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Brand spanking new to me '98 GS400

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Old 09-11-13, 02:22 PM   #16
Sampak
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Originally Posted by RamAirRckt View Post
Tip from my friend who is the Lexus Tech, he said to remove the foam in between the radiator and the condenser, he said dirt/debris gets loaded up in there and causes blockage of airflow in front of the radiator. It is better to have it missing and the debris fall to the ground.

Most of mine is missing on top, but when I get in there next I will see if I can remove.

On AC it needs the airflow thru the condenser or it will have poor AC performance. It will slow them down as you go faster or pressures are ok. But if AC pressures are higher it will command higher airflow from fans.
Yes the foam in between the 2 layers / cores on the sides is literally crumbling if I touch it just lightly. I'll get rid of it and also check for debris caught in between properly.
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Old 09-11-13, 03:58 PM   #17
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The foam that is the problem is the one at the bottom, you can't easily get to it without pulling it out from the bottom. So when you are in doing an oil change and have the belly pan off you can possibly get to it there, still I think you have to take some more off to get to it.

I'll be doing mine soon, has 23k on current Amsoil oil change.... getting time! Oh when you do oil change, the "big" old Toyota/Ford oil filter (Fram PH8A, Motorcraft FL1, Wix 51515) all fit. Great upgrade for filter and capacity. Being you are new to the car, I have done studies on the oil clearances, do NOT run thick oil, 5W30 max, I run 0W20. Thicker is NOT healthy for these super tight spec engines. I have around 35k miles or more on my engine with 0W20 and 5W20.
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Old 09-12-13, 01:47 AM   #18
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you only have 35k miles?

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Old 09-12-13, 10:24 AM   #19
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Thanks for the heads up on the oil. The previous owner said he used 5-30 synthetic, so I'll stick with that. BTW I've read several times now that FRAM oil filters are of crap quality. In any case I'll likely see what a dealer will charge me for an oil change so it's all kosher, because I don't have a garage (apartment) and doing my own oil changes would be quite the mess and time consuming business.
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Old 09-18-13, 01:48 AM   #20
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Nice gs. Welcome to club lexus
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Old 09-22-13, 02:45 PM   #21
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Don't forget that newer cars come from the factory running hot. They do this for burning emissions/ running cleaner. Also, the coolant system is pressurized (typically 15 lbs) and this raises the boiling point of the water. I wouldn't sweat a 210-220 engine temperature at all. If you're getting in the 230+ degree range, then you should shut the car off, let it cool naturally, and then, once it's cool, diagnose the problems and repair. (never rapid cool the metal as you can physically break it)
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Old 09-23-13, 07:53 AM   #22
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Don't forget that newer cars come from the factory running hot. They do this for burning emissions/ running cleaner. Also, the coolant system is pressurized (typically 15 lbs) and this raises the boiling point of the water. I wouldn't sweat a 210-220 engine temperature at all. If you're getting in the 230+ degree range, then you should shut the car off, let it cool naturally, and then, once it's cool, diagnose the problems and repair. (never rapid cool the metal as you can physically break it)
When you say "newer" I'm not sure if you mean brand new from the factory in recent years or new ones made as of the last few years, or you mean cars in general since the '90s.

But after 3 weeks now I have been monitoring the water temperature and it usually only seems to go up after I've come to a stop or am driving around slowly in a parking lot, at which point I have seen it get up to 205*F since I topped off the overflow reservoir.

Also since I took the car to the local Toyota dealer for an alignment, they instead happened to note down that the water pump is leaking when mentioning all the parts needed for the timing belt service...not sure if they wrote that in trying to make it seem urgent or if I really have a leak -- haven't checked or been able to see down there personally. I should check the coolant level and see how it's doing after 2 weeks since I topped it off.
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Old 09-23-13, 10:45 PM   #23
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When you say "newer" I'm not sure if you mean brand new from the factory in recent years or new ones made as of the last few years, or you mean cars in general since the '90s.

But after 3 weeks now I have been monitoring the water temperature and it usually only seems to go up after I've come to a stop or am driving around slowly in a parking lot, at which point I have seen it get up to 205*F since I topped off the overflow reservoir.

Also since I took the car to the local Toyota dealer for an alignment, they instead happened to note down that the water pump is leaking when mentioning all the parts needed for the timing belt service...not sure if they wrote that in trying to make it seem urgent or if I really have a leak -- haven't checked or been able to see down there personally. I should check the coolant level and see how it's doing after 2 weeks since I topped it off.
1- newer- in general since the 90's. Yes, all cars will raise temperature when stopped or driving slowly. Not much air is moving through the radiator at slow speeds. It's even more obvious with cars that use electric fans (versus clutch or direct drive fans), as the engine typically cycles them off when not needed.

2- I would check the coolant level daily and note the leakage, if any. Perhaps place a piece of masking tape vertically on your coolant reservoir and use a sharpie marker to mark the level, and check it each day after you drive and see if the level is going down. You can mark the level, or track the rate of loss if you wish, then remove the tape when done. Better to be safe than sorry... If it's a slight leak you can try something like a "Bars radiator leak" type product (available at any local auto parts store). they can seal small gasket leaks. However, if it's dribbling water (leaving puddles on the ground where you park or puddling up on the plastic panel underneath your engine) then you need to service it asap.
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Old 09-24-13, 08:31 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuske427 View Post
1- newer- in general since the 90's. Yes, all cars will raise temperature when stopped or driving slowly. Not much air is moving through the radiator at slow speeds. It's even more obvious with cars that use electric fans (versus clutch or direct drive fans), as the engine typically cycles them off when not needed.

2- I would check the coolant level daily and note the leakage, if any. Perhaps place a piece of masking tape vertically on your coolant reservoir and use a sharpie marker to mark the level, and check it each day after you drive and see if the level is going down. You can mark the level, or track the rate of loss if you wish, then remove the tape when done. Better to be safe than sorry... If it's a slight leak you can try something like a "Bars radiator leak" type product (available at any local auto parts store). they can seal small gasket leaks. However, if it's dribbling water (leaving puddles on the ground where you park or puddling up on the plastic panel underneath your engine) then you need to service it asap.
Thanks! I've contacted a local shop (Auto Science in DFW) that does Lexus and other select brand services and upgrades. I'll be taking it in to get the 90k timing belt/waterpump/pulley service done sometime this week or next and I'll see if they can't find anything along the way that really is wrong with the cooling.

And yes the GS400 has electric fans, with a turn ON/OFF/low type of setup from what little I've observed, so that may explain the heat build up. Maybe that explains why it seems to get hotter than I expect under the hood when it's warm. Seems like I can't remember my other cars being as radiating hot whenever I needed to check oil etc. Must be the age/big engine.
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Old 10-01-13, 06:01 PM   #25
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Welcome!!!!. I'm also in DFW area...
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Old 10-01-13, 06:01 PM
 
 
 
 
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