czr73

Hi CL,

I was cleaning my throttle body today (after reading many related DIY pages on this forum) and instead of disconnecting the TPS from the clip, which is located right in front of TB, I unscrewed the TPS sensor.

After manually adjusting it by hand, I can't seem to get the idle back to 800 RPM's where it should be. When I shift to "D" Drive the idle drops between 400-600 RPM's.

Further, at full stop and in "D" Drive, the car will not move when I release the brake. This is related to the lower RPM's as well.

So the question on the table is how do I calibrate my TPS?? I have a good multimeter but don't know the proper ohm resistance I should adjust it to.

Thanks for your help.

Czr =)

islexusred

when i replaced my TPS few months back, i just used the Torque Pro app on my phone to calibrate it! honestly am not sure if i did it right but i very slowly turned the sensor until the throttle is 16% opened that translate to around 750 RPM. Once in a while i feel a very mild rough idle. not sure if that has anything to do with the calibration.

burny

Have someone sit it the car after it has reached operating temperature and then undo both screws a little and slide the TPS just so slightly(try to the right first) while the person looks for it to hit 700rpm while idling. Then tighten screws down. This usually take me a couple attempts to nail it.

MrHimbert

Ignore that last comment. Sorry guy that would "work" but no. Do things correctly the first time and future issues will not arise.
The reason i say this is because the entire throttle body system works in series. If one component on there fails, your car goes into limp mode by default, and throws similar codes each time. Id personally rather know that my TPS was set correctly and be able to rule that out when troubleshooting.
If the system detects a lower or higher voltage than it should be (.64-.72) it will instantly go into limp mode and stay there.

Anyway, Get a Multimeter that will read below 20 volts. (I used the cheap $6 one from harbor freight) this one reads much more sensitively than the 12-20$ ones they have.

Put your positive lead in the second wire down from the top. Stick it in from behind (giggidty) without unplugging anything. There is a yellow grommet around the wires in the back where the TPS connects to the car. Slide your positive lead under it along the wire almost until the entire silver lead is not visible.

Take your negative lead and place it to a known good ground. I used the screws where the timing cover is attached to.

with the car on but NOT running, you should be getting from .64-.72

Mine is set at .70 and runs like a champ. I did mine while it was on, but i do what i want, so it worked. Haven't had any huge issues. but I'm still keeping my eye on it as i feel that my TPS is slowly going out. who knows. But once you do this, disconnect the negative terminal for 10 mins. then put it back on, and start it up. Let it run for 10 mins, then see if you are getting any codes or its running oddly. report back.

offbad

iTrader: (5)

2nd @mrhimbert

you want the correct voltages, key in the ON position but not running.

if you're scared of piercing any cables, get a good needle and measure it by proxy.

marshun

yup. definitely stick needles into the backside of the clip and measure that way. im not sure of the measurements for voltages. but the readings that come to mind are .45-.5 at idle. the car has to be warmed up all the way to get out of the warm up loop.

do it the right way so that you dont harm anything later

offbad

iTrader: (5)

i believe it's:
0.60-0.70 cold
0.65-0.75 warm

but @mrhimbert seems to have a better grasp on the subject

czr73

Where did you get that range setting information?? Thanks!!!! I did just like you instructed and set my TPS to .70 and I guess it runs the same. Small difference. I mean I 2GS ran perfect before this happened too.

That .70 setting increased the idle a little bit only. The car moves forward on its own now when in "D" drive and I released the brakes. I'm going to leave it on this setting for now.
It did NOT throw any codes. I tested it with a OBDII device.

Czr =)

MrHimbert

Boom!

offbad

iTrader: (5)

WOW

50k on the clock