angus

iTrader: (4)

Ok, as mentioned already It looks to me as if the bananags mod is redundant in it's execution, it is bypassing the factory relay when all that needs to happen is changing the ground on the relay (I think)

Can anyone confirm this?

RamAirRckt

I have some wiring from a friend at Lexus and it looks like the export models have a single wire grounded in the column to make the relay work normally, but in the US that wire is dependent on the headlight switch position.

Take the wire and simply ground it I am betting will make it work without the hassle of the extra relay.

I just haven't had time to take my column apart to try it. I don't want to post it and have someone try it and fry something. I can test it without risk, but I am into that sort of electronics and am comfortable testing it.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

i thought i saw a recent post or pic where this mod could be done from the smaller fuse box behind the ECU larger box? Maybe?

angus

iTrader: (4)

It stands to reason that the one terminal of the relay gets either it's ground or power interrupted by the hi-beam - on other cars I have seen that the fog relay gets it's ground from the H/B + circuit which of course switches to - when the H/B are off and becomes + when H/B are on, so changing the Gog relay's ground to a chassis ground point prevents them from turning off when H/B are on.

I am willing to bet the GS is similar and we just need to find out wether it's + or - that is interrupted and supply it to the relay.

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Still interested to see some more info on this, I'm sure I could do the bananags method but if it's as simple as you guys think I'd actually get around to it!

clos430

iTrader: (21)

^^^ Me too, I'm too lazy to do it the old fashion way! Lol.

RamAirRckt

Seeing the wiring diagram, I highly suspect the Lexus factory designed way is what I am thinking, but yes, it requires access to the headlight switch ONLY. Adding 1 wire is only what I think is needed. Worst case, cut one wire and add another. I hope to see if I can figure out what Lexus had in mind. One forum member has a GS from Europe and his fog lights stay on with the high beams. FACTORY. This means it HAS to be simple. They aren't going to reinvent the whole headlight/foglight system for only that functionality.

tedsterb

Just rewire them.

DosyBoy

iTrader: (1)

I've been meaning to do bananas diy I bought wire, but I have one question can someone please answer, Is that wire with those connectors coming out if it with those prong connectors already down by the kick panel or do I have to buy connectors and make that ?

angus

iTrader: (4)

Even if you do the mod as prescribed, you really only need to cut off the one tab on the relay and solder a wire to it - rather than relocate the relay and add all those wires.

angus

iTrader: (4)

OK, so according to his diagram, ternial he marked #2 only needs to have 12v+ (ignition power) supplied - so you can cut off the tab of the relay (leaving just enough to solder to) and jump that to a 12V+ source. I suspect this is where I saw someone just bend the relay tab over and connect to.

angus

iTrader: (4)

OK guys, I have figured it out, it was fairly easy for me and If you use the instructions in banana's link to take the column cover off it might take the average guy 20 min or so and you'll need a piece of wire and a ring terminal.

*It should be noted that the mod here will allow you to run the fogs with the high beams on, but not with the park lights on or with fogs only (no other lights on) - this is what I wanted because it has always bothered me that he fogs shut off on high beam. The fogs will function normally with the low beam on, but will not go out when the high beams are turned on or flashed.

What I did was determine that the foglight circuit gets it's ground from the hi/beam circuit + wire, so when you hit the high beams that wire will change from a ground to a + signal.

What I did was find the wire that supplies ground to the foglight switch which was fairly easy since the fog and headlight switch are integrated so the wires are all in one place.

You will see the wire (green/blk) in my pic. it is already pulled out.

All that is required is that you pull this grn/blk wire out and ground it. I simply put a ring terminal on and used the lower column screw to ground it. I used a small zip tie to secure the ring terminal in place while I installed the cover.

If you wanted to make the fogs run anytime I have not investigated how to do it and I am not sure if it'll be possible with such simplicity.

***On a side note, I was looking at the banana mod wiring and I am not really sure how that will work , does it disable the factory foglight switch? I looked at doing it and it seems like what he is telling you to do will not really work? I know others have done it so I am puzzled…

Edit with better instructions:

Pic 1 - you are going to extract this green/blk wire from the connector at the combo switch.

pic 2&3 - I made this little extension to connect to that green/blk wire.

pic 4 - after connecting the wire I made to the green/blk wire, I used the lower column cover screw as a grounding point for it.

angus

iTrader: (4)

I just re-read this post and yes, my above post is doing just what you say - it seems that in order to comply with the federal requirements here, Toyota used the hi-beam circuit as a ground instead of a chassis ground.

Interesting.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

so you need to drive with the high beams on in order to have fogs lights on? not sure I would like that

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

The fogs would come on normally, they just wouldn't shut off when you flip the high beams on like they do from the factory. A benefit for those of us with HID fogs who don't want the bulbs being shut off and refired every time you turn the high beams on and off. When I'm using the high beams I always have to turn the fogs off because its not good for the bulbs to be turning them on frequently when they're warmed up.