Car shuts off at operating temperature
10-07-14, 08:48 AM
#17
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Update I've ran the car at idle for at least 40 minutes until it cut off. The car wont restart and the check engine light is not on when the key is in the on position. Also when reving between 2500 and 3000rpm the car seems to backfire Like somebodys kicking the back of the car. On my way to get a multimeter to do some testing.
After the car was off for 10 minutes the check engine light came on but still no codes
After the car was off for 10 minutes the check engine light came on but still no codes
Last edited by Beef356; 10-07-14 at 08:50 AM. Reason: new information
10-07-14, 02:02 PM
#19
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Hey mate
Have you checked all the main relays for Fuel pump and ECU? Check to see if they have intermittent play with a multimeter/scope when your car is warmed up.
If there is no codes and the engine suddenly dies that could mean that the ECU itself is not able to log a code because the problem is itself. Also check grounds and main feeds to the ECU too.
Have you checked all the main relays for Fuel pump and ECU? Check to see if they have intermittent play with a multimeter/scope when your car is warmed up.
If there is no codes and the engine suddenly dies that could mean that the ECU itself is not able to log a code because the problem is itself. Also check grounds and main feeds to the ECU too.
After the car cut off the check engine did not cut on for at least ten minutes so something is wrong .
10-12-14, 01:20 PM
#20
When the problem happens, your basically looking to see if there is still a 12V supply on any of the ignition, B or B+ terminals of the ECU. And a 0V on the ground terminals of the ECU.
Leave the black probe of the multimeter on a good ground (negative terminal on battery) and use the red probe to go along and check the pins. (you may need to use a sowing needle or equivalent to backprobe the pins)
A better way to check the ground pins on the ECU is to put your red probe on the positive terminal of the battery and use your black probe on the ground pins of the ECU - you should see 12V on the meter when the ground is good.
The ECU is located in the engine bay near the battery (for RHD)
Will be interesting to see results.
Leave the black probe of the multimeter on a good ground (negative terminal on battery) and use the red probe to go along and check the pins. (you may need to use a sowing needle or equivalent to backprobe the pins)
A better way to check the ground pins on the ECU is to put your red probe on the positive terminal of the battery and use your black probe on the ground pins of the ECU - you should see 12V on the meter when the ground is good.
The ECU is located in the engine bay near the battery (for RHD)
Will be interesting to see results.
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