Oil Change
06-01-14, 01:36 PM
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Oil Change
What's up guys, I just recently got a 98 gs400 with 122k miles. I'm due for an oil change soon and I'm not sure if i should get this done by the dealership (Lexus/Toyota) or at a shop like jiffy lube. I don't have much knowledge on cars as you all but I'm sure this is the place to learn. I dont want to pay the dealerships horrendous prices but i would like peace at mind to have it done their nor do i want to go to jiffy lube because as a personal preference, I dont trust them and they just make you buy ***** that you dont need. I was planning to pick up Mobil 1 5W-20 Ext Per Full Synth and get oil filters, bring them to the dealership and have them do everything. I've read on some really old forums that people have done this and they pay for labor around 20 bucks. Has anyone had any experience with this? Also where can I purchase oem oil filters?
Thanks
Thanks
06-01-14, 01:46 PM
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I think it isn't a good idea to use low hot viscosity oil such as 5w20. This oil is good for modern engines and for slight fuel economy. IMO, better to choose cheap original Toyota 5w30 and don't forget to change it in 5000 miles. Oil Filter original cheap and works fine 
06-01-14, 02:20 PM
#5
I assume this is your first car and you are new to car ownership, which is why you that you are stressing out over your car.
But the reality is this is tried and true Toyota/Japanese engineering from 20years ago, which is not special or unique. Toyota has been the #1 mass-market in the US for the last 15years, so don't think just because it has an L on the front, you have a unique or special car. It is as basic and generic as it gets, and EVERY mechanic can work on a toyota.
BMWs or german engineering are known for being more complex, or even the "new" toyotas designed after 2005 which take cartridge filters.
Here are my tips and opinions, you can take it or leave it as you please, but this is what I do.
1) The oil you should use for this car is 5w-30 as explained on the oil cap and instruction manual.
2) You can read the DIY for how do i do an oil change to see what this involves, either in the sticky or just on the internet. Remember this is a "standard" generic oil change with zero special instructions specific to toyota/lexus, not even needing to reset an oil reminder.
3) Any mechanic from DIY yourself, jiffylube, or a master toyota tech can do this and is considered simple maintenance. You will actually find jiffylube and quick oil places are not necessarily cheaper, they are more expensive because you are paying for convenience.
4) You can use conv. oil or synthetic oil; but you are best making your decision at parts store based on price and what is on sale. You can also consider that synthetic oil isn't really that much more expensive then conv. oil these days when bought on sale at the parts store, especially when divided over the 7500miles you will be using the oil. So I just buy whatever full synthetic oil is on sale if I need to restock.
You can bring your choice of oil and filter and pay labor only to 99% of shops including quick-lube places. However, at quicklube places they will only discount their price $3-$5 which is how much they value the bulk standard oil they put in.
5) The instructions manual says for normal service, even with conv. oil, the oil change interval is good for 7500miles. Even today's conv. oils far exceed the specs of the synthetic from the 1990s which was when this engine was designed (as long as it's not an uncertified off-shelf brand).
6) Filters are also not rocket science for this car. If you follow tip (4) you often end up getting a filter in your oilchange sale, so just pick the one appropriate for this car. OEM is also about the same $5 price if you make a purchase from a dealer on the internet or stop by one, but those filters aren't really special either. Although Fram gets a bad "rap" in the past, having a bad rap puts you on notice so that you're under extra scrutiny not to fail anymore, especially if you are just using your car normally.
7) You may want to consider finding a local mechanic whom you are going to form a relationship with, so you know who to go to when you are going to do other services. Personally, if I just need only an oil change, I either change my own oil, or go to a particular quicklube place where they bundle in a free car wash (I'm more picky about the quality of the car wash rather then the generic nature of the oil change). When I hit a maintenance where I want other stuff done, I just have my mechanic do it all in one shot, rather then trying to save a few bucks by doing the oil change separately.
But the reality is this is tried and true Toyota/Japanese engineering from 20years ago, which is not special or unique. Toyota has been the #1 mass-market in the US for the last 15years, so don't think just because it has an L on the front, you have a unique or special car. It is as basic and generic as it gets, and EVERY mechanic can work on a toyota.
BMWs or german engineering are known for being more complex, or even the "new" toyotas designed after 2005 which take cartridge filters.
Here are my tips and opinions, you can take it or leave it as you please, but this is what I do.
1) The oil you should use for this car is 5w-30 as explained on the oil cap and instruction manual.
2) You can read the DIY for how do i do an oil change to see what this involves, either in the sticky or just on the internet. Remember this is a "standard" generic oil change with zero special instructions specific to toyota/lexus, not even needing to reset an oil reminder.
3) Any mechanic from DIY yourself, jiffylube, or a master toyota tech can do this and is considered simple maintenance. You will actually find jiffylube and quick oil places are not necessarily cheaper, they are more expensive because you are paying for convenience.
4) You can use conv. oil or synthetic oil; but you are best making your decision at parts store based on price and what is on sale. You can also consider that synthetic oil isn't really that much more expensive then conv. oil these days when bought on sale at the parts store, especially when divided over the 7500miles you will be using the oil. So I just buy whatever full synthetic oil is on sale if I need to restock.
