My cable has been out the last 3 years. The way I get it to close each time is......
...follow the cable from the hood latch to where it takes a 90 degree turn toward the windshield. In that area you can get your hands on the cable and give it a couple tugs, tugging at the hood latch. This frees up the cable and hood latch and works for me every time.
Wow, you just saved me some big bucks and a lot of time and frustration.
This has been so annoying. I could close my hood and only the secondary latch would catch, then I could slam my trunk closed and the primary latch would catch.
However, I could then pop the first latch by just lifting hard by putting my fingers in the grill.
I used some pliers and found the cable right above the driver's headlight and pulled it away from the latch. I heard a small click and then when I closed the hood, it stayed completely closed and the hood pop latch in the car actually worked.
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I had a mechanic replace this about a year ago. Had tried WD-40 and pliers etc and it sort of worked but had not found this thread. So today it started again - had to push the cable under the dash with pliers. and now found this thread, so have a choice at least v. having to pay for the repair at the shop a second time. thanks for the great info and pictures.!!
I had this problem today. I tried taking the latch apart but didnt realize that the crossmember was removable. I wound up getting it by sticking a tiny screwdriver into the latch and wiggling it and i hard a little pop. It seems theres something in the latch that gets hung up. Its not so much of a cable problem because the cable doesnt "push" anything, it pulls. The cable retract is spring loaded if the latch is working.
Hey guys. I know this is an old post (and I posted to it at one point). I just need a temporary fix. It seems like you can access the cable behind/beneath the driver's side headlight. Another poster also mentioned sticking a small screwdriver into the latch itself.
Can someone tell me a quick and easy way to get my hood closed tonight?
06 GS430 (mercury/black)
Sold 99 GS400 (alpine silver/black)
Sold 98 GS400 (alpine silver/black)
Sold 99 ES300 (oyster pearl/sage)
My wife and I just got done changing the hood latch cable on her GS430. Something that we did that I didn't see mentioned in this thread was putting wheel bearing grease on the end of the cable before shoving it in the firewall. We tried to feed it through the firewall but it just wouldn't go in so I coated the end of the cable with grease and it went right in.
My dad and I completed this job together about a month ago, the photos on this site were great. Finished the job quickly and more easily by taping up end to end the new cable to the old one, greasing up the cable for the push through the fire wall.
I have alternate short tem repair. After reading the thread I decided to try white lithium grease into the cable from inside the car. I forced my red nozzle extender (what is that really called?) into the cable just behind the release handle where the wire first enters. After putting some old towels down and covering the area with a rag, gave it a good 5 second shot. It seemed to get most of into the cable. I then let it sit while also greased up the latch and changed the oil. After a few hours I took a pair of pliars and forced the wire from about one inch of where the wire enters back into the cable. It seemed to pop back into place. So far I have opened the hood only once more to test it. I think I will leave it alone for a while. Hope this helps.
1999 GS 300 Silver/Gray
2002 Chevy Tahoe
2000 Camry 4 Banger
1978 International Scout 345 4spd
1969 GTO Judge Liberty Blue 4spd
I just had this problem on my 01 GS300. Local mechanic shop quoted $140 for the part and labor so I went with it. Seems like a good deal for a job that would've taken me more than 2 hours and that's if I didn't run into complications which never happens with any job.