4080 Enclosure + DIY Install!! 56K No-No

[CsKWarEd]

To start this whole thing off I want to say thanks to Ainslie and the rest of the 4080 crew, for all of the help and the quality work invested in to this product! This is truly an awesome box with a real Lexus OEM feel to it. On top of that, I still have room in my trunk for all my stuff with no problem. The easy design lets me pop the enclosure out in seconds if I ever need to get to my spare! I’ve got just the base GS3 package, no ML package, so I was really looking to get some low bass in the trunk. This is a low crisp bump with no distortion that I can hear. We did the whole thing in just a couple of hours, without any gotcha’s at all. We thought that it was pretty painless so we decided to do a DIY so you can see how simple it really is. I was having some camera issues the first couple of shots, so they’re blueish. Sorry…

First remove the factory engine cover on the passenger side. The engine cover is held in place by small plastic fastners. To remove the fastener, simply push in the center pin and remove.


Now, remove the battery. Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the + and – terminals. You will need a 12mm wrench to remove the battery bracket.


The plastic battery shield has two plastic wire loops that are kinda hard to un-hook. You will need a short flat head screw driver pry open the hooks




Next you will need to remove the plastic panel that is under the passenger side dash. The panel can be removed without tools. Simply pull down on each corner and un-snap the panel fastners.

You will need a wire coat hanger to puncture the rubber grommet. This will allow you to push the amps power wire through the rubber grommet. I cut a small hole in the grommet to make it easier. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CUT ANY OF THE FACTORY WIRES.


Next I taped the power wire to the coat hanger.


Push the coat hanger through the cut you made in the rubber grommet. It should push through fairly easy. You can spray the end of the wire with armor all to make it push through easier.



Pull the red power wire though the rubber grommet and leave approx. 2ft. in the engine bay.


Seal the hole around the power wire using clear silicone.

[CsKWarEd]

Next, you will need to connect the amp turn-on wire. I could not find a switch 12V wire at the factory amp so I tapped into the cigarette fuse located in the fuse box. The fuse box is under the passenger side dash. Remove 10amp blue fuse labeled CIG. Strip back about ¼” of the insulation and wrap the copper wire around the end of the fuse and push it back into the fuse box.


Remove front and rear the side sill panels. The panels are only held by a few clips. You can remove the panels by pulling up on the ends.


Now you can run the power and turn-on wires down the side sill panels. The factory white clips un-snap and provide a perfect wire holder. Run the both wires to the back seat.



Remove the black plastic panel next to the back seat. This panel pops off just like the side sill plates. Pull the side of the rear seat forward to reveal a 2” port hole to the trunk. You will run the power and turn-on wire through this hole and into the trunk.



Remove the black plastic clips and fasteners that hold the rear deck panel.




This will reveal the factory sub and allow you to see your power and turn-on wire you pushed through the 2” hole.



You will need a signal step down converter to convert the high level speaker signal to low level RCA signal. To do this I used a PAC SNI-15 step down. Crappy pic!

[CsKWarEd]

The factory sub is a dual voice coil. I cut all 4 wires that connect to the sub and lengthened them using some 4 conductor speaker wire. The black and white wires are the positive leads.



Connect the step-down to the 4-conductor wire you extended.



I opted to use the end of a bolt in the rear deck to secure the ground wire. First, scrape away the paint around the bolt to reveal bare metal. Then use a 1/4 “ nut to secure the ground.



Remove the plastic access panel located on the driver side trunk panel. This is where you will run your speaker wire through to your 4080enclosure. Run the speaker wire up to your amp.


Using 1” and 2” screws, mount the amp under the rear deck. Make sure you know exactly what you are screwing into. You do not want the screws to penetrate the metal more than ¼”.


Connect the ground, power, turn-on, speaker wire and RCA’s to the amp.


Connect the speaker wire to the 4080enclosure and push the box in place.

[memasterac]

Originally Posted by CsKWarEd

......This is where you will run your speaker wire through to your 4080enclosure. Run the speaker wire up to your amp.


Connect the ground, power, turn-on, speaker wire and RCA’s to the amp.


Connect the speaker wire to the 4080enclosure and push the box in place.

My question to the installation guide is at right above, where it mentions "speaker wire" many times.

