Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
#946
And to answer your question, no, Lexus will only sell you the whole actuator for 350+... I think you should ignore it
#947
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Lol that happened to both my front doors, I just left the like that since they're only useful for mechanically locking and unlocking, electronically the locks will still work.
And to answer your question, no, Lexus will only sell you the whole actuator for 350+... I think you should ignore it
And to answer your question, no, Lexus will only sell you the whole actuator for 350+... I think you should ignore it
#948
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Lol that happened to both my front doors, I just left the like that since they're only useful for mechanically locking and unlocking, electronically the locks will still work.
And to answer your question, no, Lexus will only sell you the whole actuator for 350+... I think you should ignore it
And to answer your question, no, Lexus will only sell you the whole actuator for 350+... I think you should ignore it
#949
Yeah mine snapped on my pass front door. I tried to epoxy it...no beuno. I just left it like that and it works fine. You cant manually lock the door, but you can manually unlock it. Dont really need it though since now the electric locks work. I will say, before attempting this DIY, I thought this would be difficult. The first one took me a while(1.5hr), but then had the other 3 out, apart, motors installed, epoxied, and back in the car in about 2 hours. This is not hard. Hardest part is getting the little shaft coupling off. I found the easy way to do it was to just cut the shaft with some wire cutters (be sure not to loose the coupling...they like to go flying when the shaft snaps), and then drive the remaining shaft piece out with a small roll pin punch and a bench vise. Use the vise jaws to support the coupling. Open the vise jaws just enough for the shaft piece to fit into (not tight) and then let the shoulders of the coupling rest on the top edge of the vise jaws. Drive the shaft out and then tap the coupling back on the new motor. I set the new motor with shaft pointing up (non drive end of shaft must sit on flat surface of vise jaw to support it while installing coupling or you may bend the shaft or damage the brushes/rotor in the tiny motor. It sounds difficult but its very easy.
#951
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I can confirm that part # 69120-06010 does work on the drivers side front door for a 1998 Lexus GS300. I ordered the part off of RockAuto.com for around 80$ shipped. It's a different color than the original actuator (black) but it mounts and works just as good as the original actuator. I just ordered the actuator for the rear right door, part # 69130-30110 from RockAuto.com. I'll confirm if that works as well. I believe these actuators are compatible with Toyota Siennas, 03 model Prius, etc. The price is significantly marked up if you search for the part under our Lexus make and model.
#952
60+ pages of information will take some time to go through :-)
Maybe we can summarize the Sewell/Lexus part# for all 4 door lock actuators on the original thread starters thread within page-1?
I've been sifting through this thread for 15min and cant find an answer to the following question:
What is the Sewell part# for a driver side front door lock actuator assembly to a 2001 GS430?
Much appreciated if someone can help me with that.
Maybe we can summarize the Sewell/Lexus part# for all 4 door lock actuators on the original thread starters thread within page-1?
I've been sifting through this thread for 15min and cant find an answer to the following question:
What is the Sewell part# for a driver side front door lock actuator assembly to a 2001 GS430?
Much appreciated if someone can help me with that.
#953
If your handy enough to remove the entire actuator assembly, then replacing just the motor is no more difficult. The entire actuator is around $400usd I believe. The motors are a couple bucks on ebay.
#954
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Opening the housing to get the motor is not easy. the motor it self is cheap. $10-20 on ebay for 4 motor. Rock auto sell new housing and motor too? (Base on the website) For about $80ish. If I have to do the door actuator again, I will be getting that. Anyone know any other place that sells it cheaper than $80?
#955
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Opening the housing to get the motor is not easy. the motor it self is cheap. $10-20 on ebay for 4 motor. Rock auto sell new housing and motor too? (Base on the website) For about $80ish. If I have to do the door actuator again, I will be getting that. Anyone know any other place that sells it cheaper than $80?
#956
Did my left rear actuator today (having done the left front a couple of years ago). I'd say the rears are easier, with one exception, as noted by others - getting the actuator out of the door. I have a tip on how to do this.
I wiggled and wiggled the loose actuator and could not get it out, so I broke down and removed the outer door handle, which is held by two screws. Front screw is easy, but the back one is covered by the actuator, so it's a Catch-22 of sorts - can't get the actuator out with the handle in place, can't get the handle out with the actuator in place.. I was finally able to get the back screw out using a 10mm offset box wrench, and then the actuator came right out. Rebuilding the actuator is like illustrated here, no need to rehash that.
But when getting the actuator back in, I did not fancy trying to install the door handle back screw with the actuator in place, so I installed the handle first and tightened the screws, then tried to install the actuator. I was able to do it surprisingly easily, the trick seemed to be to slide the actuator up while holding it all the way back against the back of the door. I think that when people try to get the actuator out, they naturally pull it towards the opening, i.e. forward, but that interferes with the door handle. If you push it back and down, it will come out.
So the bottom line is that for the rears, no need to remove the outer handle, just slide the actuator down while pushing it back.
Hope this helps.
I wiggled and wiggled the loose actuator and could not get it out, so I broke down and removed the outer door handle, which is held by two screws. Front screw is easy, but the back one is covered by the actuator, so it's a Catch-22 of sorts - can't get the actuator out with the handle in place, can't get the handle out with the actuator in place.. I was finally able to get the back screw out using a 10mm offset box wrench, and then the actuator came right out. Rebuilding the actuator is like illustrated here, no need to rehash that.
But when getting the actuator back in, I did not fancy trying to install the door handle back screw with the actuator in place, so I installed the handle first and tightened the screws, then tried to install the actuator. I was able to do it surprisingly easily, the trick seemed to be to slide the actuator up while holding it all the way back against the back of the door. I think that when people try to get the actuator out, they naturally pull it towards the opening, i.e. forward, but that interferes with the door handle. If you push it back and down, it will come out.
So the bottom line is that for the rears, no need to remove the outer handle, just slide the actuator down while pushing it back.
Hope this helps.
#957
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
Opening the housing to get the motor is not easy. the motor it self is cheap. $10-20 on ebay for 4 motor. Rock auto sell new housing and motor too? (Base on the website) For about $80ish. If I have to do the door actuator again, I will be getting that. Anyone know any other place that sells it cheaper than $80?
#959
The motor housing is easy to open. Just use a utility knife and work it in a bit, then just move it like a see-saw inside the housing...the whole thing can be taken apart in less than a minute. Ive done all 4 of mine.