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How hard is it to replace the 2 lower motor mounts?
Do a search, I believe there is a DIY guide somewhere here. Honestly its not too in depth but if you don't know what your doing don't even bother. I just had my mechanic do mine.
Step 1: Jack car up, remove wheel
Step 2: Remove cotter pin and castellated nut (mounted to lower control arm)
Step 3: Remove the 2 bolts on either side of the castellated nut (mounted to steering knuckle)
Step 4: Remove cotter pin and castellated nut from tie rod end
Step 5: Using a pitman puller, remove main bolt (the one in the middle) on the bottom of the ball joint
Step 6: Using same pitman puller, remove bolt from tie rod (releasing it from the ball joint
Lift steering knuckle and attached brake assembly up and twist/set it aside. Now the joint is exposed and able to remove. Its a good idea to change the tie rod ends too since you're in there. Remember to mark where they are seated before removing them, either way an alignment is highly recommended. Now install the new ball joint and rod end and reverse the process.
Torque spec for the 2 outer bolts to steering knuckle is 113 ft-lb
Torque spec for main ball joint bolt to lower control arm is 162 ft-lb
Torque spec for tie rod joint bolt to lower ball joint is 87 ft-lb
I'm not 100% sure if you need to removed the caliper, but you'll know once you get in there.
Step 1: Jack car up, remove wheel
Step 2: Remove cotter pin and castellated nut (mounted to lower control arm)
Step 3: Remove the 2 bolts on either side of the castellated nut (mounted to steering knuckle)
Step 4: Remove cotter pin and castellated nut from tie rod end
Step 5: Using a pitman puller, remove main bolt (the one in the middle) on the bottom of the ball joint
Step 6: Using same pitman puller, remove bolt from tie rod (releasing it from the ball joint
Lift steering knuckle and attached brake assembly up and twist/set it aside. Now the joint is exposed and able to remove. Its a good idea to change the tie rod ends too since you're in there. Remember to mark where they are seated before removing them, either way an alignment is highly recommended. Now install the new ball joint and rod end and reverse the process.
Torque spec for the 2 outer bolts to steering knuckle is 113 ft-lb
Torque spec for main ball joint bolt to lower control arm is 162 ft-lb
Torque spec for tie rod joint bolt to lower ball joint is 87 ft-lb
I'm not 100% sure if you need to removed the caliper, but you'll know once you get in there.
he is asking for motor mounts not Ball joints.... I'm confused?
I attempted to replace my motor mounts on my 99 GS300. I had to stop because I could not get the mounts out. I was able to remove all the nuts, lift the engine with the 2x4, I even lifted the transmission a bit just so the engine and tranny were both level (I read this in a previous post). I could wiggle and twist the mounts, they were completely loose and ready to come out, but I needed an extra inch and half or so and I couldn't get up because the engine was already touching the firewall. I don't want to take my car in although I was quoted $295 for all three mounts without parts. I've done all my work in my garage (timing belt, shift solenoid, LBJ's, blah blah) so I'm handy and somewhat mechanically inclined. What am I doing wrong?
I attempted to replace my motor mounts on my 99 GS300. I had to stop because I could not get the mounts out. I was able to remove all the nuts, lift the engine with the 2x4, I even lifted the transmission a bit just so the engine and tranny were both level (I read this in a previous post). I could wiggle and twist the mounts, they were completely loose and ready to come out, but I needed an extra inch and half or so and I couldn't get up because the engine was already touching the firewall. I don't want to take my car in although I was quoted $295 for all three mounts without parts. I've done all my work in my garage (timing belt, shift solenoid, LBJ's, blah blah) so I'm handy and somewhat mechanically inclined. What am I doing wrong?
I think the mistake you are making is you can only lift ONE side at a time - as someone else said the 300 are easier than the 400, I have done lots over the years and recently did 2 sets of 400 mounts.
Do use a piece of at least 2x8 under the pan to avoid denting it with the jack ( I know you said 2x4)
02-05-15, 09:52 AM
.... Search function wasn't working for me last night...
