Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
#841
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nice DIY thread my two rear door lock actuators need to be replaced i actually did all of this and when i seen the actual actuator, i didnt think u could open it up now that i seen these pics im taking it apart as i type lol
#843
Thank for this DIY page to fix my driver side actuator; it took me twice due to a missed aligned glass window reassembly and improper door **** steel wire retaining length. I would recommend everyone to replace the RCmotor if they can ! I am a mechanical major and yet I made some mistakes during the reassembly processes.
It will be easier to replace the whole assembly that pry the actuator assy apart.
Truly, do it slow and be patient while putting everything back.
My door actors are all functioning perfectly now.
Thank you guys !
It will be easier to replace the whole assembly that pry the actuator assy apart.
Truly, do it slow and be patient while putting everything back.
My door actors are all functioning perfectly now.
Thank you guys !
#844
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Need help Guys??
Got a 2003 Lexus gs 300 I'm about to buy but cannot lock the doors at all from button no power going to it,then I put key in hold it down and don't lock all the doors what can this be someone please help???? Also don't have the original Lexus key either... THanks guys...
#845
It could very well be that all the door actuators are bad.
P.S. IMHO have the pinion puller for this job. I tried to do the driver side door this weekend without it and had to put everything back together without the motor swap until it arrives on E-bay. I tried every trick in the book to get that sleeve off the motor and it wouldn't budge.
P.S. IMHO have the pinion puller for this job. I tried to do the driver side door this weekend without it and had to put everything back together without the motor swap until it arrives on E-bay. I tried every trick in the book to get that sleeve off the motor and it wouldn't budge.
#846
Ok, Pinion Puller arrived and I did the driver side door. Here are some tips/notes before I forget...
1. You do not have to remove the window. If you leave the window you don't have to remove the speaker. Put the window all the way up to do the work.
2. If you don't remove the window you MUST disconnect the window motor once you get the window all the way up. See connector in picture below. If the silver bar falls on the actuator unit all the windows will roll down, you do not want this happening when you are working in the door. The other windows will go down and the sunroof will open, just not the one you are working on that you disconnect.
3. Set aside a lot of time and patience to open up the piece that encases the motor. I used an Xacto knife and slowly went around, at times knocking it into the seem with a hammer. Be careful and take your time or you will break the housing or hurt yourself.
The hardest part is cracking the case and swapping the motor.
1. You do not have to remove the window. If you leave the window you don't have to remove the speaker. Put the window all the way up to do the work.
2. If you don't remove the window you MUST disconnect the window motor once you get the window all the way up. See connector in picture below. If the silver bar falls on the actuator unit all the windows will roll down, you do not want this happening when you are working in the door. The other windows will go down and the sunroof will open, just not the one you are working on that you disconnect.
3. Set aside a lot of time and patience to open up the piece that encases the motor. I used an Xacto knife and slowly went around, at times knocking it into the seem with a hammer. Be careful and take your time or you will break the housing or hurt yourself.
The hardest part is cracking the case and swapping the motor.
Last edited by CinFulxgs; 08-18-12 at 09:29 AM.
#847
replaced 3 motors
Hello CL members. I was able to replace 3 motors in 2 front doors and one rear. I can confirm that process described here is strait forward. I spend 5 hours to do all my 3 doors.
I agree you don't have to remove window nor speaker and no side mirror as well. Disconnect a battery and you dont need to disconnect your window motor as it was said in a previous post.
A motor casing is a longest procedure and requires a lot of patient. Get a good knife or a blade and don't rush. To remove a gear from a motor use gear puller - very easy.
I want to ask everyone who did motor swap, did you guys noticed a lot of grease in a contact area where U shape contacts moves next to the motor and a big gear. See pictures below? Is it OK. I didn't check my old motors if they are alive but grease and electricity looks suspicious. Correct me if I am wrong. Also I noticed that all my motors have gear like a T30 not like rectangular piece in a post at the beginning.
I agree you don't have to remove window nor speaker and no side mirror as well. Disconnect a battery and you dont need to disconnect your window motor as it was said in a previous post.
A motor casing is a longest procedure and requires a lot of patient. Get a good knife or a blade and don't rush. To remove a gear from a motor use gear puller - very easy.
