iposthere

Hi,

I thought this might help some other people save a few bucks and mount their IB (infinite baffle) subs nicely.

Make sure to wear Safety Glasses so none of this wood gets in your eyes.

Tools:
1. Jig saw or rotorzip/router
2. Tape measure
3. Drill


Materials:
1. MDF or Plywood 3/4" Thick (This is mainly just built to hold the sub in place, not like a box so "I" think either wood is fine).
2. Weather stripping or some type of Neoprene Closed Cell foam with adhesive on one side. You want 0.25"-0.5" Thickness(this prevents vibration between Mounting ring and Rear deck).
3. Screws (to screw sub into mount ring)
4. Bolts ( to bolt Mount ring to rear deck of car) Four M6 1.00 Pitch bolts. Lenght depnds on thickness of wood used.

Cost:
MDF: Free, i got scraps
Bolts/Screws: Under $3
Foam: $4


Time:
Measuring: took a while, but i gave you the measurements below so you're lucky!
Project (not counting measuring) took under 2 hours. Now that i know what to do it would take under 1 hour easy.


Thickness of MDF:
This depends on how far your sub will extend out. I was told that my sub will only go 0.70" out so 3/4"-1" will be decent. If you want to be SAFE make it a little thicker.
**An easy way to add an extra 1/4" is by glueing a 1/4" sheet of plywood on top of the MDF***

Tips:
MDF was kind of a pain to find for me. Here are some cheap ways to get your hands on it.
1. Home Depot and other lumber yards often get shipments in throughout the week of Plywood and other lumber. Most companies use MDF sheets when packing wood to protect it. So you can ask for the MDF scraps that came with a shipment.
2. Go to a local stereo shop and ask to by some MDF ( you dont need much 1.5'X1.5' sheet)
3. If you have to buy a full sheet (normally sells in 4'x8' then buy a 0.5" thick sheet and glue it together to make a 1" thick piece)

***You will first need to remove the Rear deck and Stock Sub. This Article can help http://bananags.grantham-internation...DIY/rear_deck/

For my sub, ED 11oV.2, I did the following:


Step 1: Measure the Sub
A. Outside diameter of the sub is needed so you can have the proper size Board cut. My sub measure 10.25" in diameter.
B. Measure the Surround Diameter. This is the arched rubberish material or foam that connects the Cone on the sub. You want to be a little over the diameter on this rather than under. This will prevent the Surround from hitting the wood when moving back and forth. Mine measure 9.25"



Step 2: Measure the available space for the Mounting Ring
A. here you need to measure the available space you have for a mounting ring on the rear deck in the trunk. As you can see this area isnt perfectly flat. This is where the Weather stripping comes in.


Make Templates of Paper, then Test fit the paper. Then Trace onto Cardboard. Test fit again. Then trace onto MDF for cutting.


My Measurements: you can always make it a little bigger. That way you can sand it down later rather than waste the wood.


Step 3: Cutting the outside of the mount ring
A. here you will take the measurements from step 2 and draw out the needed cuts.
B. Then take the Jig saw and make the needed cuts.

Just cut on the outside of the lines you drew from the templates. I forgot to take a pic before...Sorry :P See pic below for results of cut.


Step 4: Cutting the Sub Hole
A. First, you want to draw the circle with a diameter of your subs "Outside Surround Diameter". In my case it is 9.25"
B. To get a nice circle there is 2 easy methods.
1. Screw a nail in the center of the wood. Tie a string to it. Measure out HALF the diameter needed (in my case 4.625") and then tie a Pencil to the end. This will let you make a circle around the screw in the middle 9.25" in diameter.
2. Get a thin piece of plywood, the width can be small. Put a Screw at the bottom middle of the board and screw it into the MDF. Then measure from that screw te 4.625". then drill a small hole JUST THROUGH THE PLYWOOD. Then stick a pencil in the hole and rotate the wood to make a nice circle. (This is what i did).
C. Now take your Jig saw and cut out the circle. you can also use a RotoZip/Router.
Draw the Circle:



Make Cut:


Test Fit:



This post will be updated shortly with pictures and a little more info.

