i did the same thing when i installed my avic d3, i wired my sub with the rear left spkr and wired my front and rear cabin mids to my front channels. i did that for months before i realized it didn't sound as good with an amped sub and eq settings for mid ranges tweeked correctly
I have never heard of a 1 ohm bose speaker. You can splice a rca plug to the bose speaker wires, but who cares about bose, let the nissan guys worry about that
I have never heard of a 1 ohm bose speaker. You can splice a rca plug to the bose speaker wires, but who cares about bose, let the nissan guys worry about that
Haha, I'm with you on that one. I've seen the 1 Ohm speakers in only a couple cars, I want to say that it was the front speakers on the older Maxima's but I can't remember
Justin
I have to say I am a very visual person.
These pics really help alot.
I will now get it done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by offandongu
Hey guys, I saw on here that a lot people seemed to have questions about the GS300 after market radio installation. So I just put a radio in my wife's car and thought I'd take some pictures during the install that might help you guys out. I was an Assistant Car Stereo sales and installation manager at Circuit City for 3 years so I have a lot of experience doing installs. So here we go:
I started by making a harness that was about 36 inches long to reach from behind the radio to the factory amplifier:
I left a quick disconnect harness on, like the ones at circuit city, incase I change out the radio later, this way I won't have to wire anything else up.
Next I dropped the glove box and located the factory amp and the output wires from the factory amp (an met 80 or 70 1761 from BB or CC will fit this harness).
Here's a close up of the harness and where it was unplugged from:
Factory Amp location on right:
Next I got 12 volt switched (accesory) from the harness behind the factory radio (not the factory amp) it is a gray wire:
Now I decided I wanted to try and keep the factory sub-woofer. To do this I wired in the sub-woofer wires (green w/red & green w/black on the small harness coming off the factory amp) to the driver's side rear speaker. The downside to this is that the factory sub and rear driver's side speaker are lowered to 2 ohms. It did not sound like any highs were getting through but it is difficult to tell since I can't fade the driver's rear off or it gets no signal. Here is a picture of the wires off the factory harness with the wires jumped from the driver's side rear speaker spliced and soldered on:
Next I grounded the radio to the gold colored bracket to the right of the glove box:
Here's a close up:
Last, I ran the wires along the same path as the factor wires and zip tied them in place:
And that was it. I soldered everything and I would recommend that you do the same. Time will tell if leaving the factory sub hooked up is a bad idea or not, but it definitely needed some bass when disconnected from the factory amp.
Justin
Ok, I've been searching forever and still can't find any info...hoping someone point me to the right direction. I want to keep the factory pioneer head unit and replace the factory sub (don't want to lose the ability to use the stearing controller and cd changer).
Thing's I've already done:
Replaced the factory speakers with 6.5'' (4 ohm) on all four doors. Still have factory sub but once I can figure out the issue above, I will replace with a new 10" sub. Sounds good on low volume
Ok, I've been searching forever and still can't find any info...hoping someone point me to the right direction. I want to keep the factory pioneer head unit and replace the factory sub (don't want to lose the ability to use the stearing controller and cd changer).
Thing's I've already done:
Replaced the factory speakers with 6.5'' (4 ohm) on all four doors. Still have factory sub but once I can figure out the issue above, I will replace with a new 10" sub. Sounds good on low volume
you need a line out converter you will input the wires from original sub into the converter and then youll plug in your rcas from that to your amp.
question: so is there no wiring harness for amp integration?
I refuse to believe that because that signal can be simulated. I'm not in to factory stereo setups so no reason for me figure it out, but with a little knowledge and research of how this amp works, a simulated switch has to be able to be made. Whether its cheap to do or not is not the question, but I believe it can be done.
well while you believe it or not. I went to school and am MECP Certified 1st class and believe me when i tell you i went thru many wiring schemes with relays and so on and it would not work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Jokster
I refuse to believe that because that signal can be simulated. I'm not in to factory stereo setups so no reason for me figure it out, but with a little knowledge and research of how this amp works, a simulated switch has to be able to be made. Whether its cheap to do or not is not the question, but I believe it can be done.
Last edited by kidd1; 10-25-09 at 10:39 AM.
Reason: spelling
well while you believe it or not. I went to school and am MECP Certified 1st class and believe me when i tell you i went thru many wiring schemes with relays and so on and it would not work.
well the way I figure it, if they got the stock deck to do it, you can get anything else to do it. Just me. I'm not dissing you at all with your certification, but there are some master wire'ers (I know not a real word ) out there that can do some crazy shyt. You know how it goes, you might try it a million times, but only takes one time to get it right. Its not a million times of failure, just a million times of how not do it If someone really wants to get it done, it has to be possible; someone just needs to make a call to Toyota in Japan itself and ask them what they do to get that sucker on and a device can be made.
Hell off the top of my head in these last few seconds, heres what I've got, its ghetto, but works. Pull factory deck out, stuff it somewhere behind the dash somewhere, disconnect all wires to speakers and run them to deck with modified hi/low converter. That keeps factory deck still 'half' installed to power amp. Car turns on, amp turns on but speakers runs off aftermarket deck. HELLA ghetto, but we're not talking practical at the moment, just mythbusting
Since this thing got bumped.. where do you get the 2 connectors for the tail end of the harness?
Is that the metra 70 1761?
I'm assuming that once the color code is figured out, they are cutting the factory wiring and splicing the pigtail from the new deck to the factory wiring.
Hybrid Mode
