Fluid Maintenance Questions
02-13-13, 12:32 PM
#1
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Fluid Maintenance Questions
Guys,
I bought my 1998 GS400 when it had 96K miles. It now has 175K miles. I have been getting the engine oil, engine oil filter, engine air filter, cabin air filter changed regularly...also got the timing belt replaced at 100K miles... however I wasn't really aware that I needed to change anything else for preventive maintenance. I recently got the preventive maintenance schedule from oreilly auto parts and it appears that there is quite a bit of maintenance that I am missing, mainly the following
1. Transmission fluid change
2. Brake fluid change
3. Coolent change
4. Differential fluid change
The car is running fine without any problems but I want to do the maintenance that is necessary. I called Firestone and they said that at this milage of 175K, they will not change transmission fluid as the transmission may get messed up because of it and recommended that I leave it as is (heard the same from Meineki guy). For Differencial fluid, the Firestone said that my car doesn't need that change?
Can you please suggest
1. Do you recomment that I do something about the transmission fluid or my best bet is to leave it be - the main thng for me is to make sure that I don't have a big tramission related repair bill down the road.
2. Do you recommend that I change any of the other fluids above?
3. Is there any other preventive maintenance that is important enough that I should get it done?
Again, my car is running fine now without any problems but I want to make sure that I do atlease the important necessary preventive maintenance.
Thanks.
I bought my 1998 GS400 when it had 96K miles. It now has 175K miles. I have been getting the engine oil, engine oil filter, engine air filter, cabin air filter changed regularly...also got the timing belt replaced at 100K miles... however I wasn't really aware that I needed to change anything else for preventive maintenance. I recently got the preventive maintenance schedule from oreilly auto parts and it appears that there is quite a bit of maintenance that I am missing, mainly the following
1. Transmission fluid change
2. Brake fluid change
3. Coolent change
4. Differential fluid change
The car is running fine without any problems but I want to do the maintenance that is necessary. I called Firestone and they said that at this milage of 175K, they will not change transmission fluid as the transmission may get messed up because of it and recommended that I leave it as is (heard the same from Meineki guy). For Differencial fluid, the Firestone said that my car doesn't need that change?
Can you please suggest
1. Do you recomment that I do something about the transmission fluid or my best bet is to leave it be - the main thng for me is to make sure that I don't have a big tramission related repair bill down the road.
2. Do you recommend that I change any of the other fluids above?
3. Is there any other preventive maintenance that is important enough that I should get it done?
Again, my car is running fine now without any problems but I want to make sure that I do atlease the important necessary preventive maintenance.
Thanks.
02-13-13, 02:06 PM
#2
I agree with firestone leave the transmission as is, my brother went ahead and replaced the engine oil on his 2003 Mustang Cobras with 84k at a ford dealer ship it turned out to making a transmission noise until the oil thicken.
Leave it alone. Go to Sewell.com and buy a high mileage maintenance kit
Leave it alone. Go to Sewell.com and buy a high mileage maintenance kit
02-13-13, 02:12 PM
#3
Yep. Don't drop the pan on that tranny. I would probably do a drain and fill on it though. They have a drain plug on the tranny pan that will drain 3 or so quarts of fluid out. Just to add some new fluid to the old burnt stuff. You def do need to do a change on the rear diff fluid, as well as coolant, and brake fluid, and probably power steering as well. All fluids, all cheap, and all DIY friendly.
02-13-13, 02:52 PM
#5
trans drain and fill (make sure to use only toyota fluid)
coolant change with next timing belt wich should be at 190k
diff fluid should be changed every 50k but many people never do it
coolant change with next timing belt wich should be at 190k
diff fluid should be changed every 50k but many people never do it
02-13-13, 03:10 PM
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Thanks.I am still confused as the Meineki and Firestone both said not to do anything with transmission fluid - I did suggest not the total flush but just drain and fill and they still suggested not to go with it. I never had problem with my transmission but sometimes I do feel that when I change from P to D or P to R and vice versa, its not that smooth and I do hear and feel the blunt changing/shifting tranny sound. Should I still go ahead with the drain and fill?
Will get the differential fluid and coolant changed.
Would be great if you guys can give the names of most recommended fluid for each service. Will get the fluids at my own and get them changed by the local mechanic that I usually use.
Also, what the high mileage maintenance kit from sewell - what do I need that for? Any link to that?
Will get the differential fluid and coolant changed.
Would be great if you guys can give the names of most recommended fluid for each service. Will get the fluids at my own and get them changed by the local mechanic that I usually use.