I want to ask everyone who did motor swap, did you guys noticed a lot of grease in a contact area where U shape contacts moves next to the motor and a big gear. See pictures below? Is it OK. I didn't check my old motors if they are alive but grease and electricity looks suspicious. Correct me if I am wrong. Also I noticed that all my motors have gear like a T30 not like rectangular piece in a post at the beginning.
#848
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To the original poster and all the guys after that made this very inexpensive repair possible through trial and error.... Thank You! I replaced both my right front and right rear door actuator motors. They are both working great. I have a 2000 GS400 and my motor gear was rectangular unlike the one pictured above.
Also I didnt see much instruction for removing the rear actuator. For me it was pretty much the same as the front but the outside door handle did not have to come out and there were not any cables running to the outside door handle. I just loosened the bottom of the rear window track and then took my time wiggling the lock assembly out. If anyone is needing help and they are close to Woodstock Ga hit me up! Thanks again guys
Also I didnt see much instruction for removing the rear actuator. For me it was pretty much the same as the front but the outside door handle did not have to come out and there were not any cables running to the outside door handle. I just loosened the bottom of the rear window track and then took my time wiggling the lock assembly out. If anyone is needing help and they are close to Woodstock Ga hit me up! Thanks again guys
#850
Pole Position
yes i can confirm that this works... spent a few hours last night to do this for my wife's car. but don't buy the DLA-219 online... it did NOT fit my driver's side. i purchased it 'just in case' this DIY went south... i figured i be too lazy to do this, so i bought the part. ended up that the part wasn't right... the connector had like 4 pins and the one on the car had like 6 or 7 like the pic ... anyway thought i'd give my 2 cents to say that the DLA-219 part online is not accurate. some stores label it as REAR_LEFT (which I found out later of course....) so be careful.
good luck, and as the posts write - take your time with the knife. but i did end up dremeling the case.
good luck, and as the posts write - take your time with the knife. but i did end up dremeling the case.
#851
Racer
iTrader: (8)
yes i can confirm that this works... spent a few hours last night to do this for my wife's car. but don't buy the DLA-219 online... it did NOT fit my driver's side. i purchased it 'just in case' this DIY went south... i figured i be too lazy to do this, so i bought the part. ended up that the part wasn't right... the connector had like 4 pins and the one on the car had like 6 or 7 like the pic ... anyway thought i'd give my 2 cents to say that the DLA-219 part online is not accurate. some stores label it as REAR_LEFT (which I found out later of course....) so be careful.
good luck, and as the posts write - take your time with the knife. but i did end up dremeling the case.
good luck, and as the posts write - take your time with the knife. but i did end up dremeling the case.
#852
Pole Position
I don't understand this post. It sounds like the part is correct, but you just purchased the wrong part for your needs because you were trying to fix the driver's door. For instance, RockAuto has the same part you are talking about for Rear Left and it states 4 pins on their site. I was thinking about just buying that for my rear left door. By looking at the pic alone you will realize it doesn't fit your driver's door.
Anyway thanks for all who contributed to this thread, helped me out greatly. Esp the YouTube video guy/couple.
#853
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I did this several years ago on 2 doors of my 99 gs300. Worked great and now the other doors need it as well. To get the case open, I used a fresh single edge razor blade and a small hobby hammer. I got the blade lined up and several light taps later, the case was apart with very clean edges for re-assembly. A little JB weld around the case and it was good as new. This is a great DIY project and a huge money saver.
#854
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In case your actuator fails and the door does not unlock either manually or electrically, you can use one of these style screw drivers to pop off the lock button and then manually pull it with some pliers. Had to do that on my rear passenger door, not really sure what happened, but the arm that controls the lock on the actuator was starting to come apart. Hopefully you all can be that lucky if yours starts to go. Like I said, pop the button off and pull it manually and the door will unlock. Mine got jammed up good. Wedge it under neath the lock button and it pops right out without damaging anything.
The one we used looked like the top two.
The one we used looked like the top two.
#855
Pole Position
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BTW, is there a replacement part number for the front door actuators or do you have to replace the whole lock assy with part#6903030880 and 6904030840? I havent taken them apart in awhile but it seems to me that they look similar to the rears. Do they have a different pin out?