01-09-15, 12:24 PM
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2007 GS350 Rear Brake Caliper - Lexus wont help
06-08-12, 10:03 AM
#18
If you saw just how easy it was to rebuild a caliper, you'll kick yourself for not just buying a rebuild kit.
That said, I would just go the route of remanufactured calipers. Much cheaper than getting a new set. Make sure you have some do the install that knows how to properly bleed the lines in this car, though!
That said, I would just go the route of remanufactured calipers. Much cheaper than getting a new set. Make sure you have some do the install that knows how to properly bleed the lines in this car, though!
11-25-12, 09:12 PM
#20
It's the slide pins, at least it was on mine. You don't need to replace the calipers. I went through this when I replaced the back pads on my 07 AWD.
I just soaked the heck out of mine with Kroil and it worked beautifully. Nobody that works on a car should be without a few cans of Kroil.
Once I had them off its just a matter of cleaning things up and lubing the slide pins.
$1,700? Lol. Try $60 or so for pads. I've found that Lexus dealer repair prices make Jaguar, BMW, etc look free.
I just soaked the heck out of mine with Kroil and it worked beautifully. Nobody that works on a car should be without a few cans of Kroil.
Once I had them off its just a matter of cleaning things up and lubing the slide pins.
$1,700? Lol. Try $60 or so for pads. I've found that Lexus dealer repair prices make Jaguar, BMW, etc look free.
11-26-12, 07:01 AM
#22
Lead Lap
Had same issue w/ driver side rear caliper on my '07 (passenger side was replaced 2yrs ago under warranty). Frozen obviously w/ assistance of all the salt, etc. generously thrown down on roads here in northeast.
Anyhow, just cut off the rubber boot and as rld said, soak it for a few days, even up to a week, w/ penetrating oil (PB Blaster is my choice b/c it's always in my garage but Kroil is good too). Once free, clean all corrosion from the pin and cavity then re-lube and replace boot (less than $3 ea from local Toyota dealer).
Good luck
Anyhow, just cut off the rubber boot and as rld said, soak it for a few days, even up to a week, w/ penetrating oil (PB Blaster is my choice b/c it's always in my garage but Kroil is good too). Once free, clean all corrosion from the pin and cavity then re-lube and replace boot (less than $3 ea from local Toyota dealer).
Good luck
11-26-12, 09:02 PM
#24
Kroil is only available online. It's WAY WAY WAY better than PB Blaster, more $$ but worth it. It's designed to unstick rusty stuff. Nasty caliper slide bolts on a 5 year old Lexus are nothing for the stuff, I use it to unstick fasteners that are rusted solid on cars dating to pre WW2. I just used it on my 60 Lincoln, the screws holding the headlamp surround were seized, one of the original 52 year old headlamps was burned out. It took overnight to soak rusty machine thread screws and they came right out.
I sprayed the heck out of mine, went inside, made lunch, came out, it popped loose. Worst case, MAYBE overnight but it shouldn't take a week.
I sprayed the heck out of mine, went inside, made lunch, came out, it popped loose. Worst case, MAYBE overnight but it shouldn't take a week.
11-27-12, 01:21 PM
#25
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11-27-12, 02:17 PM
#26
You do not need new calipers! The trick is to get the caliper to break loose the frozen pin. It is easier to take the caliper off the car and mount on a vice. But this can be done with the mount still on the car.
Spray lube into the frozen pin let it soak, and try to budge it. Go back and forth with the caliper till it breaks free. The slide the caliper off the pin, clean with mild steel wool or fine sand paper. Grease the pin and the caliper, and she's good as new.
BTW most local auto parts stores sell just the pin, but that isnt really needed if you clean it properly. Goodluck!
Spray lube into the frozen pin let it soak, and try to budge it. Go back and forth with the caliper till it breaks free. The slide the caliper off the pin, clean with mild steel wool or fine sand paper. Grease the pin and the caliper, and she's good as new.
BTW most local auto parts stores sell just the pin, but that isnt really needed if you clean it properly. Goodluck!
03-10-13, 06:42 PM
#27
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Does anyone know if the caliper mounting bracket is included in the kit? The bottom pin seized and snapped so there is a piece stuck in the bracket as well as stuck in the caliper. I had the SC 9LB done in 4-09 but i doubt they will cover the repair. Also did you guys go ahead and replace both sides or just the broken one??
