horn, drl birghts do not work after vled bulbs
#1
Driver
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horn, drl birghts do not work after vled bulbs
hi guys, I am new to this site due to i just got my 3rd gen gs300, i love the car and began to upgrade it with the lights to leds, i changed the drls/brights to vleds bulb with the drl module but it kept burning out the fuse so i tried a higher fuse and now the horn nor the drl/ brights will work. The fuses are all good i even bought a new MULTIPLEX NETWORK BODY COMPUTER but it still doesnt work. I attached the picture of this module. Has anyone have had this issue? I do not think it could be the harness. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
#3
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I've got a 2010 GS350. I too just recently purchased the V-LED DRL Module and had the same problem. Either it would blow my DRL L-Beam Fuse (15A) on start up or even if I got past that once I flicked the H-Beam it would blow the H-BM (25A) Fuse. One of the DRL Module stopped working completely. I contacted V-Leds about this but their response was slow and they said they couldn't duplicate it on their end. So they offered a refund, but they haven't responded on how to get the refund back.
If someone from V-Leds can chime in that would be great! This needs to be cleared up for existing members and future customers.
I'm going to stick with the flickering LED's for now until someone can prove their product really does work without blowing fuses.
As for your problem, have you looked at your H-BM (25A) fuse?
Take care,
Joe Ski
If someone from V-Leds can chime in that would be great! This needs to be cleared up for existing members and future customers.
I'm going to stick with the flickering LED's for now until someone can prove their product really does work without blowing fuses.
As for your problem, have you looked at your H-BM (25A) fuse?
Take care,
Joe Ski
#4
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If you guys are blowing fuses, check the connections. We offer a similar setup and the number one reason why fuses get blown when changing out the DRL/High Beams to LED is that the customer reverse the polarity (negative to positive etc). I'm not entirely sure what their setup is like compared to ours, but I'm just offering suggestions on what could be causing that.
Also, a quick for you guys. Never replace a fuse with a higher amperage than designed. Fuses are the electrical system's weakest link and is designed to fail upon a surge, by increasing the amperage, you are making the weakest link stronger which could possibly damage other systems on the vehicle.
1. Check the bulbs, do they work?
2. Check ALL THE FUSES, there are two fuse boxes, one inside the car and one in the engine bay. Check all of them.
Also, a quick for you guys. Never replace a fuse with a higher amperage than designed. Fuses are the electrical system's weakest link and is designed to fail upon a surge, by increasing the amperage, you are making the weakest link stronger which could possibly damage other systems on the vehicle.
1. Check the bulbs, do they work?
2. Check ALL THE FUSES, there are two fuse boxes, one inside the car and one in the engine bay. Check all of them.
#7
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I had the same problem with that kit. its the resistors that's causing the fuse to pop. my horn and high beams stopped working when i put in a higher amp fuse. took the car to the dealer and they replaced a fuse inside the car. hope that helps. you can run the drl bulbs without the resistors, they work but are dimmer.
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#8
Driver
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Thanks guys, I have checked the fuse except the 25a. I have seen some is250'a driving around without the flickering if I get this resolved I may just go back to standard bulb this seems like to much trouble.
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Posting a follow up. I had the same problems blowing fuse, not as bad as the Horn not working but this is what I did. I had the V-LEDS Module, we'll that was the problem. Then I ordered the iJDMtoys DRL/HID Module. This has fixed the blowing fuse problem. The reason being and if anyone can back me up on this is the iJDM unit is larger than the V-LEDS unit. I'm guessing the iJDM Module has Larger Capacitor(s) and and or a bigger Coil inside of it. You can tell because the ON/OFF time for the iJDM unit is slower than the V-LEDS unit meaning the iJDM units charge and discharge slower because they are larger capacitors vs the smaller ones in the V-LEDS which charge and discharge faster. I think the Current spike using the smaller Capacitors is causing the AMPS to spike thus blowing the Fuses. This is all speculation?
But my iJDM Module has been working for the past couple of days now with no problems.
Later guys,
But my iJDM Module has been working for the past couple of days now with no problems.
Later guys,
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
joeski77, thats awesome to hear glad u are having luck with that. I may have to just take my car into lexus to get my horn and high beam fixed at the cost of 100 bucks for diagnostic.
#12
Former Sponsor
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Posting a follow up. I had the same problems blowing fuse, not as bad as the Horn not working but this is what I did. I had the V-LEDS Module, we'll that was the problem. Then I ordered the iJDMtoys DRL/HID Module. This has fixed the blowing fuse problem. The reason being and if anyone can back me up on this is the iJDM unit is larger than the V-LEDS unit. I'm guessing the iJDM Module has Larger Capacitor(s) and and or a bigger Coil inside of it. You can tell because the ON/OFF time for the iJDM unit is slower than the V-LEDS unit meaning the iJDM units charge and discharge slower because they are larger capacitors vs the smaller ones in the V-LEDS which charge and discharge faster. I think the Current spike using the smaller Capacitors is causing the AMPS to spike thus blowing the Fuses. This is all speculation?
But my iJDM Module has been working for the past couple of days now with no problems.
Later guys,
But my iJDM Module has been working for the past couple of days now with no problems.
Later guys,
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