Echo419

iTrader: (1)

Knock sensor cel is on. It came about when I romped on it getting on the interstate. Along with that came the VSC, VSC off, ABS, and airbag light. The battery light came on as well but would go off if I didn't give it much power. If I accelerate to hard it comes back on. Battery light goes off if I take it easy. Other lights stay on but go off when I turn the car off. I just replaced the alternator.

MrHimbert

Cant say too much without some CEL codes. get them read.

offbad

iTrader: (5)

so maybe the battery?

ILL05GS

Need codes. Did you disconnect the battery when replacing the alternator? With all of those lights on which are non-related systems it sounds like you grounded out the alternator cable and fried some major fuses/electrical components

Echo419

iTrader: (1)

code was 325, knock sensor. which is gone after a reset and doesn't come on anymore. only everything else when I get on it hard. and yes I did disconnect the battery.

ILL05GS

The airbag and battery light have nothing to do with the knock sensor. Sounds like you have more than one problem.

DMPesso

sounds like its the alternator or battery, make sure the alternator you put in is good and that none of the wires are messed up, what your describing happens EXACTLY the way you say it when an alternator is going bad, but it COULD be the battery as well...

DMPesso

based on the fact that the battery light only comes on when you give it more power, go to autozone have them check your battery for FREE, so you can at least rule that out if its not the issue.

Echo419

iTrader: (1)

the battery is less than 1 month old.

took it to a guy. he said the alt is putting out to much power and it might be a regulator in the alt that is bad and causing this. I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and take it back to the alt guy and see what he says.

at this point I'm just over it. either way I think once I get the alt back on I'm dumping this car like a fat girl I caught cheating.

DMPesso

Age of the battery doesn't matter I've had brand new batteries that were defective. Get it tested its free. And if u didn't get the alternator from the dealer then most likely that's the problem. If you would've gotten it from the dealer and had an experienced mechanic do the job this would never have happened

Echo419

iTrader: (1)

While the battery could be bad and I'll get it checked there is zero chance I botched the install.

JimBobNC

Try measuring the system voltage as you are driving. Alternators don't "put out too much power", their output is regulated by the regulator. The regulator could be bad. The diodes could be bad. Also, batteries (through no fault of the end user) do suffer infant mortality. (Such things as rough handling during shipping come to mind.) Anyhow, most regulators seem to be set for 14.1 volts these days. If you don't have at least 13.8 volts, suspect the alternator, the battery or associated wiring. Have the battery load tested, that's the only reliable test.

Echo419

iTrader: (1)

it's high. I'm pulling it out in a bit and taking it back to the alt shop. after I get it back I'm 99% sure I'm going to go sell it and buy a new car. and by new I mean like 12 miles on it. I'm over this.

Echo419

iTrader: (1)

alt tested at 14.4v. he's going to break it down and check it out.