Where do you locate the speaker wires? I assume you need to run the "speaker wire" from the amp to the sub, right? And we buy this speaker wires separately? Also the 4 OEM sub-wire was cut and connected to the step-down, I assume you plug the RCA end into the amp and find a place to hide it?

Sorry for the ignorant questions. It should provide some helps for people installing a sub for the first time. Thanks.

[4080]

Originally Posted by memasterac

My question to the installation guide is at right above, where it mentions "speaker wire" many times.

Where do you locate the speaker wires? I assume you need to run the "speaker wire" from the amp to the sub, right? And we buy this speaker wires separately? Also the 4 OEM sub-wire was cut and connected to the step-down, I assume you plug the RCA end into the amp and find a place to hide it?

Sorry for the ignorant questions. It should provide some helps for people installing a sub for the first time. Thanks.

Yes, you will need to run a speaker wire from the amp to the sub. You can easily hide the wire behind the plastic trunk panels. You will need to buy the speaker wire separately. I rotated the attached picture to show where the speaker wire willl need to exit. It was originally upside down.

You will need to plug the RCA's into the RCA end of the stepdown and the other end into the amp.

I hid the stepdown behind the passenger side trunk panel close to where i ran the wires through the 2" metal hole.

Thanks, 4080

[CsKWarEd]

Pull up the rubber weather stripping that is above the box and push back over the 4080enclosure bracket. This will hold the box in place without the use of screws.




Connect the power wire to the + terminal using the factory 13mm nut.

Ensure that the crossover on the amp is set to LP or low-pass. Set the cross-over to 80-100hz. Set the gain to ½ and turn on the radio.

Make sure you can turn up the volume on the radio without introducing distortion from the sub.


The 4080enclsosure takes up very little room…you can still put your golf clubs in your trunk!





You can still use the cargo net with the 4080enclosure


Install the battery back into the car.

Ainslie, the 4080 rep will have to answer some of the techy questions for me, but I’m sure he’ll see this thread. Again, thanks to 4080 for helping me out with this install!

C²

[Batmobile]

nice...just what i needed

[Mesca]

Looks great!

[The Godfather]

pinche carnitas, that looks nice!!!! So from what I can tell, you don't have the ML, is that correct? How does it sound?? I see that you got your ski trap open, is that to make it louder inside the cabin? Again, how does it sound?

I wonder if 4080 could make the same thing for the right side.... It'd be nice to run two subs

[Seize]

That looks great! Thanks for sharing the whole process with pictures

[LEXUS_KID]

Nice write up !!!

[CsKWarEd]

Originally Posted by The Godfather

pinche carnitas, that looks nice!!!! So from what I can tell, you don't have the ML, is that correct? How does it sound?? I see that you got your ski trap open, is that to make it louder inside the cabin? Again, how does it sound?

I wonder if 4080 could make the same thing for the right side.... It'd be nice to run two subs

That is correct, I DO NOT have the ML package. It sounds amazing! We were taking pictures through the ski door, that's why it was open. However we did test it with it open and closed to see if there was much difference. I can't tell a huge difference with the hatch open, but I'm going to leave it open for a couple of days this week then close for a few days to test that. We'll have to see what 4080 does, as far as a passenger side enclosure. I know after popular demand in the G35 they started making both sides. Maybe Ainslie can touch on that when he see's this thread.

Thanks

C²

[4080]

Originally Posted by CsKWarEd

That is correct, I DO NOT have the ML package. It sounds amazing! We were taking pictures through the ski door, that's why it was open. However we did test it with it open and closed to see if there was much difference. I can't tell a huge difference with the hatch open, but I'm going to leave it open for a couple of days this week then close for a few days to test that. We'll have to see what 4080 does, as far as a passenger side enclosure. I know after popular demand in the G35 they started making both sides. Maybe Ainslie can touch on that when he see's this thread.

Thanks

C²

We dont currently have plans to build a passenger side box unless the demand is there. Get me 20+ guys ready to buy and we will build.

Thanks,

4080

[19psi]

very nice! i hate you GS guys who don't have your fuel tank between the trunk and back seat!

[jtgs400]

I may be mistaken but isn't it bad to mount an amp upside down unless you have direct airflow going to it?

Anyways, that's a very clean install. Wish the 2gen had that little hatch opening in the back seat.