gs300 Idle/Start up problems
#16
Driver School Candidate
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Location: IL
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He obviously doesn't seem to be maintenance inclined bro. Just let em be. If he really feels "Chevy" is better he really doesn't know what he's talking about. Sin Cerebro. EVERYBODY knows Chevy is more garbage then anything else. Also sounds like he did a terrible job shopping for this car. Did no type of inspection or look around of the car. Should've got the feel of it, test drove it well, looked for leaks, got under there. But he didn't. And now he's suffering the aftermath. I hope it gets repaired soon. Or if not he can be driving a Cobalt, maybe Impala... lol
btw...
Everyone knows that chevys are better kido,
thats why there are sooo many of them on the road...come on mang....duhhh. Sin Cerebro
2 Million Mexicans in my city alone CANT BE WRONG.
Last edited by sidehide; 01-25-14 at 07:20 AM.
#17
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Don't blame the car, who was the previous owner and what kind of neglect was done to the car has to be taken into accountability, I can drive a Ferrari for 10 years and neglect it and will eventually start breaking down on me due to neglegience, doesn't mean it's a pos...
Wish you were right ,
I had the car for 4 years ,all maintenance done by Lexus, guess the car couldn't handle -15 in chi town, Lexus just told me its the ecu....so no need for the throttle body
ohh and I got the car form a girl down the street
scared to drive on the highway, daddy changes her oil type of situation.
Thanks for your time, appreciate the effort.
#18
Lexus Test Driver
Hey when your done with your crystal ball can I have the lotto # for tomorrow.?...that way we can still say u did something useful on this thread.
btw...
Everyone knows that chevys are better kido,
thats why there are sooo many of them on the road...come on mang....duhhh. Sin Cerebro
2 Million Mexicans in my city alone CANT BE WRONG.
#21
Driver School Candidate
I have exactly the same issue can some one shine some light on this?
btw same as op I also had to crank for 5-10 secs for the car to start and when the car's hot it 'll fire up the first time but still run rough for about 10 secs, and if you press down the acc pedal the idle will drop, but according to op this is might not be fuel related?
btw same as op I also had to crank for 5-10 secs for the car to start and when the car's hot it 'll fire up the first time but still run rough for about 10 secs, and if you press down the acc pedal the idle will drop, but according to op this is might not be fuel related?
Last edited by Sean628; 07-09-17 at 08:14 PM.
#22
I think your problem is at the pressure regulator .it has a special washer to go on one side. If the washer is not in the right position you will have fuel starvation/. The washer has wavy like groove.
#23
Driver School Candidate
my Throttle control motor reads 5.2ohm on room temp but 5.4ohm when bit hotter and all other 2 sensors are still within range, btw I also have low idle issues it's about 550-600rpm so I might change that as well
#24
Driver School Candidate
Wish you were right ,
I had the car for 4 years ,all maintenance done by Lexus, guess the car couldn't handle -15 in chi town, Lexus just told me its the ecu....so no need for the throttle body
ohh and I got the car form a girl down the street
scared to drive on the highway, daddy changes her oil type of situation.
Thanks for your time, appreciate the effort.
I had the car for 4 years ,all maintenance done by Lexus, guess the car couldn't handle -15 in chi town, Lexus just told me its the ecu....so no need for the throttle body
ohh and I got the car form a girl down the street
scared to drive on the highway, daddy changes her oil type of situation.
Thanks for your time, appreciate the effort.
#25
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
thanks for the reply will look into that, And i just did the trouble shooting according to this: http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etc...oubleshooting/
my Throttle control motor reads 5.2ohm on room temp but 5.4ohm when bit hotter and all other 2 sensors are still within range, btw I also have low idle issues it's about 550-600rpm so I might change that as well
my Throttle control motor reads 5.2ohm on room temp but 5.4ohm when bit hotter and all other 2 sensors are still within range, btw I also have low idle issues it's about 550-600rpm so I might change that as well
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Sean628 (09-27-17)
#26
Driver School Candidate
I had my mechanic scan the car last night and was told there's no code but the temp reading is bit higher than the actual feeling on the hose, so I'll probably order a new temp sensor, I'm in the middle of changing the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs and 2 of them have soaked tips so fingers crossed that's the prob, btw is the temp sensor on the bottom of the radiator?
