UDel

I cleaned my throttle body today and it went alot better then the first time I tried it. Taking the intake tract off to get at the throttle body was extremely difficult, I was turning it and pulling really hard and it would barely budge. For some reason the lower right portion just did not want to come off. After putting alot of muscle into it and wriggling it the thing eventually came off. There is a raised lip area on the right hand side of the metal tb tube that it was I guess being caught on making it extremely difficult to come off. My TB was pretty dirty and took a little while to clean but I got what I could. I put a little motor oil at the ends of the black tube where that controls the throttle opening to make sure it was properly lubricated and put everything back together. When I started my car I noticed the idle was pretty high and I had to actually hit the brakes harder when backing out of the driveway because it was going in reverse pretty fast. The car was idling pretty high which was to be expected and I did not throw any CEL codes, throttle seemed a little more responsive but I just drove around my neighborhood kind of slowly. Hopefully this helps with the low/rough idle and it would be nice if my gas mileage improved a little as well as the throttle being a little more responsive. The DIY helped me out so thanks everyone for posting them.

zacky

Hi, is there a difference between cleaning the maf and getting a new one? The mechanic told me that I need a new Maf, after he cleaned it. To fix my lag and loss of power problem when I push gas in town.

Lexmex

Are you getting a check engine light?

zacky

No, I am not getting a check engine light. The mechanic cleaned the maf, but then said it's still no good. That a new MAF is needed to work properly. I'm not sure if I should buy a new one now.

Also, If I install a new MAF, what else needs to be done relating to the ECU? does it need to be programmed at the shop?

zacky

I cleaned my throttle body today. Took out the whole piece and noticed that most of the dirty carbon build up was actually in the back end of the throttle body. So I recommend taking the whole piece out. Its not hard. This was my first time fixing anything in my car for I am a rookie. Got a few burn marks and scratches on my hands from the hot engine. Although, I am glad I did it.
Thank you Club lexus.

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE: While the MAF and throttle body cleaning seemed to improve the throttle response, I believe that cleaning the dirty fuel injectors, valves, and combustion chambers with a PEA-containing fuel system cleaner (like Chevron Techron Concentrate, Gumout Regane, Redline SI-i, or Amsoil Performance Improver) is a more thorough solution. Dirty fuel injectors, valves, and combustion chambers can lead to power loss, hesitation, sluggish acceleration as noted above. Cleaning these engine parts with either of these aforemetioned products is worth a try (<$20). My thoughts:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho....php?p=3837549

swat1727

iTrader: (2)

are you able to change the spark plugs after taking the whole throttle body out? or do u need to take off more stuff in order to reach the middle spark plugs?

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

You can not clean the throttle body if it is equipped with a Throttle by wire type (the throttle without cables) because its electronic.

MrG4Life

iTrader: (14)

Good write-up. I was just reading posts about the oil used on K&N filters getting on the MAF sensor. Mine seems to be good but I don't think it'll kill to spend some time to get the sensor and throttle body cleaned

VALET dude

iTrader: (2)

i highly recommend this if you havent done it in a long time. i just did mine, and boy oh boy what a difference. there was no hesitation nor felt laggy from stop signs or stop lights. it felt so good driving on the freeway too

FreddyEarl

3M makes a awesome intake system cleaning kit. The intake manifold looks almost brand new on the inside when it's done. Doing oil and filter changes on time will lower the amount of crude around the Throttle Body. It's even better if you stick with synthetic.

Debonair

Nice write up SeattleGS400

In the last month or so my idle has got to be very erratic. Today I pulled all my plugs, cleaned them, and checked the gaps. I cleaned the throttle body. And I cleaned the MAF. The whole time my battery was disconnected so I can also say I also reset the ECU. BIG DIFFERENCE in the way the car is now idling. Much smoother. Simple job with good results.

I used:

CRC MAF Cleaner
CRC Throttle Body Cleaner
CRC Electrical Component Cleaner

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I assume you mean you can not clean the linkage on a Drive-by-wire setup which is true because there is none. But you definitely CAN clean the actual throttle body intake port and blade.

Lexscme

any pics of the MAF being cleaned?? i need to know how to clean mine.

Debonair

Here is a pic of a Corolla MAF from Toyotanation.com. It looks EXACTLY like the one in my car.



You can clean both the air temp sensor (green) and MAF (red).

Lexscme

do spray on the screens,not on the sensor. right?