03-10-13, 08:05 PM
#28
Does anyone know if the caliper mounting bracket is included in the kit? The bottom pin seized and snapped so there is a piece stuck in the bracket as well as stuck in the caliper. I had the SC 9LB done in 4-09 but i doubt they will cover the repair. Also did you guys go ahead and replace both sides or just the broken one??
How did you break the pin? If the bracket moves freely that just means the screw on the pin loosened up.
I have done more then a few seized calipers. Easiest way for me just take off the caliper from the car, put a propane torch and let it sit and just heat the pin, it may take a few mins of heat but it will loosen up. Then I take a hammer and drive the pin even deeper into the bracket just to help break it loose. Once you get it to break loose it should just slide off, if not use a hammer and tap the bracket out.
Most auto parts store carry just the pin and they are pretty cheap fyi
03-11-13, 05:51 PM
#29
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I took off the caliper and see the seized end in the caliper and the remaining piece still in the bracket. Plus i can clearly see where it broke in two. I just went ahead and ordered 2 calipers with new mounting brackets from Rock auto at a decent price. Id post a picture but i don,t have a hosting site
03-26-13, 06:54 PM
#30
I just went through the same thing this weekend. I went to change out my rear pads and found both calipers stuck in the bottom slide pin. They would not budge at all. I applied heat to one of them and still no luck so I gave up on saving them and ordered a remanufactured pair from a WBR distributor for $80 each. They are very high quality and came with the brackets, all hardware and were ready to mount and load with pads.
Replacing the calipers is a very easy job, but unless you have a power or reverse bleeder, bleeding the brakes is an entirely different story. I only have a small hand operated vacuum bleeder and it was very difficult to get all of the air out of the lines with it. I chose this route over the traditional buddy hit the brake pedal method because of all of the stories of throwing codes.
I did see a good trick of using a zip lock bag between the cap and fluid to create a vacuum so that all of the fluid stays put in the master cylinder while disconnecting the brake lines from the caliper and it worked perfectly. I am either going to invest in a power bleeder or take my car to have the brakes bled and completely new fluid put in the entire system. Proper hydraulic pressure is way too important for safety reasons and the overall cost of replacing brake components is too expensive to chance an improper bleed.
Overall, it cost me $170 for 2 calipers, $7 for a bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid, two trips to the parts store, time, aggravation and some foul language. If you want to save yourself some time if you are going to DIY this, just get the calipers ordered and take the old ones off. I was totally unaware that the rear calipers were in this condition so before your rear brakes need replaced, please check them so that you are prepared. My car came from Toledo, Ohio so I think that the first couple of years of it's life, the harsh winters took it's toll on the the brakes.
I have never had to replace calipers on any car that I have owned, but at 95,000 miles I can't complain as this is one of the few things that have failed. I am going to take care of replacing the water pump, coolant, transmission and differential fluid in a month or two, and I hope to get another 95,000 miles out of it.
Replacing the calipers is a very easy job, but unless you have a power or reverse bleeder, bleeding the brakes is an entirely different story. I only have a small hand operated vacuum bleeder and it was very difficult to get all of the air out of the lines with it. I chose this route over the traditional buddy hit the brake pedal method because of all of the stories of throwing codes.
I did see a good trick of using a zip lock bag between the cap and fluid to create a vacuum so that all of the fluid stays put in the master cylinder while disconnecting the brake lines from the caliper and it worked perfectly. I am either going to invest in a power bleeder or take my car to have the brakes bled and completely new fluid put in the entire system. Proper hydraulic pressure is way too important for safety reasons and the overall cost of replacing brake components is too expensive to chance an improper bleed.
Overall, it cost me $170 for 2 calipers, $7 for a bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid, two trips to the parts store, time, aggravation and some foul language. If you want to save yourself some time if you are going to DIY this, just get the calipers ordered and take the old ones off. I was totally unaware that the rear calipers were in this condition so before your rear brakes need replaced, please check them so that you are prepared. My car came from Toledo, Ohio so I think that the first couple of years of it's life, the harsh winters took it's toll on the the brakes.
I have never had to replace calipers on any car that I have owned, but at 95,000 miles I can't complain as this is one of the few things that have failed. I am going to take care of replacing the water pump, coolant, transmission and differential fluid in a month or two, and I hope to get another 95,000 miles out of it.