Front wheel shake at 60MPH
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Front wheel shake at 60MPH
Hey everyone, I have a 02 GS300. In June of 2014 I replaced Lower Control arms, Ball Joints, and Rod ends. Just last week I recently had EBC Ultimax rotors, Green stuff pads, and new steel braided brake lines. I have been dealing with the shake in the wheel at 55-65Mph since June which led me to the suspension replacement parts. I still have the wheel shake as of today. I did an alignment after the suspension parts and just before i replaced the brake parts. Does anyone have any idea what could possible be causing my wheel to shake pretty bad?? I feel like I am doing damage to my car I just do not know what it could be. Thank you in advance for the advice.
Ryan
Ryan
#3
unfortunately it could be a ton of things.
Do a search there are megathreads on people trying to nail down the shake for their specific car. And what solves it for for 1 car might not solve it for you.
Most though have it the worst if they are using aftermarket wheels/rims with lowering.
If you stick with the stock wheels with good quality new tires and stock suspension, the shake is most hidden.
It is still there, just being cancelled out.
You can try all the cheap things first, but hold your breath if the shake is still there-or you think you got it, but comes back the next week when it turns cold, or after you filled up with gas, or if 2 blue cars then a yellow car drove past you (basically random).
Do a search there are megathreads on people trying to nail down the shake for their specific car. And what solves it for for 1 car might not solve it for you.
Most though have it the worst if they are using aftermarket wheels/rims with lowering.
If you stick with the stock wheels with good quality new tires and stock suspension, the shake is most hidden.
It is still there, just being cancelled out.
You can try all the cheap things first, but hold your breath if the shake is still there-or you think you got it, but comes back the next week when it turns cold, or after you filled up with gas, or if 2 blue cars then a yellow car drove past you (basically random).
#4
I'll point you to this thread to start reading:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...on-thread.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...on-thread.html
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I'll point you to this thread to start reading:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...on-thread.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...on-thread.html
Trending Topics
#8
Pit Crew
iTrader: (2)
I've just gone through the same thing, and I've read every thread in the suspension forum twice.
The biggest typical culprit is the Caster Arm Bushings. The only company that makes a good bushing that makes up for the design flaw in our cars is Figs. I just installed their poly caster arm bushings, along with their poly control arm bushings while I was at it, and not only did it eliminate the wheel shake, but steering feels tighter and more responsive, and the brake feel is much improved!
The upgraded caster arm bushings will remove a lot of the stress off the ball joints that causes them to catastrophically fail prematurely.
Of course, the next most likely thing is wheel/tire balance. I've heard that there is a 'road force balancer' that you want to make sure the shop you go to uses. I guess they balance it for a higher speed (more precise).
The last thing you can do is the poly steering rack bushings - for those I did go Daizen.
With those things taken care of, and an alignment done, there should be no steering wheel shake whatsoever. If there is, something is seriously wrong, most likely with the alignment or wheels/tires.
Now, the audible clunking is another thing altogether, if you find you have that once the above is done, I can help with that as well.
#9
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
Stay away from any urethane bushings - EXCEPT the rack bushings
Things that effect vibration in the 2GS: ( besides the obvious wheel issues)
- Steering rack pretensioner adjustment
- Caster arms
- Upper and lower balljoints and tierods ( the uppers in particular caused a lot on my car, as the bushings in the arms also wear)
- The latest news from me is that my rear knuckle bushings were worn and that caused a vibration that I thought was the front.
My car now rides as smooth as glass, and this is my "winter beater" GS - with the things I've learned on this car I'll go over the summer GS once it's back on the road.
Things that effect vibration in the 2GS: ( besides the obvious wheel issues)
- Steering rack pretensioner adjustment
- Caster arms
- Upper and lower balljoints and tierods ( the uppers in particular caused a lot on my car, as the bushings in the arms also wear)
- The latest news from me is that my rear knuckle bushings were worn and that caused a vibration that I thought was the front.