If you have any additional info/pictures you want to see let me know.

Thanks to Charmz and Robert_J for tips along the way!!!

pitmanr200

where are the pics

olddog

iTrader: (2)

subscribed to this thread.....pics would be great

thanks

olddog

oohpapi44

iTrader: (1)

Tons of pics and info in this thread

IB setup

iposthere

Step 5: Drill holes
A. screw 4 screws from the top deck so they go through the nuts in the trunk where the factory sub was mounted. Have them stick out about 1/4".


Then line up the wood so it is centered with the big hole. Now PRESS HARD (not HULK hard though) so the Screws Make a DENT into the wood. Now you have a perfect marking of where to drill.


Drill holes:


Step 6: Prep-work
A. Sanding: you need to sand the all of the edges of the wood. ESPECIALLY THE INSIDE CIRCLE!!! You want that to have a very smooth edge on it so the Surround ring does not get damaged.
B. Test Fit: Put the Ring over the sub. Make sure it does not touch the edges of the Surround. If it does take the sander and shave it down a little until it is correct.
C. Test Fit 2: Make sure the Mount ring can fit in the space on the top deck.

D. Once everything is fitting correctly clean up the wood using a Air gun to get the dust out.

You can now Paint the ring if you want. I only painted the side which will show. I left the side which i will be applying the foam to UN-painted.


Step 7: Apply Foam
A. Make sure the top surface of the mounting ring is cleaned off.
B. Then apply the Foam adhesive side to the top of the mount ring (by top i mean the tip which will touch the metal rear deck of the car).
C. Trim off any excess.
I used 3/8" Weather Stripping. I bought a 10ft roll (Under $4 at hardware stores).



Step 8: Mounting
A. Screw the mounting ring into the rear deck.
B. Attach the sub to the Mounting ring Using wood screws. Make sure they are correct Length so they dont go through.
C. The screws going into the mount ring screw in from the BACK of the sub.



Step 9: TESTING
A. before you put the rear deck cover back on. turn on the sub on a LOW volume. Then slowly turn it up.
B. MAKE SURE THE SUB DOES NOT HIT THE WOOD when moving In and Out.
C. If it does TURN IT OFF!!! Un bolt the sub and use the sander to shave down the problem areas.




Make sure to wear Safety Glasses so none of this wood gets in your eyes.

iposthere

Here are some of the pics....I'll post the rest in the next day.

Let me know if you wanted to see anything specific that i havent posted yet.

sck_GS300

want to sell me? lol nice job, very nice/

iposthere

Here are are all the pics, except the ones with the foam on the board, and the unit mounted. I'll post those shortly.


Thanks SCKGS430. The whole thing took me under an hour once i measured it.

Cost was almost free. Just had to buy the Weather stripping foam and Screws/Bolts. The MDF i got for free since it was scrap (AKA Drops)

-Enjoy

iposthere

BUMP....


All pics are up now. Hope this helps someone out.

swat1727

iTrader: (2)

wow u so handy =)

Robert_J

A great build log! But how does it sound?

Keep the log going as you install your amp and wiring. You would be surprised at the number of people who have difficulty running wire through a car.

-Robert

99GS4

Nice Job... How does it sound?

iposthere

Hi guys,

Thanks!

Havent turned it on yet. I will test it after i run the wiring tonight.

I'm going to run the power on the passenger side. But I'm not sure if I should run the RCAs and Signal wire through Driver side OR Center console. What do you think???


Here is a great how to run the Wiring: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=286180

legomy430

Very nice DIY. This should be added to the DIY page under SUB replacement.

Rock-a-Lex

iTrader: (4)

GREAT JOB! I will follow this when I re-do my setup!