Also, what the high mileage maintenance kit from sewell - what do I need that for? Any link to that?
02-13-13, 03:53 PM
#7
Yes. Do the drain and fill. What you don't want to do is a full pan removal, and filter replacement, or a flush (which you should NEVER do under any circumstances) You want to get the Toyota T-IV fluid from the dealer. I would also recommend the Toyota brand coolant as well. Probably need 3 jugs to be safe. As for the power steering, brake fluid, grab something from the parts store down the street. Having new fluid in there will make so much more of a difference than what brand the fluid is. I would go with some good rear diff fluid though. Get some Mobil-1. Ours is an open differential so there is no need for a fluid certified for "limited slip" I think the Mobile-1 comes in a 75w-90.
As for the tranny shifting noise. If it only makes noise going from P-D or P-R or R-D, and not when shifting through the gears as you drive, I might suspect U joints on the drive shaft. I would still do the drain and fill. Changing 3 of 14 quarts of fluid isn't going to make a world of difference either way, but if it were me, I'd spend the 1/2 hour and $14.00 it takes to do it.
As for the tranny shifting noise. If it only makes noise going from P-D or P-R or R-D, and not when shifting through the gears as you drive, I might suspect U joints on the drive shaft. I would still do the drain and fill. Changing 3 of 14 quarts of fluid isn't going to make a world of difference either way, but if it were me, I'd spend the 1/2 hour and $14.00 it takes to do it.
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02-13-13, 04:20 PM
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Same question, but, relating to a 1999 GS400 with 60,600k on it. It's super quiet and smooth shifting. But, since it's still low miles, I wonder if I should go ahead and do a trans flush and start from square one along with all other fluid changes to baseline?
02-14-13, 01:06 AM
#10
First, don't take a mechanic who works at Firestone's general car advice. That goes for the guy with the story about a brother with a mustang too. Go by the Lexus manual, or if you're going by a mechanic at least have the credentials of specializing in Toyota or at a minimum Japanese cars. If they are not confident enough to do the procedure, perhaps it's time to shop around for a different shop.
1) You should do drain fills with toyota t-IV. This is not expensive fluid, available at toyota, especially if you DIY. The procedure is arguably easier than an oil change, but a shop will charge you a pretty penny for this. If you DIY this, you can do this more often-even alongside every oil change if you have a problem, as a DF does not replace a majority of the fluid. If you're paying a shop, but car is running smoothly perhaps every 15k or 30k to refresh is more reasonable interval and still conservative.
2) You should replace your diff fluid with a high quality modern synthetic diff fluid at least once. Once done with an upgraded fluid you don't need to change this often-perhaps every 60k or even longer. You can go with Mobil1, Redline, Amsoil 75w-90. Bring this in if the shop does not carry fancy gear oils.
3) You should replace your brake fluid every 3years/30k miles or if brakes go squishy. It is also convenient if you time this maintenance when you need to do brake service. Brand here does not matter as much. You can just leave it as mechanics' choice and tell them use a good quality fluid and you will pay the couple bucks extra.
4) You should also replace a portion of your powersteering fluid regularly, such as every time you do an oil change. You can do this as a DIY of just the reservoir and just extract with a suction device, and then refill. Use a modern synthetic dextron compatible fluid. Do not use fluid marked Power Steering. Whatever looks fanciest at the store will do, the PS is not that picky, as long as it has Dextron compatible on the back. You will exchange about .25qts out each time. Do this yourself, don't pay a shop to do it.
5) Coolant you should do a replacement 60k miles with Toyota Red (Long Life), this can be a drain fill. You don't need your mechanic to perform a chemical "flush". If you want to change to Pink(Super Long Life) which is a 100k fluid, this is approved by Lexus as well. Bring them 3 gallons of Red along with 3gallons of distilled water (from grocery store). You should expect to get some fluid back.
One thing to note, the fluid level for coolant is fine being at the middle of the min/max mark. Don't freak out after the service and add extra fluid to bring it to max. You will just end up with some overflow and dried coolant residue. Of course if after driving for a bit, it ends up burping and goes to min, add fluid or water to get it to the middle.
1) You should do drain fills with toyota t-IV. This is not expensive fluid, available at toyota, especially if you DIY. The procedure is arguably easier than an oil change, but a shop will charge you a pretty penny for this. If you DIY this, you can do this more often-even alongside every oil change if you have a problem, as a DF does not replace a majority of the fluid. If you're paying a shop, but car is running smoothly perhaps every 15k or 30k to refresh is more reasonable interval and still conservative.
