Transmission problem - code 76?
#1
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Transmission problem - code 76?
I've recent;y purchased a '99 GS300,
LOVELY car - but with a few niggles (for the equivalent of 500$, what can I expect? )
The ect/pwr light is flashing regularly - although the car seems to be changing gears OK.
I checked the transmission fluid, and it's reading a little high, and a little burned, so I intend to change it.
I have a fault code by bridging the Tc and E1 under the steerin wheel.
This gives me a code of "pause - 7- pause - 6" which I guess is 76?
That's by the ect/pwr light flashing.
All the other lights flash regularly, with no pauses, hence no fault?
I can't find a definition of code 76. all the lists of fault codes I find have 71,72, then 78
This is a european (UK) spec car if that makes any difference?
LOVELY car - but with a few niggles (for the equivalent of 500$, what can I expect? )
The ect/pwr light is flashing regularly - although the car seems to be changing gears OK.
I checked the transmission fluid, and it's reading a little high, and a little burned, so I intend to change it.
I have a fault code by bridging the Tc and E1 under the steerin wheel.
This gives me a code of "pause - 7- pause - 6" which I guess is 76?
That's by the ect/pwr light flashing.
All the other lights flash regularly, with no pauses, hence no fault?
I can't find a definition of code 76. all the lists of fault codes I find have 71,72, then 78
This is a european (UK) spec car if that makes any difference?
#2
Is the pause longer before the 7 or the 6? The number following the longer pause is the first digit.
In the repair manual, code 76 is listed as an electrical fault with shift solenoid 3. The manual says that without the use of this solenoid you get gears 1, 3, and 5.
In the repair manual, code 76 is listed as an electrical fault with shift solenoid 3. The manual says that without the use of this solenoid you get gears 1, 3, and 5.
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just as an extra question -
assuming I only have gears 1,3,5 -
how much damage could I do to the transmission if I run it like that for say 200 miles or a couple of weeks? (I don't do a lot of miles)
assuming I only have gears 1,3,5 -
how much damage could I do to the transmission if I run it like that for say 200 miles or a couple of weeks? (I don't do a lot of miles)
#6
I have P0763 and my car is a 3 speed right now, has 1, 3, and 5 but it shifts from 1 to 3 almost immediately. I did a drain a fill x 2 but it did not help so it appears I will have to have the solenoid replaced.
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For me, however:
Finally got around to sorting this out today.
Took the drain bolt out from the sump pan, and removed about 3qts of what would be best described as resembling dark coffee with the consistency of a McDs chocolate milkshake.
Put 2qts of the T-IV in, which brought the level to between the cold marks on the dipstick.
Went out for a 45 minute drive (about 25 miles) at all speeds from 5mph crawl to 70mph (honestly officer), then re-tested the fluid level at exactly mid-way between the hot marks.
Warning light isn't flashing, gear changes much smoother, and the "mental" button (PWR) works.
Will do the same again next week, and then the week after - that should have replaced over 50% of the old fluid.
So...
problem solved - I hope!
I'm guessing the old fluid had just gummed up the solenoid, and the new oil has cleaned it up just enough to let it work again.
Last edited by bigegg; 08-16-13 at 09:13 AM. Reason: replaced metric for imperial measures
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now leaning towards a complete drain, flush, and fill, via the oil cooler
I've read in a couple of places that this is NOT recommended - and in other places that it *is*.
comments???
I've read in a couple of places that this is NOT recommended - and in other places that it *is*.
comments???
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10l of ATF bought - that's around 10qts I think, certainly enough to completely refill.
I've done a lot of reading round, and it appears that running the engine for 10-12 seconds and having the car pump the oil out of the (disconnected) cooler hose is safe enough, rather than having the system pressure-flushed by machine.
just need to find some car ramps now - I sold my last set
mind you, I got the equivalent of US$1000 for them
I've done a lot of reading round, and it appears that running the engine for 10-12 seconds and having the car pump the oil out of the (disconnected) cooler hose is safe enough, rather than having the system pressure-flushed by machine.
just need to find some car ramps now - I sold my last set
mind you, I got the equivalent of US$1000 for them
#14
that shift solenoid is a common issue on these trannies. I'd rather have that problem than having the entire tranny going out on you. You can purchase a new one from Sewell with a discount I believe
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I can buy a complete, roadworthy, GS300 or even a LS400 for not much more than the solenoid!
Lexus in the UK are a virtually unknown brand on the second hand market, and as such are dirt cheap - don't tell anyone!