You can bring your choice of oil and filter and pay labor only to 99% of shops including quick-lube places. However, at quicklube places they will only discount their price $3-$5 which is how much they value the bulk standard oil they put in.
5) The instructions manual says for normal service, even with conv. oil, the oil change interval is good for 7500miles. Even today's conv. oils far exceed the specs of the synthetic from the 1990s which was when this engine was designed (as long as it's not an uncertified off-shelf brand).
6) Filters are also not rocket science for this car. If you follow tip (4) you often end up getting a filter in your oilchange sale, so just pick the one appropriate for this car. OEM is also about the same $5 price if you make a purchase from a dealer on the internet or stop by one, but those filters aren't really special either. Although Fram gets a bad "rap" in the past, having a bad rap puts you on notice so that you're under extra scrutiny not to fail anymore, especially if you are just using your car normally.
7) You may want to consider finding a local mechanic whom you are going to form a relationship with, so you know who to go to when you are going to do other services. Personally, if I just need only an oil change, I either change my own oil, or go to a particular quicklube place where they bundle in a free car wash (I'm more picky about the quality of the car wash rather then the generic nature of the oil change). When I hit a maintenance where I want other stuff done, I just have my mechanic do it all in one shot, rather then trying to save a few bucks by doing the oil change separately.
Last edited by raytseng; 06-01-14 at 02:47 PM.
06-01-14, 02:36 PM
#6
^ this guy here. I typically dont respond to these threads because they are a dime a dozen with a simple search. I work in the oil industry so all ill say is that if you dont plan on doing extended miles (at least 8k) you're wasting your money on synthetic oil. Dino oil of today will easily do 7500 miles. But all meanms If you want to waste money changing syn oil quickly do it. I reap the benefits :-)
06-01-14, 04:04 PM
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I assume this is your first car and you are new to car ownership, which is why you that you are stressing out over your car.
But the reality is this is tried and true Toyota/Japanese engineering from 20years ago, which is not special or unique. Toyota has been the #1 mass-market in the US for the last 15years, so don't think just because it has an L on the front, you have a unique or special car. It is as basic and generic as it gets, and EVERY mechanic can work on a toyota.
BMWs or german engineering are known for being more complex, or even the "new" toyotas designed after 2005 which take cartridge filters.
Here are my tips and opinions, you can take it or leave it as you please, but this is what I do.
1) The oil you should use for this car is 5w-30 as explained on the oil cap and instruction manual.
2) You can read the DIY for how do i do an oil change to see what this involves, either in the sticky or just on the internet. Remember this is a "standard" generic oil change with zero special instructions specific to toyota/lexus, not even needing to reset an oil reminder.
3) Any mechanic from DIY yourself, jiffylube, or a master toyota tech can do this and is considered simple maintenance. You will actually find jiffylube and quick oil places are not necessarily cheaper, they are more expensive because you are paying for convenience.
4) You can use conv. oil or synthetic oil; but you are best making your decision at parts store based on price and what is on sale. You can also consider that synthetic oil isn't really that much more expensive then conv. oil these days when bought on sale at the parts store, especially when divided over the 7500miles you will be using the oil. So I just buy whatever full synthetic oil is on sale if I need to restock.
You can bring your choice of oil and filter and pay labor only to 99% of shops including quick-lube places. However, at quicklube places they will only discount their price $3-$5 which is how much they value the bulk standard oil they put in.
5) The instructions manual says for normal service, even with conv. oil, the oil change interval is good for 7500miles. Even today's conv. oils far exceed the specs of the synthetic from the 1990s which was when this engine was designed (as long as it's not an uncertified off-shelf brand).
6) Filters are also not rocket science for this car. If you follow tip (4) you often end up getting a filter in your oilchange sale, so just pick the one appropriate for this car. OEM is also about the same $5 price if you make a purchase from a dealer on the internet or stop by one, but those filters aren't really special either. Although Fram gets a bad "rap" in the past, having a bad rap puts you on notice so that you're under extra scrutiny not to fail anymore, especially if you are just using your car normally.
7) You may want to consider finding a local mechanic whom you are going to form a relationship with, so you know who to go to when you are going to do other services. Personally, if I just need only an oil change, I either change my own oil, or go to a particular quicklube place where they bundle in a free car wash (I'm more picky about the quality of the car wash rather then the generic nature of the oil change). When I hit a maintenance where I want other stuff done, I just have my mechanic do it all in one shot, rather then trying to save a few bucks by doing the oil change separately.
But the reality is this is tried and true Toyota/Japanese engineering from 20years ago, which is not special or unique. Toyota has been the #1 mass-market in the US for the last 15years, so don't think just because it has an L on the front, you have a unique or special car. It is as basic and generic as it gets, and EVERY mechanic can work on a toyota.
BMWs or german engineering are known for being more complex, or even the "new" toyotas designed after 2005 which take cartridge filters.
Here are my tips and opinions, you can take it or leave it as you please, but this is what I do.
