Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
#241
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
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It's actually not bad at all, the main problem I had was with the coupling. I can now tear down the door in under 20 minutes and get the actuator out. I created my own coupling with a dremel and epoxy and that alone took me 3 hours due to my own mistake but now the problem I have is the big gear returning back to home position when electrically locked. When unlocked electrically it can function normally and returns back to home. When locked, I cannot unlock manually due to the big gear getting stuck somehow and not returning back to home position.
#242
Driver School Candidate
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I just completed the rear door actuator motor replacement. Really kudo's for all that submitted as they learned. The rear door panel was really easy to remove, didn't break any of the snaps that I have done in the past. After removing the screws to remove the actuator, lift the door handle from the outside to ease the assembly out. The actual motor casing is a sealed unit and is easy to break. The 2 case halves are tongue and groove and bonded together. I used a utility knife between the case halves to cut through the tongue and groove. If you try to pry before you have cut through, you will only end up breaking the case. Give yourself 15 minutes to do the job, be careful not to cut yourself and you can get the case apart in 2 pieces. Makes it easier to glue back together. I thought of using a Dremel tool but after seeing how much grease is inside the unit, all the dust/debris from a Dremel tool would probably muck up the works. I did put a piece of foam tape on the side opposite the electrical contacts to give it more contact force (the original motor also had some foam tape on it). Oh yeah, the coupling is hard to get off but do it just like the picture. I bent a few nails (blunt them first). Took about 3 hours including a trip to the local hardware store for a Torx 30 bit so that plus the $1 motor saved me over $200!
#243
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Ca
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I didn't see RX300 mentioned in this thread, but will this motor work on my rear doors?
http://cgi.ebay.com/5-NEW-Mabuchi-Mi...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/5-NEW-Mabuchi-Mi...QQcmdZViewItem
#244
Lexus Champion
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Can anyone guess what when wrong? My remote works but I cannot manually lock/unlock using my key or using the manual lock unlock button. Only the remote and the unlock/lock power button works.
It sucks because when I'm inside the car and all doors are locked, and I decide to go out buy opening the door from the inside, the door opens but it remains locked (it would suck if I still have the keys inside).
PM me if you know what I'm talking about.
It sucks because when I'm inside the car and all doors are locked, and I decide to go out buy opening the door from the inside, the door opens but it remains locked (it would suck if I still have the keys inside).
PM me if you know what I'm talking about.
#246
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Can anyone guess what when wrong? My remote works but I cannot manually lock/unlock using my key or using the manual lock unlock button. Only the remote and the unlock/lock power button works.
It sucks because when I'm inside the car and all doors are locked, and I decide to go out buy opening the door from the inside, the door opens but it remains locked (it would suck if I still have the keys inside).
PM me if you know what I'm talking about.
It sucks because when I'm inside the car and all doors are locked, and I decide to go out buy opening the door from the inside, the door opens but it remains locked (it would suck if I still have the keys inside).
PM me if you know what I'm talking about.
Should be easy to fix. You might need a cable if the plastic cable guide is broken.
BP
#247
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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TRD...excellent detailed article! FYI: I was able to make this repair on my 98 Honda Accord, I believe it's the same motor, shaft end, and plastic gear. Also, if you don't wanna go through all the trouble of removing shaft ends, I just found the Honda OEM actuator on a direct parts website for around $20. I used wire splicers to hold the shaft better while tapping out (light tapping is all you need) and definitely use some heat. Also I'll have 2-3 motors left if anyone is interested. Hope this helps more people!
#249
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
Thanks.
I'm positive the cables are good. I re-installed it. I must have something not put in the right place. Turning the key from outside didn't budge and pressing the manual lock from the inside didn't budge either. I will look at the other door to compare. Thanks for your input!
I'm positive the cables are good. I re-installed it. I must have something not put in the right place. Turning the key from outside didn't budge and pressing the manual lock from the inside didn't budge either. I will look at the other door to compare. Thanks for your input!
#250
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
OK, so I rebuilt my actuator a few months ago with the ebay motors right... and I thought everything worked great. Using the remote and the lock/unlock button inside the car works fine. But the other day, a person was sitting in the back seat of my car and when I parked and got out... the person couldn't unlock the door from the inside to get out!
If I unlock all the doors, and open that rear door, I can lock it with my finger, and the door is locked again. Use the remote to unlock it again, open it up, lock and unlock it manually, and it stays unlocked.... but for some reason, if the door is locked and shut, you can not unlock it from the inside! You can't even move the button to the unlock position. It's like jammed. What'd I do wrong?
If I unlock all the doors, and open that rear door, I can lock it with my finger, and the door is locked again. Use the remote to unlock it again, open it up, lock and unlock it manually, and it stays unlocked.... but for some reason, if the door is locked and shut, you can not unlock it from the inside! You can't even move the button to the unlock position. It's like jammed. What'd I do wrong?