Making the ML sub sound better
#46
I would not use this setup with your application because if you start adding extra power to those woofers you will blow them. Your best route is to leave the existing speakers alone and add a 10 or 12 inch sub with an external amp. Since you don't have a trunk a 200 RMS amp with a decent sub will sound great. If you want to **** your neighbors off jump up to at 1000 RMS amp with 12's or 15's.
Most of what he did will still apply because you have to get a signal to the amp.
1. How did you determine the impedance of the sub? It looks like the RX has two subs: front left and front right. If my setup has a similar impedance then bridged mono will make sense.
2. I have no idea why you do this:
Mind explaining?
Mind explaining?
If you don't have a high level input then you need a LOC. The LOC will have positive and negative connections for a right and left signal and provide RCA outputs for the amp. You will however have to run a remote turn on line and some RCA cables.
3. Why does this occur at 36Hz given that the spec for the amp (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...11ZX450.2.html) says 40Hz, and how do you determine how much is safe to boost by?
It doesn't matter if you go high level or LOC you need a signal for the amp. The easiest way is to splice into the speakers at the rear of the car. Don't cut anything, go to radio shack and get a splicing kit that will allow you to tap into the speaker line without cutting the wire. Although you could get away with only splicing one speaker I would do the left and the right rear speaker.
I assure you a single sub in a sealed box will make all the difference in the world!
#47
Intermediate
Thread Starter
2. I have no idea why you do this: [shunting the inputs]Mind explaining?
3. Why does this occur at 36Hz given that the spec for the amp says 40Hz, and how do you determine how much is safe to boost by?
I set the control to give me a 5 dB lift at the peak (36 Hz), which was enough to do what I needed to counteract the native bloated bass sound. This was determined by trial and error until I got the bass to sound as I wanted.
#49
Your talking about two different setups, the GS has a single 10inch sub in the rear deck along with mid-range woofers in the doors. From the brief search I did online the RX has mid-range woofers in the doors and no dedicated sub.
I would not use this setup with your application because if you start adding extra power to those woofers you will blow them. Your best route is to leave the existing speakers alone and add a 10 or 12 inch sub with an external amp. Since you don't have a trunk a 200 RMS amp with a decent sub will sound great. If you want to **** your neighbors off jump up to at 1000 RMS amp with 12's or 15's.
...
Regardless of which route you take you must get a signal to the amp. Your nicer amps have a high level input. What this means is that you can splice into a speaker line which is already amplified by the ML amp and connect that wire directly into the high level input of the amp. The benefit is you don't need any additional equipment and don't have to run a remote turn on line. When the amp sees a signal it will turn its self on and off based on sound coming thru the speakers.
If you don't have a high level input then you need a LOC. The LOC will have positive and negative connections for a right and left signal and provide RCA outputs for the amp. You will however have to run a remote turn on line and some RCA cables.
I would not use this setup with your application because if you start adding extra power to those woofers you will blow them. Your best route is to leave the existing speakers alone and add a 10 or 12 inch sub with an external amp. Since you don't have a trunk a 200 RMS amp with a decent sub will sound great. If you want to **** your neighbors off jump up to at 1000 RMS amp with 12's or 15's.
...
Regardless of which route you take you must get a signal to the amp. Your nicer amps have a high level input. What this means is that you can splice into a speaker line which is already amplified by the ML amp and connect that wire directly into the high level input of the amp. The benefit is you don't need any additional equipment and don't have to run a remote turn on line. When the amp sees a signal it will turn its self on and off based on sound coming thru the speakers.
If you don't have a high level input then you need a LOC. The LOC will have positive and negative connections for a right and left signal and provide RCA outputs for the amp. You will however have to run a remote turn on line and some RCA cables.
Relevant Specs:
mono subwoofer amplifier
500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (750 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)
frequency response: 10-280 Hz
variable low-pass filter (40-280 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 45 Hz)
Simple Setup System with test tone CD for perfect gain setting
optional wired remote level controller available soon
preamp and speaker-level inputs (speaker wire-to-RCA adapters included)
switchable automatic signal-sensing turns on amp without need for remote lead
fuse rating: 40A x 2
8-gauge power and ground leads recommended wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
It doesn't matter if you go high level or LOC you need a signal for the amp. The easiest way is to splice into the speakers at the rear of the car. Don't cut anything, go to radio shack and get a splicing kit that will allow you to tap into the speaker line without cutting the wire. Although you could get away with only splicing one speaker I would do the left and the right rear speaker.
I assure you a single sub in a sealed box will make all the difference in the world!
I assure you a single sub in a sealed box will make all the difference in the world!
#50
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Oklahoma
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This is awesome DrexLex, thank you for the informative post. I will have to try this out. But can you help explain to me what the RCA phono plugs are? So with these you will not need a set of RCA wires going anywhere correct? It it to just basically short it out to not need it? I never seen this before, thank you in advance.
#52
Intermediate
Thread Starter
This is awesome DrexLex, thank you for the informative post. I will have to try this out. But can you help explain to me what the RCA phono plugs are? So with these you will not need a set of RCA wires going anywhere correct? It it to just basically short it out to not need it? I never seen this before, thank you in advance.
Once you have the system running, adjust the amp's chassis gain control as needed to match the system to the remote volume.
#55
Intermediate
Thread Starter
The center is the "pin" and the longer arm usually grasps the outer shield (ground). In these amps the "ground" input is not actually tied to chassis, otherwise it will upset a bridge amp (which is what we have in our ML amps).
You are driving this from a subwoofer signal so only need to drive one of the two inputs -- leave the other open. Best to consult the manual for details for your specific amp. Do exactly as they say.
I guess Kicker changed things over time but used the same model number for 4 different models. I have the older series that has the separate HI level input, and looks like this:
The newer one uses the phono input for both cases:
See the amp pix full size at this website.
Last edited by DrexLex; 06-30-14 at 10:33 PM.
#57
Pit Crew
iTrader: (1)
I know I am reviving an old thread, but I was curious if this would make the bass from the ML sub any cleaner? Its got plenty of thump but I'd like to clean up and tighten the bass in the vehicle. I'd prefer this method over adding another sub, but worst case scenario I'll add a JL audio 8" w7 or something.
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
#58
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I know I am reviving an old thread, but I was curious if this would make the bass from the ML sub any cleaner? Its got plenty of thump but I'd like to clean up and tighten the bass in the vehicle. I'd prefer this method over adding another sub, but worst case scenario I'll add a JL audio 8" w7 or something.
And if you decide that you want to run a different sub, you'll need a new power amp anyway, so this mod gets you there with nothing going to waste.
#60
so just to clarify, you are adding a separate amp for the ML subwoofer, which leaves the ML amp to just power the rest of the ML speakers in the car cabin right ?
does anyone know what size the ML subwoofer is ? is it a single subwoofer set up ? I'm more concerned with the ML subwoofer deteriorating at the rubber surrounds.
I used to have a 2001 LS430 and the surrounds on the cheap subwoofer were the first thing to deteriorate.
does anyone know what size the ML subwoofer is ? is it a single subwoofer set up ? I'm more concerned with the ML subwoofer deteriorating at the rubber surrounds.
I used to have a 2001 LS430 and the surrounds on the cheap subwoofer were the first thing to deteriorate.