Installing pioneer radio on 03 gs300
05-10-14, 07:46 AM
#1
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Installing pioneer radio on 03 gs300
Help needed!!!
Does anyone know if I have to bay pass the factory amp???!
I really don't want to buy if that's the only choice then that's what I'll do
Does anyone know if I have to bay pass the factory amp???!
I really don't want to buy if that's the only choice then that's what I'll do
05-10-14, 10:48 AM
#2
looks at topic.
looks at join date.
welp... looks like it's summer already...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...archid=3453495
looks at join date.
welp... looks like it's summer already...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...archid=3453495
Last edited by offbad; 05-10-14 at 12:10 PM.
05-10-14, 03:07 PM
#4
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looks at topic.
looks at join date.
welp... looks like it's summer already...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...archid=3453495
looks at join date.
welp... looks like it's summer already...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...archid=3453495
looks and realizes member doesn't know that search links don't work for anyone but himself....
Guys very much appreciate trying to help new members, but let's do it with a more welcoming approach please. You were new here not long ago yourself.
---------------------
To the OP, welcome to Club Lexus. Most anything you need to know has already been posted and discussed so you can get a great start by starting with search. Here are a few links I found by searching the 2GS forum for "bypass amp" to get you started.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ght=bypass+amp
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ght=bypass+amp
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ght=bypass+amp
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ght=bypass+amp
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ght=bypass+amp
Last edited by DaveGS4; 05-10-14 at 03:10 PM.
05-10-14, 03:18 PM
#5
Yea my bad. I made up for it in the thread asking which brake caliper paint is best. Actually I even replied to that thread first hahaha, anyhow! I'll be posting a DIY that honestly, it took me almost 4 months.... FOUR MONTHS. To figure out the bypass and did it by far the most legit I've seen yet. I pretty much just mixed together massive amounts of DIY threads, half that sucked, half that never even finished, and finally got it perfect, all wires in the two harnesses, nice and easy. I'm trying to figure out one last thing. Why my sub isn't playing anymore, and I'm going to make a *itchen DIY bypass thread that's going to be for dummies.... It was quite confusing, until you finish it and realize wow.... Why'd that take so long lol!
05-10-14, 03:33 PM
#7
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iTrader: (2)
And did see you did that brake painting response - that was good (better than the one above
). Everybody is new and got to "teach 'em to fish".
Trending Topics
05-10-14, 04:39 PM
#8
Gootttttt ya okay so then my links in the brake caliper thread won't work either? Or would those work since they were the actual URL's copied and pasted from those threads actually opened then copied. If that made sense lol.
05-10-14, 05:47 PM
#9
your going to need a harness to bypass the amp if your headunit already has a built in amp.
you should prob bypass it as the headunit is likely to have a better amp then the factory amp in the car.
something along the lines of this harness..
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207017...s.html?tp=2977
you should prob bypass it as the headunit is likely to have a better amp then the factory amp in the car.
something along the lines of this harness..
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207017...s.html?tp=2977
Last edited by 1sWt2GS; 05-10-14 at 05:51 PM.
05-10-14, 06:16 PM
#10
your going to need a harness to bypass the amp if your headunit already has a built in amp.
you should prob bypass it as the headunit is likely to have a better amp then the factory amp in the car.
something along the lines of this harness..
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207017...s.html?tp=2977
you should prob bypass it as the headunit is likely to have a better amp then the factory amp in the car.
something along the lines of this harness..
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207017...s.html?tp=2977
05-10-14, 10:06 PM
#12
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I can still remember when I replaced the speakers, subwoofer and installed my two amps , one mono Zapco 100 watts for the sub and the other a zapco C2K 100 watts x 4 channels for the speakers.
It was a very complex operation . I wanted to keep the OEM cd magazine and head unit and not disrupt the functioning of the screen on the car that works the nav, heat, air cond , etc etc . I didn`t want anybody to tamper with my car , so I did it all .
I remember that I ran the amps cables thru the right side of the car and the cable speakers thru the left side , to avoid any interference on the sound.
The amps I mounted them on the trunk (I had to built a plywood wall configured to the rear) and I covered with the same gray cloth material(ordered online) that the trunk is covered with . It came out very nice and elegant . I also replaced the open OEM crappy sub with an enclosed 10" Infinity sub on a box , which was covered on the same material , so everything was matching and the appearance was OEM like . I placed the sub on the same position as the OEM but inside the box enclosure , which I screwed and sealed to the metal surface of the rear deck .
