GS400, noisy and clunky drivetrain.
09-21-14, 05:32 PM
#18
The transmission keeps making the whining and slight grinding noises at low speed (Park, neutral, reverse, and first two gears). There is nothing I can do about it, so I am going to take the plunge and install the one that came with the car and see if its in better shape.
You might try pulling the serpentine belt and see if the noise disappears.
09-23-14, 08:41 PM
#19
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09-23-14, 08:47 PM
#20
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I am suspecting torque converter.
The timing belt was replaced, and I double checked the marks. Still could be off. But the engine is smooth at idle and up to 1800 rpm. Its also making good power. Mmmmm.
Missfire? No, I`ve thought about it, but no, not breaking up, the thing pulls hard. You have a point here angus.... Something could be fishy with the timing belt. The accesory belt removal is also a good idea. Thank you!
09-23-14, 08:50 PM
#21
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10-06-14, 04:41 PM
#22
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Update
Having operative gauges changes the driving experience quite a bit. Now I have one less thing to worry about and I can focus my full attention on the vibration issue. I still have the low oil light and check engine lights on (Iīll be replacing one of the O2 sensors tonight). Now that I have a tach and speedo I also have better means to evaluate the behaviour of the vibration.
It`s pretty much vibration free up to 1800 RPM (55 MPH in OD). Anything past 2000 RPM you get vibration, no matter what gear, even park or neutral. After 4000 RPM you can hear it inside the car. I avoid pushing it past 2500 for now. 75 MPH in gear vibrates, in neutral (idle), no vibration. In one ocasion I kept vibrating at 70 MPH with the engine at idle (Neutral).
It gets confusing. Maybe the source is multiple.This is the plan of attack:
1- Verify cam timing. (Wouldn`t I get a code from the intake cam position sensors?)
2- Replace the JDM transmission with the transmission that was in the car when I bought it.
Thank you for reading my thread....
P.S.: One last thing, last weekend I bought a 2001 GS300 NA-T, Platinum edition, with some body damage. The car is silver, 37K miles, smoke GS460 wheels, Stand Alone ECU, Intercooler, big Injectors, etc etc.
It`s at the body shop right now. I started the engine and its smooth as silk. My GS400 is so Green in envy...
10-07-14, 07:19 AM
#23
Pole Position
Looking good. Slowly getting there. The miles can be adjusted on the new cluster if that's important to you. There are places or even mobile ECU techs that do this.
Or you can swap just the movements, if in fact the fault is contained within the actual individual gauges.
As for the new car, haha you're hooked. Be careful. Before you know it, you'll have another one.
Keep us posted on the transmission progress.
Or you can swap just the movements, if in fact the fault is contained within the actual individual gauges.
As for the new car, haha you're hooked. Be careful. Before you know it, you'll have another one.
Keep us posted on the transmission progress.
10-08-14, 07:02 PM
#24
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Looking good. Slowly getting there. The miles can be adjusted on the new cluster if that's important to you. There are places or even mobile ECU techs that do this.
Or you can swap just the movements, if in fact the fault is contained within the actual individual gauges.
As for the new car, haha you're hooked. Be careful. Before you know it, you'll have another one.
Keep us posted on the transmission progress.
Or you can swap just the movements, if in fact the fault is contained within the actual individual gauges.
As for the new car, haha you're hooked. Be careful. Before you know it, you'll have another one.
Keep us posted on the transmission progress.
The new car... ahhh! Going back to my turbo roots! Remember my regreats? Now I dont have to choose between V8 and 2JZ.
Last edited by PTYGS400; 10-08-14 at 07:08 PM.
10-09-14, 06:55 PM
#25
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CEL Update
Replacing the Bank 2 Sensor 1 seemed to tame the CEL for a while. After about 45 min of freeway driving, it came back! 
This time I got a new code. P0441. This morning, suspecting simple things like a bad vaccum hose or loose gas cap, I went to work. I switched the two hoses that go from the engine to the evap system. It seemed to work, No CEL today. I still have the low oil light on. It turns off after the engine starts, and comes back on after around 20 seconds. This JDM engine seems to be burning no oil, so if this light keeps giving me trouble... I`ll just remove the bulb. 
Another picture of the turbo GS300....
This time I got a new code. P0441. This morning, suspecting simple things like a bad vaccum hose or loose gas cap, I went to work. I switched the two hoses that go from the engine to the evap system. It seemed to work, No CEL today. I still have the low oil light on. It turns off after the engine starts, and comes back on after around 20 seconds. This JDM engine seems to be burning no oil, so if this light keeps giving me trouble... I`ll just remove the bulb. Another picture of the turbo GS300....
01-06-15, 03:36 AM
#26
Any updates?
I too am chasing a rattle type sound in my car, it ONLY appears at 1100rpm and nowhere else, sounds like it's in the bell housing, I also suspect the tq converter.
As far as your driveshaft noise/play - I have the exact same thing but I have no clunking or vibration like you.
