oztiks

I am sure this has been done to death, but figured I would post this up anyway. Just got all this wrapped up a few days ago (well, mostly) and figured i'd share some pics.

The old install was a Kenwood KVT-910 DVD w/ 2 10's in a huge box mounted in the trunk. The headunit began to fail as did the "brain" for it, so I figured it was time to redo the whole thing.

I was given a Pioneer AVIC-D3 w/ (built in) GPS, + IPOD + Bluetooth + XM Radio

Ended up adding a reverse cam as well.

Only thing I ended up purchasing was the JDM double din kit from Carson; I can't comment on the quality of the metra(?) kit out there but I can say that I am *immensely* happy with the Carson kit. Brackets and faceplate all come in their own bags with toyota OEM part #'s on them. The double din kit does not just snap in to the existing A/C / stereo mount; it replaces it:

Stock bracket vs Double DIN bracket (double din bracket is just laying over stock bracket in this picture)




Headunit mounted:



CD Changer:



Showing Double DIN Kit excellent fitment:







Rear camera view from interior:



Rear camera exterior view:




Amp + sub mounting:





Component info:

AVIC-D3X -
Bluetooth module (mounted behind glove compartment)
XM tuner (mounted below passenger seat)
6 disc changer (mounted in OEM location - it fits, barely!)
Infinity Kappa 255a (50W RMS x 4, 150 W RMS x 1) mounted on trunk front wall
Infinity Kappa perfect 10 - infinite baffle/free air mounted - mounted on TOP of rear deck

The GPS antenna is mounted under the dash and sitting on top of the A/C vent registers - gets perfect signal (so far); the XM antenna is mounted on the rear-deck under the center high mount light (got idea from the LS guys).

Bluetooth mic is mounted where the 3 buttons for homelink control are. Didn't get a picture of this.

All interior speakers are still the stock pioneer (non ML) and cranking away for 10 years so far.

Again, I know this isn't a very exciting post but figured i'd throw it out there anyway.

1sWt2GS

iTrader: (6)

is that the nd-bc5?

how much did you get the reverse cam for and how did you install it? im trying to add a reverse cam (already have a z130bt HU installed)

bigwes

Looks nice homie?

rgarjr

iTrader: (1)

yeah its a no brainer to get the japanese double din kit when installing a head unit.

1sWt2GS

iTrader: (6)

Not necessarily. I went with the Metra (JDM color wasnt going to match with my sport design anyways)

Ended up just Carbon Fiber wrapping it.

addzlex

That looks awesome

Quick question, which wires did you use from the standard car loom to power the electric antenna if you have on?

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

Nice clean install...

Tank

iTrader: (19)

How's that sub sound since you got it free air?

Tank

iTrader: (19)

No electric antenna..

matt21484

How does that sub mount to the rear deck? Would appreciate a pic of that if you have one. Do you have the amp powering the sub and using the HU amp to power the stock speakers?

addzlex

No problem, thanks

Where and how did you feed the reverse camera wire? Is it fed through the number plate light, or did you drill a hole?

Thanks

oztiks

Nope - it's an Advent (formerly audiovox?) CAM330. I think it was roughly $125? My friend installed it for me; he uses them on all the Maserati's he gets from the dealership that want reverse cameras too. It's not the smallest camera, but I am pretty happy with the image quality and the view of the camera. He mounted it in between the two tag lights, I know he had to remove the trunk finisher (the piece that surrounds the trunk key hole) and do a little manual grinding down of the bracket/ screws for the camera in order to get the finisher to fit flush. He did an awesome job, though! I do recommend the cam - but again, it may take a little bit of modification to get it fitted perfectly.

I struggled with this one originally, too! The GS does have a "power antenna" in the rear window (non mechanical); some diagrams/references online imply that there is a trigger for the antenna. It does NOT appear to be true, the antenna appears to be triggered by something else other than the stereo / OEM loom. In short, we didn't wire anything for antenna power. I did successfully get a little zap from the antenna lead so I am pretty confident it is being powered constantly, from somewhere. Hope this helps.