2) You should replace your diff fluid with a high quality modern synthetic diff fluid at least once. Once done with an upgraded fluid you don't need to change this often-perhaps every 60k or even longer. You can go with Mobil1, Redline, Amsoil 75w-90. Bring this in if the shop does not carry fancy gear oils.
3) You should replace your brake fluid every 3years/30k miles or if brakes go squishy. It is also convenient if you time this maintenance when you need to do brake service. Brand here does not matter as much. You can just leave it as mechanics' choice and tell them use a good quality fluid and you will pay the couple bucks extra.
4) You should also replace a portion of your powersteering fluid regularly, such as every time you do an oil change. You can do this as a DIY of just the reservoir and just extract with a suction device, and then refill. Use a modern synthetic dextron compatible fluid. Do not use fluid marked Power Steering. Whatever looks fanciest at the store will do, the PS is not that picky, as long as it has Dextron compatible on the back. You will exchange about .25qts out each time. Do this yourself, don't pay a shop to do it.
5) Coolant you should do a replacement 60k miles with Toyota Red (Long Life), this can be a drain fill. You don't need your mechanic to perform a chemical "flush". If you want to change to Pink(Super Long Life) which is a 100k fluid, this is approved by Lexus as well. Bring them 3 gallons of Red along with 3gallons of distilled water (from grocery store). You should expect to get some fluid back.
One thing to note, the fluid level for coolant is fine being at the middle of the min/max mark. Don't freak out after the service and add extra fluid to bring it to max. You will just end up with some overflow and dried coolant residue. Of course if after driving for a bit, it ends up burping and goes to min, add fluid or water to get it to the middle.
Last edited by raytseng; 02-14-13 at 01:19 AM.
02-14-13, 04:53 AM
#11
First, don't take a mechanic who works at Firestone's general car advice. That goes for the guy with the story about a brother with a mustang too. Go by the Lexus manual, or if you're going by a mechanic at least have the credentials of specializing in Toyota or at a minimum Japanese cars. If they are not confident enough to do the procedure, perhaps it's time to shop around for a different shop.
1) You should do drain fills with toyota t-IV. This is not expensive fluid, available at toyota, especially if you DIY. The procedure is arguably easier than an oil change, but a shop will charge you a pretty penny for this. If you DIY this, you can do this more often-even alongside every oil change if you have a problem, as a DF does not replace a majority of the fluid. If you're paying a shop, but car is running smoothly perhaps every 15k or 30k to refresh is more reasonable interval and still conservative.
2) You should replace your diff fluid with a high quality modern synthetic diff fluid at least once. Once done with an upgraded fluid you don't need to change this often-perhaps every 60k or even longer. You can go with Mobil1, Redline, Amsoil 75w-90. Bring this in if the shop does not carry fancy gear oils.
3) You should replace your brake fluid every 3years/30k miles or if brakes go squishy. It is also convenient if you time this maintenance when you need to do brake service. Brand here does not matter as much. You can just leave it as mechanics' choice and tell them use a good quality fluid and you will pay the couple bucks extra.
4) You should also replace a portion of your powersteering fluid regularly, such as every time you do an oil change. You can do this as a DIY of just the reservoir and just extract with a suction device, and then refill. Use a modern synthetic dextron compatible fluid. Do not use fluid marked Power Steering. Whatever looks fanciest at the store will do, the PS is not that picky, as long as it has Dextron compatible on the back. You will exchange about .25qts out each time. Do this yourself, don't pay a shop to do it.
5) Coolant you should do a replacement 60k miles with Toyota Red (Long Life), this can be a drain fill. You don't need your mechanic to perform a chemical "flush". If you want to change to Pink(Super Long Life) which is a 100k fluid, this is approved by Lexus as well. Bring them 3 gallons of Red along with 3gallons of distilled water (from grocery store). You should expect to get some fluid back.
One thing to note, the fluid level for coolant is fine being at the middle of the min/max mark. Don't freak out after the service and add extra fluid to bring it to max. You will just end up with some overflow and dried coolant residue. Of course if after driving for a bit, it ends up burping and goes to min, add fluid or water to get it to the middle.
1) You should do drain fills with toyota t-IV. This is not expensive fluid, available at toyota, especially if you DIY. The procedure is arguably easier than an oil change, but a shop will charge you a pretty penny for this. If you DIY this, you can do this more often-even alongside every oil change if you have a problem, as a DF does not replace a majority of the fluid. If you're paying a shop, but car is running smoothly perhaps every 15k or 30k to refresh is more reasonable interval and still conservative.
