GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Unfortunately, it's at least $200.

TRD911

pretty expensive... that is why we are looking at replacing the little tinker toy motor that they put in there.

I like to use http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...83&catalogid=0 as a reference to what a part should cost... about


I have attached the part number from the parts list.

Front door

TRD911

and the rear...

Kbueno

Holy SHCRAP! MSRP 280 !!! I see there was an old group buy for 195.00, that's still a lot of money.

TRD911

Thats why we are tying the little motors....

B

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

UPDATE: It was 12:30AM and I was bored as heck. Can't really sleep because of all the caffeine in the sodas I drank to keep me awake for my finals

So I decided to take out my door lock actuator. You do NOT have to take out the window, but it would be helpful. For those with big hand/arm, you probably want to take out the windows. Luckily for me, I'm a small guy

So the motors I bought from ebay aren't the same ones as the OEM motor. Everything that bmpiazzola measured was valid, except it didn't have the terminals like the one that comes off the car. You can probably solder or modify the metal tabs, but that's probably not as efficient if you ever want to replace the motor again. Also, I didn't know whether the ebay motor had enough torque (apparantly it does so since the actuator is gear driven for more torque). I didn't have a the proper tooling to press out that metal piece on the armature shaft.

So I did the next best thing. I replaced the bushings. Keep in mind that the bushings are the same, but the metal connector differs in length. Not a problem because I rerouted it. I soldered it in just incase.

I ran into complications because my door wouldn't unlock unless I held the key to unlock while lifting the door handle. I was stuck in the car for awhile, but that's another story


4 hours of work and it's complete. My door lock is working the way it should. If you can find the exact OEM motor, and your actuator stopped working, then do the DIY. The only hard part was getting the bushings positioned correctly.

a very BIG thanks to bmpiazzola. Without you pointing to the right motor, I would have had a lot of downtime, just so I can find a match.

If I dont make sense or if I have lots of grammatical errors, please forgive me. It's 4:30AM and I'm toasted.

Fusionwork

Do you mean brushes instead of bushings???

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

ah yes brush. I guess I was really tired

I also told my friends something that's jibberish, but I can't exactly remember what.

TRD911

Great job.. well done.. It was a bit hard to get the coupling off of the shaft.. lots of heat. I have set this aside for now.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I wish I had a press to take out the coupling, but then I would have to drive kind of far to use my dad's press.

Would I do it again? Sure why not, especially since I saved so much money. Again thanks for the DIY. It made the removal process much quicker!!



PS..my car door is HEAVILY sound deadened. It was not fun taking some off to get access to the inside of the door

Fusionwork

Have you tried your motor with the correct "tabs" on it yet? I suppose if you were to rebuild the motor with the brushes AND you could get the adapter off you could put in the new armature from the donor motor as well and use the old case in a sense. But a drop in motor would also be quite nice.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

The thing is, to even replace the armature, you need to take off the coupling. Why not just keep everything the way it is and replace the brushes only. The armature and everything else is fine. It's the brush that dies out. Not to mention, the cap that holds the brushes are filled with black contaminents. Gotta have that cleaned up.

I'm going to see how long this setup last. Though I'm sure it'll last for a long time. It's just a matter of positioning the brushes so that as it wear down, it'll still have contact.

I still had about 15% brush life left. Its just that they were not pressing against the armature. I guess if I could rebend the tabs, i can get it to work again. but since I got to where I was, I might as well replace the darn thing.

LextacyGS4

iTrader: (2)

my driver door lock starts to pull about halfway but doesnt lock, is this the same problem? Same problem to unlock if its lock, starts to pull but doesnt go all the way.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Yes. Same problem. Mine did that for awhile until it finally gave up.

LextacyGS4

iTrader: (2)

so theres no cheap fix while its still trying or is it as good as gone? this sucks, i gotta spend another $200 out of nowhere. Guess im gonna be selling some rims soon.