Thanks!

I personally think it sounds good. My friend who did the install said it "lacks punch" but I do disagree. It definitely doesn't compare to the 2x10 box configuration that was in there before, but I didn't expect it to. I have the OEM pioneer deck sub, which was an option, but I really didn't think it would survive the amp. Also, I had the subs from the box sitting around and wanted to re-purpose them. It does lack a little bit of 'punch' but hits fairly deeply. These subs were originally designed to be mounted in free air / IB (as an option) as well, which I guess is harder to find these days with new subs? I have found between tuning the crossover on the AVIC (which is actually MUCH more limited than the crossover on my old Kenwood KVT) I can get a pretty satisfying sound.

Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the top of the deck before I put it back on - I was in a hurry to get things reassembled so didn't get pictures of that stuff (but should have);
I got very lucky in the sense that I thought i was going to have to mount the sub UNDER the rear deck to a piece of MDF as a lot of people have done, but alas, I tried sitting the sub in the factory opening - from the top - and it fit nearly perfectly. I watched it without the rear deck / grill on for a little while to see how much movement the sub generated - decent amount, but not crazy. I then did a little comparison and we found out that sliding the rear deck back over the sub actually fit PERFECTLY and doesn't impede the subwoofer movement.

The sub is screwed to the rear deck, using the subwoofer's factory screw holes. Nothing glamorous or extravagant but highly functional. It also saved about 4" of depth in the trunk, being able to top mount the sub.

As for the amp - I am powering everything from the Infinity 5 channel. It's 50 watts RMS x 4 & 200 watts RMS x 1. The AVIC is something like 22 watts RMS x 4: (quoted from the manual)

Vs the outboard Infinity amp:

The infinity also has independent (front/rear/sub) completely adjustable HPF/LPF filters (as it should) that allow me to tune the front/rear crossovers a little better - as I said, the AVIC is a little disappointing in this respect, so it's nice to have the option on the amp.
In the "old configuration" I was only using the Infinity to drive the interior speakers, not the subs, because in sealed configuration the subs played nicely around ~1000W RMS (If I recall properly); whereas the subwoofer is SIGNIFICANTLY downrated when you go into an infinite baffle configuration. 200 watts seems to make it quite happy.

Hope this helps!

oztiks

I wasn't there when he pulled off the trim piece, but the wire is routed under it rather than through it. I'm not sure how exactly it passes through into the trunk - I suspect there is an existing opening he used.
Also, the camera is powered by ACC rather than reverse lights. I personally don't like the idea of tapping the reverse lights for the camera power - but that's just me. Also, since the headunit supports viewing the camera at any time (not just when in "R"); to be able to use that feature the camera needs to be constantly powered.

Here's two more pics of the camera cable routing/mount:

addzlex

Thanks a lot for the effort of posting the images for me

I wonder if this panel is easy to remove as I need to do this on Wednesday. I suspect I'll also need to take off the back plastic material under the bootlid to feed the wiring - hope it doesn't prove too difficult.

Thanks for your help

jeepandlex

Dude, looks nice. U by pass it???? I have a bypassed x920bt. It's not as simple to operate as the D3. Rather than just turning the volume ****, I have to repeatedly press the UP/DOWN keys... Wait till u get XM. and then the B2B and sync up your cell. That thing look nice when all of the audio/video options are lit up in the first menu...
Not really a fan of the camera sticking out. When I did that with my Jeep, the first time I came out to find my camera dangling by a wire. The second, it was gone completely LOL. Good thing it was only $13.
My solution was to drill out one of the bottom holes in your license plate.....and keep on right thru the trunk. Rust proof it, mount a camera through the hole. Mount your license plate back on with the bottom hole drilled out. You have to really look to see the camera. Good thing is, if you take out the cam, you can plug a rubber grommet in the hole and the plate hides it all...