For the speakers I had to construct a plywood base for all of the 4 doors to be able to install my Dynaudio speakers along with the crossovers and to accommodate everything neatly inside the doors . The tweeters I was able to install them on the same place as the original ones , at front . For the rear doors I was able to install the tweeters with their own Dynaudio grille and base they came with . The disassembly /assembly of the 4 doors was a real pain in the *** , having to be careful to not break anything .
The quality of sound as the end result was one hundred fold after I calibrated the crossovers and the amps.
Oh, I almost forgot : I ordered some Dynamax pieces and I covered the entire inside of the trunk , floor, sides, lid, everything .
But, it was not easy . It required a lot of careful cable cutting and soldering (and insulating every single soldering with heat wrap tubbing) and re-routing the cables around the car ... it took me a couple of weeks to do it ...no easy task at all . I spent considerable amounts of time inside the damn trunk in uncomfortable positions, hooking everything .
My main reason for the job was , of course , to improve the sound quality but I wanted to do a professional job in all aspects, with perfect soldering , no loose connections , etc . and that took a lot of time . I also wanted an OEM kind of look . It`s been 10 years or so since and never have had a single problem , so the job was done well .
Frankly , I was younger then and a lot more driven . I don`t know if I would do that kind of work now a days ... now most likely I would pay a professional to do it .
It was a very complex operation . I wanted to keep the OEM cd magazine and head unit and not disrupt the functioning of the screen on the car that works the nav, heat, air cond , etc etc . I didn`t want anybody to tamper with my car , so I did it all .
I remember that I ran the amps cables thru the right side of the car and the cable speakers thru the left side , to avoid any interference on the sound.
The amps I mounted them on the trunk (I had to built a plywood wall configured to the rear) and I covered with the same gray cloth material(ordered online) that the trunk is covered with . It came out very nice and elegant . I also replaced the open OEM crappy sub with an enclosed 10" Infinity sub on a box , which was covered on the same material , so everything was matching and the appearance was OEM like . I placed the sub on the same position as the OEM but inside the box enclosure , which I screwed and sealed to the metal surface of the rear deck .
For the speakers I had to construct a plywood base for all of the 4 doors to be able to install my Dynaudio speakers along with the crossovers and to accommodate everything neatly inside the doors . The tweeters I was able to install them on the same place as the original ones , at front . For the rear doors I was able to install the tweeters with their own Dynaudio grille and base they came with . The disassembly /assembly of the 4 doors was a real pain in the *** , having to be careful to not break anything .
The quality of sound as the end result was one hundred fold after I calibrated the crossovers and the amps.
Oh, I almost forgot : I ordered some Dynamax pieces and I covered the entire inside of the trunk , floor, sides, lid, everything .
But, it was not easy . It required a lot of careful cable cutting and soldering (and insulating every single soldering with heat wrap tubbing) and re-routing the cables around the car ... it took me a couple of weeks to do it ...no easy task at all . I spent considerable amounts of time inside the damn trunk in uncomfortable positions, hooking everything .
My main reason for the job was , of course , to improve the sound quality but I wanted to do a professional job in all aspects, with perfect soldering , no loose connections , etc . and that took a lot of time . I also wanted an OEM kind of look . It`s been 10 years or so since and never have had a single problem , so the job was done well .
Frankly , I was younger then and a lot more driven . I don`t know if I would do that kind of work now a days ... now most likely I would pay a professional to do it .
Last edited by josey88; 05-11-14 at 08:32 PM. Reason: i
05-11-14, 05:23 PM
#13
If you've got patience man for me to make this DIY, believe me it will be clear enough for ANYONE to do... Believe me I've got a lot to my system too... Originally just had my stock head unit working with my 12's and amp, but got an Avic so tossed the cd changer and bypassed the amp, it's actually very easy if you have solid directions man. If you don't know how to solder, you don't HAVE to, you can just use crimp connectors don't worry. Everything else is just simple routing wiring for your power to your amp and that's pretty much it
05-11-14, 05:25 PM
#14
I can still remember when I replaced the speakers, subwoofer and installed my two amps , one mono Zapco 100 watts for the sub and the other a zapco C2K 100 watts x 4 channels for the speakers.