2) You should replace your diff fluid with a high quality modern synthetic diff fluid at least once. Once done with an upgraded fluid you don't need to change this often-perhaps every 60k or even longer. You can go with Mobil1, Redline, Amsoil 75w-90. Bring this in if the shop does not carry fancy gear oils.
3) You should replace your brake fluid every 3years/30k miles or if brakes go squishy. It is also convenient if you time this maintenance when you need to do brake service. Brand here does not matter as much. You can just leave it as mechanics' choice and tell them use a good quality fluid and you will pay the couple bucks extra.
4) You should also replace a portion of your powersteering fluid regularly, such as every time you do an oil change. You can do this as a DIY of just the reservoir and just extract with a suction device, and then refill. Use a modern synthetic dextron compatible fluid. Do not use fluid marked Power Steering. Whatever looks fanciest at the store will do, the PS is not that picky, as long as it has Dextron compatible on the back. You will exchange about .25qts out each time. Do this yourself, don't pay a shop to do it.
5) Coolant you should do a replacement 60k miles with Toyota Red (Long Life), this can be a drain fill. You don't need your mechanic to perform a chemical "flush". If you want to change to Pink(Super Long Life) which is a 100k fluid, this is approved by Lexus as well. Bring them 3 gallons of Red along with 3gallons of distilled water (from grocery store). You should expect to get some fluid back.
One thing to note, the fluid level for coolant is fine being at the middle of the min/max mark. Don't freak out after the service and add extra fluid to bring it to max. You will just end up with some overflow and dried coolant residue. Of course if after driving for a bit, it ends up burping and goes to min, add fluid or water to get it to the middle.
1) Correct. Only use T-IV or the Mobil 3309 if you can find it. It's like a buck less than the T-IV (well it used to be). Mobil makes the fluid for Toyota. Do drain & fill, but no full fluid transfer because it WILL shift around the deposit in your pan, which could cause damage. In your case I will do this method every 10-15k and your transmission will love it.
2) Correct. This is a easy DIY, but if you are not strong you won't be able to break the torque on the bolt, due to the heat over the years. I'm a big guy and it took me awhile to break it. If you do this yourself, MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE TOP FILL BOLT OFF FIRST BEFORE YOU DRAIN IT. If you can't get it lose, then you will be looking ******ty like Mr. Nitty. I did this and used Mobil syn gear oil, but this job was very messy and smelly. I will pay someone to do this for me next time.
3) I don't know if I really agree with the 30k miles, but it def. would not hurt to change it early though. You can also do the "turkey baster" method to gradually add new fluid over time. If not as good as the bleeding the brake, but it's better than nothing and actually what I will be doing. I bought a suction pump/needle from Wal-Mart that I use for my PS fluid replacement that I will use for the brakes.
4) Agree. Use the "turkey baster" method to do this. Something he left out, do NOT suck it completely dry. You will introduce air into the system, so leave a small low level and add the new fluid. I used 1 full quart of Mobil 1 syn atf over a month span. Once done, turn the steering wheel left/right.
5) totally agree. This should be done now in your case. I had mine changed during my 100k timin belt service and I honestly probably won't mess with it again until my 200k..maybe 175k due to the low amount of miles I'm putting on my car now.
02-14-13, 11:00 AM
#12
I don't necessarily agree with the advice to add brake fluid. You should not need to add fluid to your brake system. If you are losing brake fluid, you have a serious problem.
The reason the level decreases is because the pads wear. But if you started at max with new pads, then it will be OK that the level decreases until you change the pads.
Opening the brake reservoir at all, is working against you, as the nature of brake fluid is that it absorbs water. So just allowing new fresh air in there is degrading the fluid.
The reason the level decreases is because the pads wear. But if you started at max with new pads, then it will be OK that the level decreases until you change the pads.
Opening the brake reservoir at all, is working against you, as the nature of brake fluid is that it absorbs water. So just allowing new fresh air in there is degrading the fluid.
02-15-13, 10:08 AM
#14
You shouldnt add any additives. The strategy with the Toyota t iv fluid which is relatively cheap is to change it more frequently instead. If you feel the need to do some thing extra, you should use a more expensive modern synthetic trans. fluid that is type t iv compatible . Search the forum, but amsoil is a popular one, and so is maxlife, maybe redline too. Make sure it specifically says t iv on it . But eventually people see it as not being cost effective and just changing it more frequently and with the cheaper t iv ends up being best for that.
Last edited by raytseng; 02-15-13 at 10:12 AM.