Last edited by Sean628; 09-27-17 at 05:59 AM.
#27
Driver School Candidate
Is the one in red circle the correct one to replace? I checked the car can't see any temp sensor on the cylinder head next to the dipstick handle
Last edited by Sean628; 09-27-17 at 06:01 AM.
#28
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
Don't change that one. There are 2 temp sensors. Toyota calls both of them ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor but Autozone, Oreilly's, etc.... normally call the one in the radiator a fan switch.
- The one in the radiator just tells the electric fans to turn on once the coolant has reached a certain temperature.
- The other one mounted in the head feeds the temp gauge in the cluster and the ECU. That's the one that can affect stuff because if it is reading the temp wrong, it could lead the ECU to make the wrong calls on timing and fuel trim.
Oreilly's sells one for like $18. Since the sensor can affect your fuel mileage, I just went with the OEM sensor 89422-30030. Please note that there is a non-re-usable copper crush washer that goes between the sensor and head. The Oreilly one comes with the washer, but Toyota sells it separate from the sensor (90430-12005). I used a 19mm socket to get it off. You can't see it. It's under the intake near the front of the head right behind the water outlet. You have to feel for it.
The images below say gasket. ** It's a copper crush washer, don't know why they call it a "gasket"** I thought it came with the sensor. I spent $5 buying that stupid washer on ebay from a dealer because I couldn't find the dimensions for it online and the old one fell off and was lost when I removed the sensor. The dimensions for it is 16 mm OD, 12.2 mm ID, and 1mm thick if you try to source it somewhere other than the dealer.
- The one in the radiator just tells the electric fans to turn on once the coolant has reached a certain temperature.
- The other one mounted in the head feeds the temp gauge in the cluster and the ECU. That's the one that can affect stuff because if it is reading the temp wrong, it could lead the ECU to make the wrong calls on timing and fuel trim.
Oreilly's sells one for like $18. Since the sensor can affect your fuel mileage, I just went with the OEM sensor 89422-30030. Please note that there is a non-re-usable copper crush washer that goes between the sensor and head. The Oreilly one comes with the washer, but Toyota sells it separate from the sensor (90430-12005). I used a 19mm socket to get it off. You can't see it. It's under the intake near the front of the head right behind the water outlet. You have to feel for it.
The images below say gasket. ** It's a copper crush washer, don't know why they call it a "gasket"** I thought it came with the sensor. I spent $5 buying that stupid washer on ebay from a dealer because I couldn't find the dimensions for it online and the old one fell off and was lost when I removed the sensor. The dimensions for it is 16 mm OD, 12.2 mm ID, and 1mm thick if you try to source it somewhere other than the dealer.
Last edited by tiger4life; 09-28-17 at 07:35 PM.
#29
Driver School Candidate
thanks for the detailed reply I'll replace them when I get timing belt done which is in less than 5000kms, I still get low idles (about 800rpm and shaky engine) on cold start after changing spark plugs and valve cover gaskets, and 600rpm when engine warms up to operating temp, they might be separate issues but hope changing the sensor will help
#30
Driver School Candidate
So I just put a full tank petrol in for the first time I own the car, and surprisingly it starts without much effect the first time in the day and idles at 1100-1200rpm and consistently to be good, comparing to just before I filled it up it'd take 4-5 secs to crank and will only idle at about 800rpm causing engine to shake left and right in the engine bay, so it's definitely fuel related, so I just ordered the filter and sock, and waiting for my temp sensor to come, after that if symptoms persists I'll take it back to my mechanic to check the fuel pressure readings, see if I need to do fuel pump or pressure sensor or clean the injectors jeez just want a reliable daily so much effect and then there's this nitrogen canister I need to take off and find a place to re-charge lol
btw I've always kept the key in till the steering wheel in position and my stereo comes on and then crank and sometimes even for good 30sec before I start cranking and it has made no difference.
btw I've always kept the key in till the steering wheel in position and my stereo comes on and then crank and sometimes even for good 30sec before I start cranking and it has made no difference.
Last edited by Sean628; 10-03-17 at 07:36 AM.