more rotational (due to gear ratio reduction) force back up through the wheels through the transmission and back to the torque converter, where the difference in fluid rotation between the input turbine (engine side) and output turbine (transmission side) is giving you the the feeling of "brake force", this is not at all comparable to the mechanical coupling of the engine flywheel and transmission via a dry clutch.
I am happy you have had no issues, but clearly you time your downshifts at the 3K rpm range, so for me, I think changing brakes is cheaper than changing transmissions by forcing some stupid ratios via "S" mode.
03-10-15, 11:04 PM
#41
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...t-be-done.html
To be honest, the trailer consideration seems more to be about braking ( you want the trailer to have its own brakes and not push on the car ) and my personal experience is on on steep decline driveways it bottoms out since the car is so low. (nothing to do with S mode still though)
03-10-15, 11:14 PM
#43
I think we are arguing on a nuance... better yet i stand corrected so that you can rest at night. You are right that fuel injection is closed off until the engine reaches idle speed, relying on the momentum to provide air flow for re-ignition. That works fine and dandy through each downshift/slowdown sequence, regardless if you let the car do it or force it via S mode.
The point here was about the use of S mode.and even if your injectors are off, and your engine is coasting, by forcing a lower range you are causing more rotational (due to gear ratio reduction) force back up through the wheels through the transmission and back to the torque converter, where the difference in fluid rotation between the input turbine (engine side) and output turbine (transmission side) is giving you the the feeling of "brake force", this is not at all comparable to the mechanical coupling of the engine flywheel and transmission via a dry clutch.
I am happy you have had no issues, but clearly you time your downshifts at the 3K rpm range, so for me, I think changing brakes is cheaper than changing transmissions by forcing some stupid ratios via "S" mode.
The point here was about the use of S mode.and even if your injectors are off, and your engine is coasting, by forcing a lower range you are causing more rotational (due to gear ratio reduction) force back up through the wheels through the transmission and back to the torque converter, where the difference in fluid rotation between the input turbine (engine side) and output turbine (transmission side) is giving you the the feeling of "brake force", this is not at all comparable to the mechanical coupling of the engine flywheel and transmission via a dry clutch.
I am happy you have had no issues, but clearly you time your downshifts at the 3K rpm range, so for me, I think changing brakes is cheaper than changing transmissions by forcing some stupid ratios via "S" mode.
03-11-15, 11:28 AM
#44
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If you put your manual shifter in your highest gear it is the same as putting it in drive. The advantage is you are ready to downshift manually.
If you downshift when going to a stop and use engine braking you increase your gas mileage. Look at you instant mpg you can see it going way up when using engine braking because
when your engine is above certain rpm and your feet is off the gas the fuel injectors shut off.
If you downshift when going to a stop and use engine braking you increase your gas mileage. Look at you instant mpg you can see it going way up when using engine braking because
when your engine is above certain rpm and your feet is off the gas the fuel injectors shut off.
I have tried to drive under 2k rmp and when coasting between blocks, I shift to the last gear to give it a smooth coasting speed but am still experimenting with it. Any other ideas to increase mpg? Thanks.
03-11-15, 09:36 PM
#45
But if you constantly engine break wouldn't you wear off the mounts faster than usual? Interesting approach to increasing gas mileage though. My 07 gs350 is doing 15 mpg on the city and about 18 mpg on the freeway. I just serviced it for the 100K mile service too. My only concern is that I have 22" wheels and maybe that is using up more fuel.
I have tried to drive under 2k rmp and when coasting between blocks, I shift to the last gear to give it a smooth coasting speed but am still experimenting with it. Any other ideas to increase mpg? Thanks.
I have tried to drive under 2k rmp and when coasting between blocks, I shift to the last gear to give it a smooth coasting speed but am still experimenting with it. Any other ideas to increase mpg? Thanks.