My car now rides as smooth as glass, and this is my "winter beater" GS - with the things I've learned on this car I'll go over the summer GS once it's back on the road.
#10
I had vibration caused by a seized caliper. It's something easy to rule out by jacking up the front of the car and making sure the wheels spin freely.
Also, get your tires road force balanced. It really does help.
Also, get your tires road force balanced. It really does help.
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Do NOT get the Daizen bushings kit.
I've just gone through the same thing, and I've read every thread in the suspension forum twice.
The biggest typical culprit is the Caster Arm Bushings. The only company that makes a good bushing that makes up for the design flaw in our cars is Figs. I just installed their poly caster arm bushings, along with their poly control arm bushings while I was at it, and not only did it eliminate the wheel shake, but steering feels tighter and more responsive, and the brake feel is much improved!
The upgraded caster arm bushings will remove a lot of the stress off the ball joints that causes them to catastrophically fail prematurely.
Of course, the next most likely thing is wheel/tire balance. I've heard that there is a 'road force balancer' that you want to make sure the shop you go to uses. I guess they balance it for a higher speed (more precise).
The last thing you can do is the poly steering rack bushings - for those I did go Daizen.
With those things taken care of, and an alignment done, there should be no steering wheel shake whatsoever. If there is, something is seriously wrong, most likely with the alignment or wheels/tires.
Now, the audible clunking is another thing altogether, if you find you have that once the above is done, I can help with that as well.
I've just gone through the same thing, and I've read every thread in the suspension forum twice.
The biggest typical culprit is the Caster Arm Bushings. The only company that makes a good bushing that makes up for the design flaw in our cars is Figs. I just installed their poly caster arm bushings, along with their poly control arm bushings while I was at it, and not only did it eliminate the wheel shake, but steering feels tighter and more responsive, and the brake feel is much improved!
The upgraded caster arm bushings will remove a lot of the stress off the ball joints that causes them to catastrophically fail prematurely.
Of course, the next most likely thing is wheel/tire balance. I've heard that there is a 'road force balancer' that you want to make sure the shop you go to uses. I guess they balance it for a higher speed (more precise).
The last thing you can do is the poly steering rack bushings - for those I did go Daizen.
With those things taken care of, and an alignment done, there should be no steering wheel shake whatsoever. If there is, something is seriously wrong, most likely with the alignment or wheels/tires.
Now, the audible clunking is another thing altogether, if you find you have that once the above is done, I can help with that as well.
If its just a bushing problem i will be so relieved! I feel like I have been chasing this problem for the past 6 months!.
I found the #2 Caster Bushings on Figs and they are reasonably priced.
#15
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Stay away from any urethane bushings - EXCEPT the rack bushings
Things that effect vibration in the 2GS: ( besides the obvious wheel issues)
- Steering rack pretensioner adjustment
- Caster arms
- Upper and lower balljoints and tierods ( the uppers in particular caused a lot on my car, as the bushings in the arms also wear)
- The latest news from me is that my rear knuckle bushings were worn and that caused a vibration that I thought was the front.
My car now rides as smooth as glass, and this is my "winter beater" GS - with the things I've learned on this car I'll go over the summer GS once it's back on the road.
Things that effect vibration in the 2GS: ( besides the obvious wheel issues)
- Steering rack pretensioner adjustment
- Caster arms
- Upper and lower balljoints and tierods ( the uppers in particular caused a lot on my car, as the bushings in the arms also wear)
- The latest news from me is that my rear knuckle bushings were worn and that caused a vibration that I thought was the front.
My car now rides as smooth as glass, and this is my "winter beater" GS - with the things I've learned on this car I'll go over the summer GS once it's back on the road.
I was also thinking of Upper Control arms but I think if i shore up the lower half by replacing the Caster arm bushings i can have peace of mind at least haha. Replacing the caster bushings would mean i have replaced ever front lower suspension part possible within the last 6 months.
Any good suggestions on upper control arms?