***DIY: Wheels stud replacement (with pics)***
05-27-12, 11:47 AM
#1
***DIY: Wheels stud replacement (with pics)***
A few weeks ago when changing my front pads, I broke a wheel stud. My torque wrench was acting up and I over-tightened one of my lugs and 'pop' stud broke right off. While I was at the Lexus dealer getting a recall done, I inquired about the cost to replace - they wanted $150 
I thought this was laughable. Other basic tire/wheel shops wanted at least $50 to do the job. As I do most work myself, I figured this is something I could easily tackle. Total cost was ~$5.00 and 5lbs of water weight as it was 95 degrees! Below is my experience in doing this. I would rate it on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult probably a 3.
Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice.*I will not be held responsible for any injury due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this*DIY project.
Here we go:
Remove negative battery cable as well as the cap to brake fluid reservoir
Loosen lug nuts before jacking the car. Broken stud is at the 3 o’clock position
Jack the vehicle at the frame and place the jack stand at the grooves (pics below)
You can see the broken stud in the picture below. Remove brake caliper (in another DIY thread) – two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper. Now hang the caliper with a zip tie to the spring. Do not let it dangle by the brake line.
Remove rotor – should come right off. Here you can clearly see the broken stud.
Take a hammer and knock out the old stud from the front it should pop right out the back.
Here you can see the old vs. new
I purchased a set of 5 Wagner studs (BD60956) from Amazon.com. They were $5.00
Insert new stud. Place a washer between the new hub and lug nuts. Here you are going to need to use an air wrench to drive the lug nut onto the new stud to pull it into position and seat it into the hub. Without an air wrench you cannot prevent the hub from spinning. The washer protects the lug nut and hub from chewing each other up.
Finished product.
Reverse the steps earlier and reinstall everything to spec.
There you go! I also put these steps into a PDF. Good luck!
I thought this was laughable. Other basic tire/wheel shops wanted at least $50 to do the job. As I do most work myself, I figured this is something I could easily tackle. Total cost was ~$5.00 and 5lbs of water weight as it was 95 degrees! Below is my experience in doing this. I would rate it on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult probably a 3.Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice.*I will not be held responsible for any injury due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this*DIY project.
Here we go:
Remove negative battery cable as well as the cap to brake fluid reservoir
Loosen lug nuts before jacking the car. Broken stud is at the 3 o’clock position
Jack the vehicle at the frame and place the jack stand at the grooves (pics below)
You can see the broken stud in the picture below. Remove brake caliper (in another DIY thread) – two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper. Now hang the caliper with a zip tie to the spring. Do not let it dangle by the brake line.
Remove rotor – should come right off. Here you can clearly see the broken stud.
Take a hammer and knock out the old stud from the front it should pop right out the back.
Here you can see the old vs. new
I purchased a set of 5 Wagner studs (BD60956) from Amazon.com. They were $5.00
Insert new stud. Place a washer between the new hub and lug nuts. Here you are going to need to use an air wrench to drive the lug nut onto the new stud to pull it into position and seat it into the hub. Without an air wrench you cannot prevent the hub from spinning. The washer protects the lug nut and hub from chewing each other up.
Finished product.
Reverse the steps earlier and reinstall everything to spec.
There you go! I also put these steps into a PDF. Good luck!
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BaOsGS300 (10-19-23)
05-27-12, 10:10 PM
#4
Great question. When brake fluid moves in the opposite direction it will throw codes. This is discussed it other threads related to changing brake pads. You should remove neg cable because you need to compress piston to remove caliper. It prevents the codes. Whenever you compress piston you should remove reservoir cap.
05-27-12, 10:38 PM
#5
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Any chance you can post the link about disconnecting the battery when doing a brake job? I searched but there's a crap load of threads about changing brakes.
My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
05-27-12, 10:57 PM
#6
Any chance you can post the link about disconnecting the battery when doing a brake job? I searched but there's a crap load of threads about changing brakes.
My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
Last edited by alchemist; 05-27-12 at 11:18 PM.
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05-27-12, 11:02 PM
#8
Any chance you can post the link about disconnecting the battery when doing a brake job? I searched but there's a crap load of threads about changing brakes.
My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-pads-but.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ease-help.html
Last edited by alchemist; 05-27-12 at 11:15 PM.
03-22-15, 05:29 PM
#14
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Nice writeup, thanks. I assume there is an electronic brake sensor that requires pulling the battery cable? I always open the brake bleed when pushing the calipers in, phobia about pushing brake fluid backwards in the system.
I need to replace a rear stud, it looks like a little more challenge with the drum parking brake inside the disk brake. Anyone have any experience with a rear wheel stud?
Mine is an '07 GS350 awd.
I need to replace a rear stud, it looks like a little more challenge with the drum parking brake inside the disk brake. Anyone have any experience with a rear wheel stud?
Mine is an '07 GS350 awd.
03-22-15, 09:08 PM
#15
Good write up! I've broken a stud before was a pain in the *** to fit! Though i just used a power drill to do this... How do you like those front calipers? I have the same ones and not sure if theyre giving me problems with pedal being soft.... I've recently changed out my rears because they were seizing... theyre still seizing but im about to put anti seize, also paint them! Cant forget to paint the front ones too.