1) The oil you should use for this car is 5w-30 as explained on the oil cap and instruction manual.
2) You can read the DIY for how do i do an oil change to see what this involves, either in the sticky or just on the internet. Remember this is a "standard" generic oil change with zero special instructions specific to toyota/lexus, not even needing to reset an oil reminder.
3) Any mechanic from DIY yourself, jiffylube, or a master toyota tech can do this and is considered simple maintenance. You will actually find jiffylube and quick oil places are not necessarily cheaper, they are more expensive because you are paying for convenience.
4) You can use conv. oil or synthetic oil; but you are best making your decision at parts store based on price and what is on sale. You can also consider that synthetic oil isn't really that much more expensive then conv. oil these days when bought on sale at the parts store, especially when divided over the 7500miles you will be using the oil. So I just buy whatever full synthetic oil is on sale if I need to restock.
You can bring your choice of oil and filter and pay labor only to 99% of shops including quick-lube places. However, at quicklube places they will only discount their price $3-$5 which is how much they value the bulk standard oil they put in.
5) The instructions manual says for normal service, even with conv. oil, the oil change interval is good for 7500miles. Even today's conv. oils far exceed the specs of the synthetic from the 1990s which was when this engine was designed (as long as it's not an uncertified off-shelf brand).
6) Filters are also not rocket science for this car. If you follow tip (4) you often end up getting a filter in your oilchange sale, so just pick the one appropriate for this car. OEM is also about the same $5 price if you make a purchase from a dealer on the internet or stop by one, but those filters aren't really special either. Although Fram gets a bad "rap" in the past, having a bad rap puts you on notice so that you're under extra scrutiny not to fail anymore, especially if you are just using your car normally.
7) You may want to consider finding a local mechanic whom you are going to form a relationship with, so you know who to go to when you are going to do other services. Personally, if I just need only an oil change, I either change my own oil, or go to a particular quicklube place where they bundle in a free car wash (I'm more picky about the quality of the car wash rather then the generic nature of the oil change). When I hit a maintenance where I want other stuff done, I just have my mechanic do it all in one shot, rather then trying to save a few bucks by doing the oil change separately.
Thanks for the advice. Will definitely take it into consideration
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06-01-14, 05:55 PM
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My GS -400 is my pampered baby , it has very low miles(27,100) and I use it only for my personal enjoyment , so having said that , I replace the oil and filter generally once a year or a little more , depending on if I like the color of the oil on the dipstick . Since I put about 1500 to 2000 miles a year or less (mostly less) I go for the color of the oil . If I see that it is getting darker , then it is time to change it . Of course , I have a another car for my normal use so my case is kind of irregular ... most people use their GS in a normal , regular way . I realize that replacing the oil because of its color is not the normal way to do it, but hell ... I like to have my oil transparent .
I use Mobil1 5-30W and I get the Toyota original filters from Sewell parts .
My recommendation : even if you use that car for work or for regular normal daily use , get the Toyota filters that are cheap and worth it . Oil : use always the best you can afford ... it always has worked for me on other cars as well and don`t stretch the amount of miles before doing an oil change ... do it every 5000 miles if you are using synthetic ...that is what I do on my other car . It is your engine , so take care of it to avoid costly repairs .
Lastly, if you can do it , do it yourself . You will have piece of mind knowing that you installed the oil filter correctly so it would not leak and the drain bolt is not overtightened , that you put in the correct quantity of oil and the brand that you wanted , so you would not have to worry about it at all until the next oil change .
I use Mobil1 5-30W and I get the Toyota original filters from Sewell parts .
My recommendation : even if you use that car for work or for regular normal daily use , get the Toyota filters that are cheap and worth it . Oil : use always the best you can afford ... it always has worked for me on other cars as well and don`t stretch the amount of miles before doing an oil change ... do it every 5000 miles if you are using synthetic ...that is what I do on my other car . It is your engine , so take care of it to avoid costly repairs .
Lastly, if you can do it , do it yourself . You will have piece of mind knowing that you installed the oil filter correctly so it would not leak and the drain bolt is not overtightened , that you put in the correct quantity of oil and the brand that you wanted , so you would not have to worry about it at all until the next oil change .
Last edited by josey88; 06-01-14 at 09:59 PM.
06-02-14, 08:19 PM
#9
I agree with josey88, if there is anyway you can change the oil yourself, do it. The hardest part about changing the oil is jacking up the car and deciding which oil to use. You drain the oil. There is a plug (bolt ) on the bottom front side of the oil pan to do that, you can't miss it. Once drained, put the plug back, tighten to specs. Next, remove the oil filter. It should have been put on hand-tight but you may need a filter wench to remove it. You'll also need something to catch the oil that will come out with it. Screen the new filter in its place. Be sure to put a little oil on the new filter's threads and rubber o-ring to help it seal and go on easier. Hand tighten only (but snugly). Lastly, go top side and add 5 quarts or so of your chosen oil. You may need to top it off depending on how much drained out. Keep in mind the filter will hold some as well. So be sure to check the oil after you crank the car and it has had a chance to circulate. Give it a shot and Good Luck!
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