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I'm planning to change the canister thats above the rear end.What do i need to do first to change out the canister? Do i need to drop the rear end or do i need to unbolt one of the rear axle? I need to know which side left or right axle? Also, if i have to unbolt one of the axle from the rear end,once i unbolt from the rear end,do i also need to unbolt the brake rotors and the calipers too for the axle to drop down? Please help!!!
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REMOVE CHARCOAL CANISTER ASSEMBLY
(a) Disconnect the RH rear drive shaft from the differential (see below)
(b) Remove the charcoal canister assembly.
(1) Disconnect the vapor pressure sensor connector.
(2) Disconnect the VSV connector for pressure switching
valve.
(3) Disconnect the purge line hose, EVAP line hose
and air inlet line from the charcoal canister.
(4) Disconnect the vent line hose from the charcoal
canister.
Push the connector deep inside, pinch portion A,
and pull out the connector.
(5) Disconnect the air drain hose from the chanister
tank.
(6) Remove the 3 nuts and the charcoal canister assembly.
1. REMOVE REAR WHEEL
Torque: 103 N·m (1,050 kgf·cm, 76 ft·lbf)
2. REMOVE SUSPENSION MEMBER BRACE
Remove the 2 bolts and suspension member brace.
Torque: 50 N·m (510 kgf·cm, 37 ft·lbf)
3. REMOVE COTTER PIN, LOCK CAP AND LOCK NUT
(a) Remove the cotter pin and lock cap.
(b) With depressing the brake pedal, remove the nut.
Torque: 289 N·m (2,950 kgf·cm, 213 ft·lbf)
4. REMOVE DRIVE SHAFT
(a) Place matchmarks on the adjusting cam and lower suspension
arm.
(b) Remove the bolt and nut, disconnect the No.2 lower suspension
arm from the axle hub.
Torque: 110 N·m (1,120 kgf·cm, 81 ft·lbf)
(c) Remove the bolt and nut, disconnect the No.1 lower suspension
arm from the axle hub.
Torque: 75 N·m (765 kgf·cm, 55 ft·lbf)
(d) Place matchmarks on the drive shaft and side gear shaft.
NOTICE:
Do not punch to mark the matchmarks. Use paint etc.
(e) Using a 10 mm hexagon wrench, remove the 6 hexagon
bolts and 2 washers with depressing the brake pedal.
Torque: 83 N·m (850 kgf·cm, 61 ft·lbf)
HINT:
At the time of installation, apply a light coat of engine oil on the
threads of the bolts.
(f) Hold the inboard joint side of the drive shaft so that the
outboard joint side does not bend too much.
(g) Using a brass bar and hammer, lightly tap the end of the
drive shaft, disengage the axle hub and remove the drive
shaft.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the boots, end cover, speed sensor
rotor of the drive shaft and oil seal of the axle hub.
How many miles do you have on the car as this should be covered by a waranty up to like 70,000 miles?
what's the code?
in my exp these codes usually come from topping up your gas tank after the pump shuts off the first time.
not knowing the code it's just a guess but do some serious highway driving and if it's just a flooded canister usually you can clear the canister, clear the code and not have to change anything....
That is interesting. Why would they put it there? I never thought about the charcoal canister. I always overfill the tank and have never had a code show up.
I changed my gas cap and did a fuel injection cleaning and fuel treatment. i then resetted the ecu and the same cod cam back. the cod is po441 or 446 usually.
take a look at this, maybe it might help you:
P0446 indicates there's excessive vacuum in the fuel tank/evaporative emissions control system. In most cases, significant diagnosis is required to find the cause. There are four basic types of problems that I've seen cause this code:
1. Faulty fuel tank pressure sensor, causing the ECM to believe there's vacuum present when in actuality there is none.
2. Purge control valve stuck open, applying vacuum to tank at all times.
3. Blockage preventing the tank from properly venting. This could be due to a plugged charcoal canister or canister filter, a stuck closed canister close valve, or any sort of blockage in the evaporative system.
4. Liquid fuel blocking one of the vapor hose to the fuel tank pressure sensor, preventing the sensor from properly reading the pressure in the tank.
DONT DO IT!
i had the same codes, it ended up being the charcoal canister solenoid, the valve on it was rusted out.
With some effort, you can reach in and replace it, drive the car around for a while.