Proper Way Of Brake Bleeding GS400
03-13-12, 08:44 AM
#1
Proper Way Of Brake Bleeding GS400
Hello all CLmembers,
To make it short, yes, I have seached the forum for this topics. However, it did not have a clear or proper way of doing it. My MBC/booster pump wend death on me and I am about to install the new one this week. Stealer charge me $475 to diagnose, install and brake bleed.
1) Some CLmembers suggested that we turn the key to on position and don't start the car and some said start the car and have it running since out GS equiped with the ABS system.
2) Some suggested that we disable the ABS. How? Some said to pull out the ABS fuse.
3) Some siad we need to bleed the front passenger and driver sides then right and left rear due the ABS sytem. Others suggested that we bleed like the traditional way which the farest first; rear right and rear left, then front right and left.
4) Some said do not pump the brake paddle and let the actuator do all the work, other said pump, pump and hold, but don't push it all the way down. If we pump too much, we might blown the seal.
5) The manual required the computer to be connected to the ABS system to do the bleeding
If any one of us know the proper way of doing GS400 brake bleeding, pls advise all of us including me which I am about to do it this weekend, and I don't want to ruin $2000 dollars ABS whole unit system. Pls CLmembers help us out here, esspecially me, I need your help and advises of doing it the correct way not harming the ABS system unit. I'm really appreciate all the helps and advises CLmembers give out. Thanks.
To make it short, yes, I have seached the forum for this topics. However, it did not have a clear or proper way of doing it. My MBC/booster pump wend death on me and I am about to install the new one this week. Stealer charge me $475 to diagnose, install and brake bleed.
1) Some CLmembers suggested that we turn the key to on position and don't start the car and some said start the car and have it running since out GS equiped with the ABS system.
2) Some suggested that we disable the ABS. How? Some said to pull out the ABS fuse.
3) Some siad we need to bleed the front passenger and driver sides then right and left rear due the ABS sytem. Others suggested that we bleed like the traditional way which the farest first; rear right and rear left, then front right and left.
4) Some said do not pump the brake paddle and let the actuator do all the work, other said pump, pump and hold, but don't push it all the way down. If we pump too much, we might blown the seal.
5) The manual required the computer to be connected to the ABS system to do the bleeding
If any one of us know the proper way of doing GS400 brake bleeding, pls advise all of us including me which I am about to do it this weekend, and I don't want to ruin $2000 dollars ABS whole unit system. Pls CLmembers help us out here, esspecially me, I need your help and advises of doing it the correct way not harming the ABS system unit. I'm really appreciate all the helps and advises CLmembers give out. Thanks.
03-13-12, 09:38 AM
#2
The 300 and the 400/430 should be the same as the pumps are the same except for the front sensor. Someone posted the install/removal in a thread.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...nder-99-a.html
For future reference to others trying to do the same, I found this post from the UK lexus forum, by Simon12.
The fitting of the unit was fiddly but, in my experience fairly straight forward mechanically. Here's a brief description of the process:
1. Get syringe and remove brake fluid from the reservoir.
2. Put some old rags/cloth whatever underneath and around the boost assembly.
3. Disconnect the ecu and power connectors from the unit and unscrew the throttle cable bracket.
4. Loosen the nuts for the brake lines - 2 at the front of the unit, 2 and the side (don't touch the red coloured one underneath as that's from the accumulator) - and pull those line out of the unit.
5. Get inside the car under the steering wheel and remove the parts of the fascia obscuring access to the brake pedal (iirc 3 part of fascia come off and you'll need to disconnect the petrol/boot switch unit).
6. Remove the brake pedal spring and r-clip etc. that connects the master cylinder with brake pedal and then unscrew the 4 nuts holding the booster unit in place on the chassis - the one on the top left side is very difficult to get to.
7. Lift/pull out the old unit - gently and carefully so as not to get brake fluid all over the place.
8. Put the new unit back in. in reverse order - the 4 nuts holding the master cylinder assembly to the chassis are tightened to 18nm iirc (but do check as my memory may be incorrect).
9. Fill the new unit with brake fluid and then with ignition still of pump the brake pedal more than 40 times.
10. Reset the abs ecu - this is a must as the unit doesn't work correctly if there are critical error codes still stored.
11. Bleed the brake system - this is where it is different from the procedures I've seen written about this but here goes as it is the proper method according to the lexus manual:
- with ignition off pump pedal rapidly more than 40 times - the pedal should get heavier to pump during the process
- turn the ignition on and listen to the accumulator pump which should turn off within 30-40 seconds.
- now pump rapidly the brake pedal 20 or more times (warning buzzer will go off and should then go off after a little while)
- with the ignition remaining ON bleed the the brake system but start with the front right (i.e. drivers side), then front left side. Going on to the rear, start with left side and then right side.
(as a note while bleeding the system it isn't necessary to pump the pedal several times before opening the bleed valve because the pump and accumulator maintain system pressure. this also can't be done if you're bleeding the system on your own). You will hear the pump switching on and off during this procedure which is entirely correct.
- make sure you have a lot of brake fluid I used nearly three liters in total due to some stubborn air pockets, so be patient and always put the lid back on the master cylinder reservoir.
- if you're doing the bleeding on your own an ideal tool is the europat vizibleed - it's about a fiver from Halfords. no need for expensive pressurised kits.
- with this kit you can press the pedal a few times then walk round the car to see if there are bubbles in the tube, top up the reservoir and then return for more pedal pumping - just don't open the bleed nipples too far as fliud may seep out there instead of the tube.
- finally, once bled, turn the ignition off and again pump the brake pedal more than 40 times and check fluid level, topping up as necessary. You're done.
