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Im in the same place regarding the ecu. Not sure what will keep all the factory things going. Ive been assured an AEM will work. But some people are telling me I need to keep the stock and some saying not..
just for reference in case you can use any of the info on your build...
at the moment it is running the crank and coolant sensors doubled up. the only noticeable thing i can see is that my coolant temp reading on my haltech is about 6 degrees different to my defi water temp gauge (they are side by side).
Aside from that, everything seems to be working as normal so far besides the speedo, air con control (no gas to test) and the fuel gauge (only put about 20L in to start it. it is showing a fuel level similar to that amount, but cant say for sure until i fill it up).
Although i havent driven it yet, i have had it up to operating temp a few times now and all seems ok.
As far as the speedo goes, after looking through the wiring manual i bought, i have discovered that the 1UZ models did infact get its speed signal from the ABS system, while the 2JZ models used the signal from the transmission.
Im wondering if having a working speedo is as easy supplying the speed input on the ecu with a signal from the ABS unit.
I havent looked into much else at the moment as i'm more or less waiting to see if any problems arise during the tune (as far as the commoning of sensors etc).
So basically the factory ECU controls:
everything on the dash
air con
The Haltech controls everything else including the fans for the radiator and my oil cooler.
From what i have ready it is near impossible to retain the factory security (which is also part of the original ECU), and this is proving true at the moment. only the drivers side of my central locking works now and the imobiliser is now useless. However im leaving this type of thing until im happy with the driving aspect and also the fit and finish of everything involved with the conversion.
did a bit of work yesterday, mainly finishing up the exhaust, but also a bit of R&D type stuff.
at the moment it is running the crank and coolant sensors doubled up. The only noticeable thing i can see is that my coolant temp reading on my haltech is about 6 degrees different to my defi water temp gauge (they are side by side).
Aside from that, everything seems to be working as normal so far besides the speedo, air con control (no gas to test) and the fuel gauge (only put about 20L in to start it. It is showing a fuel level similar to that amount, but cant say for sure until i fill it up).
Although i havent driven it yet, i have had it up to operating temp a few times now and all seems ok.
As far as the speedo goes, after looking through the wiring manual i bought, i have discovered that the 1UZ models did infact get its speed signal from the ABS system, while the 2JZ models used the signal from the transmission.
Im wondering if having a working speedo is as easy supplying the speed input on the dash with a signal from the ABS unit.
I havent looked into much else at the moment as i'm more or less waiting to see if any problems arise during the tune (as far as the commoning of sensors etc).
So basically the factory ECU controls:
everything on the dash
air con
The Haltech controls everything else including the fans for the radiator and my oil cooler.
From what i have read it is near impossible to retain the factory security (which is also part of the original ECU), and this is proving true at the moment. Only the drivers side of my central locking works and the immobiliser is now useless. However im leaving this type of thing (cruise control and abs/airbag disable buttons also) until im happy with the driving aspect and also the fit and finish of everything involved with the conversion (probably going to re-do the gearbox crossmember if i have time, among other things).
should probably put something in so its not all writing (x_x)
originally:
no more hunting or missfire ^_^
ps. the rattling noise at the end of the second video is the getrag lyf. gets a bit noisey if the revs drop below 850ish. Will probably try to keep the idle up around 950 when the proper idle tuning is done.
Re-did fuel pump with a sard 265l bolt in job. Was going to use a Walbro but would have had to make a custom hanger -_-.
Washed it last week for the first time in a year or so. Need wheels asap.
Got the front bumper repainted and bought a lip to go on.
Put most of the interior back together, just have to make a new shifter panel.
Aside from that, just made some heat shielding and things. Forgot to take photos of that though. Will do soon
So today was a good day.
My in the mean time wheels rocked up (work xc8s). Not a fan of the colour scheme on them so looking into getting them powdercoated. They look totally different when all one colour.
Also, the car got tuned at 101 today, which resulted in this:
Max of 473 at 20psi (had to back off at 6500rpm on this run due to a fuel issue as below)
430ish at 16psi
Having a small issue with the fuel pressure falling over in the top part of the rev range.
I'm using a sard 265 in tank and a Bosch 040 in a surge tank. I would have thought that this would be plenty for what I wanted, so at this stage we are suspecting it's a voltage issue at the pump.
Big thanks to daffy duck duckna young buck for organising everything at 101 for me!
Will look into it a bit more over the week.
Its a pig to drive atm to be honest. Regretting making the gearbox mounts the way they are as there is so much vibration and noise it's ridiculous. Definitely going to remake it utilising a standard toyota rubber mount.
So i was sick of the vibration and noise that i was getting from the gearbox...
Decided to make a new crossmember which would incorporate the factory rubber supra mount.
Improvement was amazing! it is a much nicer car to drive now ^_^.
Also chucked on the wheels and the front lip. Wheels definitely need mucking round with. Paint/camber/spacers etc
So I finished the fuel business. Basically doubled the Setup I already had, upgraded the feed line to -8 and rewired the feed pumps.
Went on the dyno to get the map rechecked and do final power runs.
Ended up with 491rwhp at 1.2ish bar. Varun mentioned that it is a super safe map and that he hadnt even begun exploring how much he could get out of it. Basically mucked around with it a little to adjust for the extra fuel pressure and yeah, ended up with that, which I was stoaked with at this stage.
Also got my adjustable arms for the rear this arvo, so I chucked them in tonight and probably wheel alignment on Wednesday or Thursday.
went to a 24 hour drift matsuri at my local track last weekend.
wasnt as clear sailing as i had hoped, but you get that.
Definately an interesting car to drive, but for the first meeting in it, there is definitely promise of a nice car to drive.
was battling handbrake not working and also mid saturday the fuel got so hot that the car would not start for a good 20-30 minutes.
on saturday night i ended up snapping an axle which ended my weekend pretty much. However i was able to pinch one out of a friends car and with help from jacko, swapped it in to mine so i could drive it home. with aircon. (^_^)
apart from that it was some valuable seat time to learn some things about the car.
it runs out of lock quite quickly
springs aren't terrible but some slightly stiffer ones and also a bigger rear swaybar wouldn't hurt
the axles are the same as supra ones, so they should be up to the task. my brakes were sticking slightly on the day so im thinking when i handbraked into the corner that it was stuck on slightly when i dumped the clutch in 3rd.
07-26-14, 07:59 PM
