Nick 2jz

Ok to start off I did some research on DIY door locks, I thought to myself how bad could it be. It will save me about $300.

here is the ebay link to motors i bought:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ayphotohosting

My passenger rear and front door lock motors were both shot. I started on the rear door. I was having trouble because the DIY write up for the front door is a little different than the back. I got stuck and figured i will do the front door and follow the write up.

I was working on the front door and got it all out in like 35 minutes. It took me a little bit to figure out that you do not need to roll down the window. So I got the motor out and cracked it open.

I thought it wouldn't be that bad, just swap out the motors. The spiral shaft didn't fit as well on the ebay motors than it did on the factory mabuchi motors. (due to the black metal piece that the ebay ones didn't have.)

After messing around with it for a few hours of trying to use the ebay ones without the black adapter, it wasn't working. The motor was working because it sounded like my locks were supercharged. Then the manual locks weren't working and im in worse shape than i started. I finally asked my dad to take a look at it because he is an electrician. After about 35 minutes of him messing around with it, he got the black adapter off and replaced the goldish color adapter on the ebay ones with the black factory.

I put it all back together and it works perfectly. Sorry there is not write up, but when i do the rear door a different day I will show you guys exactly what to do.

So for all you that have done Mabuchi motor swaps. YOU ARE NUTS!!!!!!!!

swat1727

iTrader: (2)

are all motors the same size? but these are the ones u put in ur car tho right?

Nick 2jz

there the same size motors...same voltage.

but on the output shaft their is a goldish adapter on the ebay ones is not the same. It is too small to fit the spiral shaft in the lock actuator. It would spin freely inside it and sound like a supercharger.haha

iGOTlexy

iTrader: (3)

so would this product work ?

98GSOwner

If you are using the motors referred to in this thread, they do work perfectly:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...k+actuator+DIY

This thread is awesome. It refers to the front door replacement, but I think there is some rear door info there also. It was worth the time I took to read through it all before I fixed mine. You do have to remove the brass collar on the replacement motor shaft and replace it with the black flat coupler off the factory motor. Other than that, the motor is 100% direct drop in. There is great info on the above thread for getting the collar /couplers off and on.

TRD911

The thread above is really good. Everyone worked very hard on it and it is very detailed with pics and the struggles of getting this done.

Thanks for putting the link above.

BP

vmirjamali

I had a quick question on this:

After reading through this thread I'm still up in arms as whether I need the FC-280PT-22125 with the copper ending or would the one with the normal shaft work fine?



or:

eztech3

how do u take the actuator apart

lexo98

iTrader: (2)

I used a really small screwdriver and hammer and cracked it open at the seams. You have to just work your way around it and be patient

KeyKeeper

yes.

I use a utility knife very carefully and the two plastic "clam sheel" halves pop right open. A little bit of 2 part epoxy and its all good to go.

Also what I dont get is why do people buy the motors with brass couplers on them when they cant be used in the first place??? Just buy the motors with NO coupling and reuse your old coupling.

Use a pair of good wire cutters and cut the old shafts at the base near the motor bushing (put the motor in a bag or bucket while your cutting so the small shaft bit/couple doesnt go sailing). Then use a bench vise and open the jaws up just enough for the shaft part to fit in loosely. The coupler will set on the jaw shoulders. Tap the old piece of shaft out, then tap the old coupler onto the new motor leaving roughly 1/8" gap between the coupler and the motor bushing. When tapping the coupler onto the new motor, place the NON DRIVE END shaft of the motor on the vise jaw (shaft end pointing up) and then tap the coupler on the shaft lightly. With the non drive end sitting on the vise, it wont put axial pressure on the plastic cap/connector thing. Ive done oodles of these here in the Austin area. 2hrs round trip for all 4 doors....easy as pie.

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

^wanna do mine? I'm in Houston, but I'll drive up to ATX haha

angus

iTrader: (4)

I'm surprised people are still having trouble with this.

I did have the idea of doing actuators for people on an exchange basis - but I thought it's so easy that nobody would need it.

lexo98

iTrader: (2)

I'm always worried about shattering the plastic housing. Everything else was cake

DosyBoy

iTrader: (1)

I sawed mine open with a steak knife then super glued it, easy peasy

burny

I didn't even glue mine back together they have been working for 2 years now. Front driver and rear passenger.

Does anyone know what type motors go into the servo motors? I will do the same thing when I need them fixed.