Hope this helps,
Simon
apparently thats worked above for alot of people.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...nder-99-a.html
Originally Posted by streetz
For future reference to others trying to do the same, I found this post from the UK lexus forum, by Simon12.
The fitting of the unit was fiddly but, in my experience fairly straight forward mechanically. Here's a brief description of the process:
1. Get syringe and remove brake fluid from the reservoir.
2. Put some old rags/cloth whatever underneath and around the boost assembly.
3. Disconnect the ecu and power connectors from the unit and unscrew the throttle cable bracket.
4. Loosen the nuts for the brake lines - 2 at the front of the unit, 2 and the side (don't touch the red coloured one underneath as that's from the accumulator) - and pull those line out of the unit.
5. Get inside the car under the steering wheel and remove the parts of the fascia obscuring access to the brake pedal (iirc 3 part of fascia come off and you'll need to disconnect the petrol/boot switch unit).
6. Remove the brake pedal spring and r-clip etc. that connects the master cylinder with brake pedal and then unscrew the 4 nuts holding the booster unit in place on the chassis - the one on the top left side is very difficult to get to.
7. Lift/pull out the old unit - gently and carefully so as not to get brake fluid all over the place.
8. Put the new unit back in. in reverse order - the 4 nuts holding the master cylinder assembly to the chassis are tightened to 18nm iirc (but do check as my memory may be incorrect).
9. Fill the new unit with brake fluid and then with ignition still of pump the brake pedal more than 40 times.
10. Reset the abs ecu - this is a must as the unit doesn't work correctly if there are critical error codes still stored.
11. Bleed the brake system - this is where it is different from the procedures I've seen written about this but here goes as it is the proper method according to the lexus manual:
- with ignition off pump pedal rapidly more than 40 times - the pedal should get heavier to pump during the process
- turn the ignition on and listen to the accumulator pump which should turn off within 30-40 seconds.
- now pump rapidly the brake pedal 20 or more times (warning buzzer will go off and should then go off after a little while)
- with the ignition remaining ON bleed the the brake system but start with the front right (i.e. drivers side), then front left side. Going on to the rear, start with left side and then right side.
(as a note while bleeding the system it isn't necessary to pump the pedal several times before opening the bleed valve because the pump and accumulator maintain system pressure. this also can't be done if you're bleeding the system on your own). You will hear the pump switching on and off during this procedure which is entirely correct.
- make sure you have a lot of brake fluid I used nearly three liters in total due to some stubborn air pockets, so be patient and always put the lid back on the master cylinder reservoir.
- if you're doing the bleeding on your own an ideal tool is the europat vizibleed - it's about a fiver from Halfords. no need for expensive pressurised kits.
- with this kit you can press the pedal a few times then walk round the car to see if there are bubbles in the tube, top up the reservoir and then return for more pedal pumping - just don't open the bleed nipples too far as fliud may seep out there instead of the tube.
- finally, once bled, turn the ignition off and again pump the brake pedal more than 40 times and check fluid level, topping up as necessary. You're done.
Hope this helps,
Simon
Last edited by justablkv8; 03-13-12 at 10:12 AM.
03-13-12, 01:21 PM
#3
Im gonna simplify it for you, if you cant follow this or have questions, id say you have no business touching the car and should take it to the stealer ship.
1, Front - Must pump to bleed
2. Rear - Pump once and hold, the master will do the rest.
3. Ignition ON or Starting the car is the SAME THING, u need power to the master to open up the ABS solenoid.
4. Bleed order as you would bleed any car.
5. NEVER let the Master run dry or fall below the Min line, or you get the LOVELY beep and ABS/VSC waring light will be etched in your ECU.
6. NEVER mixed different DOTs.
7. PEACE OUT...
1, Front - Must pump to bleed
2. Rear - Pump once and hold, the master will do the rest.
3. Ignition ON or Starting the car is the SAME THING, u need power to the master to open up the ABS solenoid.
4. Bleed order as you would bleed any car.
5. NEVER let the Master run dry or fall below the Min line, or you get the LOVELY beep and ABS/VSC waring light will be etched in your ECU.
6. NEVER mixed different DOTs.
7. PEACE OUT...
03-14-12, 11:18 AM
#4
Im gonna simplify it for you, if you cant follow this or have questions, id say you have no business touching the car and should take it to the stealer ship.
1, Front - Must pump to bleed
2. Rear - Pump once and hold, the master will do the rest.
3. Ignition ON or Starting the car is the SAME THING, u need power to the master to open up the ABS solenoid.
4. Bleed order as you would bleed any car.
5. NEVER let the Master run dry or fall below the Min line, or you get the LOVELY beep and ABS/VSC waring light will be etched in your ECU.
6. NEVER mixed different DOTs.
7. PEACE OUT...
1, Front - Must pump to bleed
2. Rear - Pump once and hold, the master will do the rest.
3. Ignition ON or Starting the car is the SAME THING, u need power to the master to open up the ABS solenoid.
4. Bleed order as you would bleed any car.
5. NEVER let the Master run dry or fall below the Min line, or you get the LOVELY beep and ABS/VSC waring light will be etched in your ECU.
6. NEVER mixed different DOTs.
7. PEACE OUT...
03-15-12, 06:55 AM
#5
for the front, pump once hold, more than that will agitate fluid and introduce bubbles. once you get a firm pedal you can pump 3 times and hold but at a steady pace only a couple of times.
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Gelux (06-16-19)
07-02-12, 05:26 AM
#10
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I'm about to try this out. My reservoir dropped below the min line, so I gather it's going to be a bit tricky. If I follow these instructions, then it sounds like I don't need to specifically bleed out the master cylinder, all of the bleeding can be done at the calipers. Is that correct?
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