helpmeout1

I have a 2007 GS350 rear wheel drive, and under light braking the front wheels completely lock up while the rear wheels continue to push the car forward. If you shift the car to neutral, while the car is in the slide, the car stops immediately. If you cram down the brakes as hard as you can, while the car is in the slide, the ABS kicks in and the car stops. It generally occurs when the car is cold, the idle RPM is high, and the tires/road are/is wet or snow packed. It does not happen all the time, has only occurred about 4-5 times in 2 years, and is difficult to duplicate and demonstrate to the dealer. It has only happened while attempting to come to a gradual stop at an intersection, or while slowly pulling into my garage. The dealer states that this is just a characteristic of a rear wheel drive vehicle, and that I need to apply more brake pressure. How much brake pressure do you need to apply while pulling your car into your garage, with a dry floor that is NOT painted, around 1MPH? This is my 4th rear wheel drive vehicle, and my 2001 GS 430 didn't have this problem and neither did the other 2 rear wheel drive vehicles. The dealer told me that the 2001 GS430 had a hydraulic brake system and that my 2007 GS350 has an electronic brake system. Is it a flaw that an electronic brake system allows the front wheels to completely lock up while the rear tires spin? Has anyone else experienced this, or is my 2007 GS350 the only one doing this?

dwiall

I just posted about my brake system (You Have Got to Be Kidding). I experienced a similar thing a couple of times and it turned out to be that my boots were too big and I was pressing the brake and part of my boot was on the gas. Scared the **** out of me at the stop sign. The harder I pushed the brake the faste the car wanted to go, very scary whent there weere cars coming. just thought I would pass that on to you, who knows, you might be doing the same thing.

GS350Lexus

iTrader: (5)

also keep in mind that front brakes are like 80% stopping power while rear do very minor of braking. Also keep in mind that lexus stays at cold idle until its up to normal operating temperature. Its hard for ,e to get used to kt myself because idle stays at 1000 rmp which does require more force on brake pedal. Check if it does that when idle is normal? Also i have a friend who had a ls400 and he told me that's how lexus is. So u gonna have to get used to it. What i usually do coming to a light while the car is still warming up n high on idle i throw it in neutral position. If all above mentioned is not the cause check ure brake pads it also might be that u have air in ure braking system that prevents same force on every corner of brake

ming15237

iTrader: (3)

Holy CRAP BATMAN!!! There is a FREE spell checker on this page when you post! Please use it! Now onto the OP's question. Yes this is normal for a Toyota vehicle to do, I have done MANY accident reconstructions that were based on this very same complaint. The problem is that the vehicle is on "high" idle in an attempt to warm the engine (more so the catalytic converters) faster. The problem is that the rear tires are over powering the breaking force available to the front tires and are thereby PUSHING the front tires. The only thing you can do to prevent this is allow the car to warm up so that the high idle has slowed to normal idle speed. Or shift to neutral, which is a real pain, but better than the alternative!

Yang1815

iTrader: (1)

I didn't even finish reading the first sentence.

ming15237

iTrader: (3)

I have (against my better judgment of course ) written some pretty awful pieces while under the influence of my friend "Tito's Handmade", but I can say, I have NEVER written anything with THAT many errors in it. When someone is asking for "advice" and one feels compelled to give it to them, it is best NOT to come across as the "Guy" the "Village" has been looking for since he went to the White House.

helpmeout1

I can emulate the situation on slick roads using extremely light braking, but cannot say that I have been able to completely duplicate the situation. The few instances I have encountered have been a drastic change from the car's normal behavior. For example, I have pulled into the garage with completely snow packed tires, at a high idle RPM, without any problems at all. This problem seems to be very intermittent.

I will be shifting to neutral from now on (what a pain!), and agree that this is better than the alternative.

Thanks for the feedback so far!

Yang1815

iTrader: (1)

Still amazes me how people choose not to warm up their cars in freezing temperature. Just get in, start it, and go. Really?!

helpmeout1

Did I mention that I start it in drive so I can just go immediately? Why so negative, Yang? Gosh. Some peoples’ kids!

I let it warm up about 2 min before driving a whole 3 miles to and from work. It is not going to get completely warmed up in that scenario.

helpmeout1

My issue is starting to sound a lot like what is going on with the Prius.

kronlin

Exact same problem reported in this thread.

http://my.is/forums/f126/my-is350-fu...l-stop-379326/

Is there any way we can raise this issue with Toyota?

helpmeout1

Vehicle or Dealership Experience: 1-800-255-3987 (Option 3)

BinaryJay

Everybody does this but me, I see people get into their BMW SUV in the parking garage and 1 second later are racing off full throttle through the garage even though it's five below.

I at least give it 60 seconds or so for things to get circulating and then take it easy until some heat starts registering on the dash. I don't think people realize that flooring it on a cold engine is doing any harm, their car is just like their DVD player... has an ON button and then it's ready for anything.

Yang1815

iTrader: (1)

You need to time your warm up next time. A full two minutes will not give you high idle RPM.

Me too.

helpmeout1

[QUOTE=Yang1815;5210181]You need to time your warm up next time. A full two minutes will not give you high idle RPM.

Why didn’t my 01 GS430 have this same problem? I am guessing it is because it had a hydraulic brake system that WORKED, and not some flawed electronic brake system that needs software updates to work correctly (just like a Blu-Ray player that takes several minutes to turn on, and always needs a software update to play the latest movie you just rented).

I do agree BinaryJay, and do not romp on the gas pedal until the car is fully warmed up.

It can take up to 5-10 minutes for my idle to drop to a consistent 1k or less.