It was a very complex operation . I wanted to keep the OEM cd magazine and head unit and not disrupt the functioning of the screen on the car that works the nav, heat, air cond , etc etc . I didn`t want anybody to tamper with my car , so I did it all .
I remember that I ran the amps cables thru the right side of the car and the cable speakers thru the left side , to avoid any interference on the sound.
The amps I mounted them on the trunk (I had to built a plywood wall configured to the rear) and I covered with the same gray cloth material(ordered online) that the trunk is covered with . It came out very nice and elegant . I also replaced the open OEM crappy sub with an enclosed 10" Infinity sub on a box , which was covered on the same material , so everything was matching and the appearance was OEM like . I placed the sub on the same position as the OEM but inside the box enclosure , which I screwed and sealed to the metal surface of the rear deck .
For the speakers I had to construct a plywood base for all of the 4 doors to be able to install my Dynaudio speakers along with the crossovers and to accommodate everything neatly inside the doors . The tweeters I was able to install them on the same place as the original ones , at front . For the rear doors I was able to install the tweeters with their own Dynaudio grille and base they came with . The disassembly /assembly of the 4 doors was a real pain in the *** , having to be careful to not break anything .
The quality of sound as the end result was one hundred fold after I calibrated the crossovers and the amps.
Oh, I almost forgot : I ordered some Dynamax pieces and I covered the entire inside of the trunk , floor, sides, lid, everything .
But, it was not easy . It required a lot of careful cable cutting and soldering (and insulating every single soldering with heat wrap tubbing) and re-routing the cables around the car ... it took me a couple of weeks to do it ...no easy task at all . I spent considerable amounts of time inside the damn trunk in uncomfortable positions, hooking everything .
My main reason for the job was , of course , to improve the sound quality but I wanted to do a professional job in all aspects, with perfect soldering , no loose connections , etc . and that took a lot of time . I also wanted an OEM kind of look . It`s been 10 years or so since and never have had a single problem , so the job was done well .
Frankly , I was younger then and a lot more driven . I don`t know if I would do that kind of work now a days ... now most likely I would pay a professional to do it .
It was a very complex operation . I wanted to keep the OEM cd magazine and head unit and not disrupt the functioning of the screen on the car that works the nav, heat, air cond , etc etc . I didn`t want anybody to tamper with my car , so I did it all .
I remember that I ran the amps cables thru the right side of the car and the cable speakers thru the left side , to avoid any interference on the sound.
The amps I mounted them on the trunk (I had to built a plywood wall configured to the rear) and I covered with the same gray cloth material(ordered online) that the trunk is covered with . It came out very nice and elegant . I also replaced the open OEM crappy sub with an enclosed 10" Infinity sub on a box , which was covered on the same material , so everything was matching and the appearance was OEM like . I placed the sub on the same position as the OEM but inside the box enclosure , which I screwed and sealed to the metal surface of the rear deck .
For the speakers I had to construct a plywood base for all of the 4 doors to be able to install my Dynaudio speakers along with the crossovers and to accommodate everything neatly inside the doors . The tweeters I was able to install them on the same place as the original ones , at front . For the rear doors I was able to install the tweeters with their own Dynaudio grille and base they came with . The disassembly /assembly of the 4 doors was a real pain in the *** , having to be careful to not break anything .
The quality of sound as the end result was one hundred fold after I calibrated the crossovers and the amps.
Oh, I almost forgot : I ordered some Dynamax pieces and I covered the entire inside of the trunk , floor, sides, lid, everything .
But, it was not easy . It required a lot of careful cable cutting and soldering (and insulating every single soldering with heat wrap tubbing) and re-routing the cables around the car ... it took me a couple of weeks to do it ...no easy task at all . I spent considerable amounts of time inside the damn trunk in uncomfortable positions, hooking everything .
My main reason for the job was , of course , to improve the sound quality but I wanted to do a professional job in all aspects, with perfect soldering , no loose connections , etc . and that took a lot of time . I also wanted an OEM kind of look . It`s been 10 years or so since and never have had a single problem , so the job was done well .
Frankly , I was younger then and a lot more driven . I don`t know if I would do that kind of work now a days ... now most likely I would pay a professional to do it .
05-11-14, 06:24 PM
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Ok well everything is done and installed.. Bypassed the factory amp
Using 70-8113 and TA02B the sound I'm getting out of the factory speakers with the pioneer indash is great..
Using 70-8113 and TA02B the sound I'm getting out of the factory speakers with the pioneer indash is great..