I have also JUST gained a new noise - a high pitch whistle...
I too am chasing a rattle type sound in my car, it ONLY appears at 1100rpm and nowhere else, sounds like it's in the bell housing, I also suspect the tq converter.
As far as your driveshaft noise/play - I have the exact same thing but I have no clunking or vibration like you.
I have also JUST gained a new noise - a high pitch whistle...
01-06-15, 06:55 AM
#27
Pole Position
Any updates?
I too am chasing a rattle type sound in my car, it ONLY appears at 1100rpm and nowhere else, sounds like it's in the bell housing, I also suspect the tq converter.
As far as your driveshaft noise/play - I have the exact same thing but I have no clunking or vibration like you.
I have also JUST gained a new noise - a high pitch whistle...
I too am chasing a rattle type sound in my car, it ONLY appears at 1100rpm and nowhere else, sounds like it's in the bell housing, I also suspect the tq converter.
As far as your driveshaft noise/play - I have the exact same thing but I have no clunking or vibration like you.
I have also JUST gained a new noise - a high pitch whistle...
Search for it in the classifieds.
01-06-15, 09:15 AM
#28
Anytime I experience any clunking or groaning of the drivetrain, very first thing I check is the motor/tranny mounts.
My motor mount was completely split at 100K miles. It caused all kinds of problems that made me think it was a suspension/brake related issue when it was all due to the split passenger side mount.
My motor mount was completely split at 100K miles. It caused all kinds of problems that made me think it was a suspension/brake related issue when it was all due to the split passenger side mount.
01-09-15, 04:02 AM
#29
Anytime I experience any clunking or groaning of the drivetrain, very first thing I check is the motor/tranny mounts.
My motor mount was completely split at 100K miles. It caused all kinds of problems that made me think it was a suspension/brake related issue when it was all due to the split passenger side mount.
My motor mount was completely split at 100K miles. It caused all kinds of problems that made me think it was a suspension/brake related issue when it was all due to the split passenger side mount.
07-09-15, 07:53 PM
#30
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July 2015 Update.
Hello guys, its been a long time. Here the update.
The vibration has nothing to do with the driveshaft or rear axle. Not torque related either. Itīs totally RPM related. The engine/tranny make a moaning noise at low speed (idling and up to maybe 25 mph). Here is what has been done:
1- Timing belt synchronization was checked. Results: nothing wrong here. All is perfect.
2- Transmission and torque converter replaced with a Lexus/Toyota remanufactured unit. This tranny looks Brand new in every way (case, bolts, stickers, etc). Results: the moaning noise and vibration is EXACTLY the same as before!
Pending tests.
1- Starting the engine without the accesory belt and testing with another balancer (on my desk now)
2- Making sure that all the pins in the ignition coils are in the right position. (Some of the connectors were replaced).
3- Crankshaft inspection. This is the most extreme diagnostic I have heard from people who has been asked about this issue.... broken crankshaft! The theory is that the crank could be broken in the middle and getting some pistons out of phase. A slant fracture would not let the parts spin a whole turn but would cause vibration and noise (thrust bearings under a lot of load).
This kinda makes sense. The engine vibration is not always the same. Sometimes light, sometimes heavy. It gets worse if you make hard accelerations. When heavy you can hear the dashboard vibrate at over 2500 rpm. On the highway, when vibration was really obnoxious (bothersome even at 2000 rpm), I would alternate from "D" to "N" several times until I got it to get light. Thatīs why I was convinced it was something with the transmission.
I hardly drive the car anymore. What a waste!
The vibration has nothing to do with the driveshaft or rear axle. Not torque related either. Itīs totally RPM related. The engine/tranny make a moaning noise at low speed (idling and up to maybe 25 mph). Here is what has been done:
1- Timing belt synchronization was checked. Results: nothing wrong here. All is perfect.
2- Transmission and torque converter replaced with a Lexus/Toyota remanufactured unit. This tranny looks Brand new in every way (case, bolts, stickers, etc). Results: the moaning noise and vibration is EXACTLY the same as before!
Pending tests.
1- Starting the engine without the accesory belt and testing with another balancer (on my desk now)
2- Making sure that all the pins in the ignition coils are in the right position. (Some of the connectors were replaced).
3- Crankshaft inspection. This is the most extreme diagnostic I have heard from people who has been asked about this issue.... broken crankshaft!
The theory is that the crank could be broken in the middle and getting some pistons out of phase. A slant fracture would not let the parts spin a whole turn but would cause vibration and noise (thrust bearings under a lot of load).This kinda makes sense. The engine vibration is not always the same. Sometimes light, sometimes heavy. It gets worse if you make hard accelerations. When heavy you can hear the dashboard vibrate at over 2500 rpm. On the highway, when vibration was really obnoxious (bothersome even at 2000 rpm), I would alternate from "D" to "N" several times until I got it to get light. Thatīs why I was convinced it was something with the transmission.
I hardly drive the car anymore. What a waste!