sleeper408

iTrader: (6)

Hello all,
Well my battery gave up on me this morning after 7 years of use. After some brief searching on CL, my girlfriend took me over to Sears this morning and I bought a DieHard Gold (640 CCA). My old one was 840 CCA. The guy there searched on the computer and told me this is the one I needed. I figured 640 CCA is fine since I live in Northern CA and it doesn't get below 35-40 degrees outside even on cold nights.

Well, driving today to work and sitting at the light while in D, I noticed my RPMs dropped to 100 and bounced up to 300 then dropped back down to 100over and over. Then as the light turned green, the car died. I quickly popped it into N and started the car right up and went down the street. As I pull into the garage and take a turn, the same thing happens again, the car dies after very low idling.

I had this problem before and I think it was because there was a bit of corrosion on the terminal posts so I cleaned it up and the problem went away. I've heard that sometimes when car batteries die, they might take the alternator or starter with it too.

Do you think it could be my alternator? I mean, I just got a new battery so I know corrosion is not the issue. I even sprayed that red protectant to avoid future corrosion. I have a stock stereo system and nothing that would be drawing a lot of power. I think I read that one way to test the alternator is to start the car and let it run, then disconnect the negative cable. If the car dies then that means that the alternator is bad.

Please help! I don't want my car to keep shutting off on me every time I'm at a stop and in D. Is 640 CCA too low? Or is it relevant only to start-up and not while the car is running.

jcat_350

the CCA rating is only going to make a difference when starting. Going from 840 to 640 will probably make the car start a slight bit harder (i.e., it needs to work harder to get started).

My cobra had an old junk battery in it, and would barely crank over. I changed it, and bought one with 100 more CCA, and it starts up just as its supposed to.

When was the last time you cleaned your throttle body or ran some fuel system cleaner through? Or even your fuel filter? These seem to be more likely the cause. With any kind of stalling or stumbling issue, follow these steps:

Air
-air filter
-maf sensor
-throttle body
-vacuum leak

Fuel
-fuel filter
-fuel injectors (cleaner through the system, i recommend lucas)
-fuel pump

Spark
-plugs
-wires
-coils

Also might help to check TPS and IAC. My money's on fuel filter or vacuum leak.

/209JOHN\

iTrader: (5)

Theo,

Try taking it to Kragen or someone who can ck the alternator for free.

They'll usually come out side and hook up their tester and see if you alternator is charging. Typically is should be putting out 14 volts or more.

Hope this helps buddy.

John.

sleeper408

iTrader: (6)

I cleaned my MAF, throttle body, and air filter about 6 or 7 months ago I think. Man... it seems like there are so many things it could be. I do think the injectors may need a system cleaning. I had a TPS/APPS code a long time ago but that code never popped back up. I don't think it is the IAC because the change in idle seems very subtle and not as dramatic when this has occurred before. I remember when my gf's IAC valve was clogged on her Accord, the RPMs would jump from 400 to 1700 back to 400 to 1700. I think I am going to check all connections, hoses, etc. then run Lucas fuel system cleaner and then go from there.

I did have my Supra TT brakes installed a few days ago. It may be possible they may have accidentally loosened a vacuum line or something near the brake fluid reservoir.

Thanks for your help guys.

sjlexus408

iTrader: (4)

try unpluggin the maf sensor harness while the car is acting up,if it goes away then its your maf sensor.the other thing like you said is a vacuum leak, try spraying parts cleaner around vacuum hose area if engine rev change then your problem is a vacuum leak around that area.