pissed off agravated and confused gs300 wont start
#16
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Ya I'm trying to avoid it. But I started the car pulled down drive way went to go to werk after breakfast and it quit starting all warning come on. The security Is blinking red. Factory alarm, on 98k on her she a 98. I think crank sensor is ruled seeing as how I have spark. I guess I'll also check compression on the motor today. Checked timing by having it at tdc and cam gears lining up at appropriate mark, cause I also marked the gears in the past.
#17
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Any codes being thrown? You're really shooting in the dark right now. Hook up a scanner and report back to us with the codes.
- Your starter is turning freely, so the engine is not seized and the starter is working properly.
- Engine is getting spark and fuel, so key security signal is good to go. However, the security light should not be blinking.
- Timing is on point, but realistically these cars still start with the timing being off a tooth or two. Won't run the best but will still start up.
- You have fuel and spark, so crank sensor should be fine. The car will still start with no cam sensor in, but crank must be present and working or else there will be no fuel/spark.
IF everything is working properly and you don't throw any codes, I'm guessing it MIGHT be the igniter. Weak igniter doesn't always register on the CEL all the time. Kind of sounds like you have symptoms of a bad ignition system if it sputters when trying to start up. Does it smell like rich/raw fuel when you keep trying to crank for a while?
Also, if you did flood the engine with fuel, you will need to pour some oil(1-2 cap fulls) down each cylinder. If the cylinder walls are dry from fuel washing them, you will have VERY weak compression.
- Your starter is turning freely, so the engine is not seized and the starter is working properly.
- Engine is getting spark and fuel, so key security signal is good to go. However, the security light should not be blinking.
- Timing is on point, but realistically these cars still start with the timing being off a tooth or two. Won't run the best but will still start up.
- You have fuel and spark, so crank sensor should be fine. The car will still start with no cam sensor in, but crank must be present and working or else there will be no fuel/spark.
IF everything is working properly and you don't throw any codes, I'm guessing it MIGHT be the igniter. Weak igniter doesn't always register on the CEL all the time. Kind of sounds like you have symptoms of a bad ignition system if it sputters when trying to start up. Does it smell like rich/raw fuel when you keep trying to crank for a while?
Also, if you did flood the engine with fuel, you will need to pour some oil(1-2 cap fulls) down each cylinder. If the cylinder walls are dry from fuel washing them, you will have VERY weak compression.
#18
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Ya I'm trying to avoid it. But I started the car pulled down drive way went to go to werk after breakfast and it quit starting all warning come on. The security Is blinking red. Factory alarm, on 98k on her she a 98. I think crank sensor is ruled seeing as how I have spark. I guess I'll also check compression on the motor today. Checked timing by having it at tdc and cam gears lining up at appropriate mark, cause I also marked the gears in the past.
Security light should blink when there is no key present. Once the correct key is inserted, the light should go out completely. I wouldn't do anything else before you figure this out.
#19
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i had this same problem wih a brand new mitsubishi eclipse> the car would crank fine but wouldn't start and if it did it would rattle a couplle seconds and die out again. it was a bad oxygen sensor.
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Any chance that someone found a solution for this scenario? I'm actually having the same problem. It was running until I washed it. I think I got something wet. I checked the the fuse panel by the battery and the fuse panel by the drivers side fender. No blown fuses were found. Just looking for some ideas on what to check next?
-Engine cranks but won't start
-Dash lights come on (oil, check engine,etc.)
-There is a slight humming/buzzing sound coming from the intake. (If i unplug the tps sensor or throttle control this sound stops)
-ABS master cylinder seems to be making an intermittent screeching sound for about 5 seconds and then functions normally.
I'm unable to drive it to Autozone to read the codes. I'm wonderring if there are any common problems that cause this in this model?
With the back seat cover removed should I be able to hear the fuel pump running with the key in the on position?
-Engine cranks but won't start
-Dash lights come on (oil, check engine,etc.)
-There is a slight humming/buzzing sound coming from the intake. (If i unplug the tps sensor or throttle control this sound stops)
-ABS master cylinder seems to be making an intermittent screeching sound for about 5 seconds and then functions normally.
I'm unable to drive it to Autozone to read the codes. I'm wonderring if there are any common problems that cause this in this model?
With the back seat cover removed should I be able to hear the fuel pump running with the key in the on position?
#30
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FIXED IT! So it turns out that the GS wouldn't start because I had previously removed the internal chip from the key with the intention of changing the key remote battery. I replaced this, reassembled the key, and the car started right up. Hope this is helpful to someone else who also didn't realize that this would cause this issue.