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what is the best way to install the crank seal? I just ruined 1 and don't want to happen again.. thank you for the guidance..
You could get you one of those seal installation kits for about $100. Or you could do what I did and go the Home Depot and get some PVC pipe. I got a couple of 2 inch (I think) diameter PVC pipe caps and drilled (with a hole saw) a 1 1/2 inch whole in each; big enough for the crank to fit thru. Then I bought a piece of 2 inch diameter PVC nipple about 4 inches long. Put the cap on each end of the nipple, put the seal in place, put the PVC set up in place and used the crank bolt to make the PVC force the seal in place. I may be off on the size of the caps and nipples but you should get the idea. Also, you may want to lube the seal before seating. Oil is good, silicone is better although you have to work kinda quickly with the silicon as it will get tacky after a few minutes. But it makes a good seal. Total cost including the hole saw was about $10. Hope this helps.
I have to redo my timing belt.. but i am confused on how to align the timing belt with the crank..
To install:
10. Align the installation mark on the timing belt with the drilled mark of the crankshaft timing pulley. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing pulley, No. 1 idler pulley and the No. 2 idler pulley.
NOTE: If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, be sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.
11. Install the timing belt guide (No. 1 crank angle sensor plate) with the cup side facing forward. Replace the timing belt cover spacer.
12. Install the No. 1 timing belt cover and tighten the mounting bolts. On the SC400, install the hydraulic pump. Install the fan bracket.
13. Align the pulley set key on the crankshaft with the key groove of the pulley. Install the pulley, using the proper tool to tap in the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm).
14. Align the knock pin on the right side camshaft with the knock pin of the timing pulley. Slide on the timing pulley with the right side mark facing forward. Tighten the bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
15. Align the knock pin on the left side camshaft with the knock pin of the timing pulley. Slide on the timing pulley with the left side mark facing forward. Tighten the bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
16. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the 0 timing mark on the No. 1 timing belt cover. Using the proper tool, turn the crankshaft timing pulley and align the timing marks of the camshaft timing pulley and the timing belt rear plate.
17. Install the timing belt to the left side camshaft timing pulley by:
A. Using the proper tool, slightly turn the left side timing pulley clockwise. Align the installation mark of the timing belt with the timing mark of the camshaft timing pulley and hang the timing belt on the left side camshaft pulley.
B. Using the proper tool, align the timing marks of the left side camshaft pulley and the timing belt rear plate.
C. Check that the timing belt has tension between crankshaft timing pulley and the left side camshaft pulley.
18. Install the timing belt to the right side camshaft timing pulley by:
A. Using the proper tool, slightly turn the right side timing pulley clockwise. Align the installation mark of the timing belt with the timing mark of the camshaft timing pulley and hang the timing belt on the right side camshaft pulley.
B. Using the proper tool, align the timing marks of the right side camshaft pulley and the timing belt rear plate.
C. Check that the timing belt has tension between the crankshaft timing pulley and the right side camshaft pulley.
19. The timing belt tensioner must be set prior to installation. The tensioner can be set as follows:
A. Place a plate washer between the tensioner and a block. Using a suitable press, press in the pushrod using 220–2205 lbs. (100–1000kg) of pressure.
B. Align the holes of the pushrod and housing, pass the proper tool (0.05 in. Allen wrench) through the holes to keep the setting position of the pushrod.
C. Release the press and install the dust boot on the tensioner.
20. Install the tensioner and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Remove the tool from the tensioner.
21. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions from TDC-to-TDC. Always turn the crankshaft clockwise. Check that each pulley aligns with the timing marks.
22. Install all remaining components in the reverse order of removal.
I just copied and pasted from OP's original post which i hope pinoryder started reading at post 1... There's also that Youtube video on the LS430 and he explains how to set the timing...
After Googling, this is the set I was able to find, for the UZ engine. If you already have the holder/puller setup for a S engine, you'll just need the holder ($100, companion-flange/pin work) and claw #3 ($65x2, hanger/slide/center-bolt work).
Crankshaft holder (to break and torque the crank bolt)
09213-70011 - Crankshaft Pulley Holder
09330-00021 - Companion Flange Holding Tool which may or may not include:
09330-00030 - Toyota Pin
Crankshaft puller (to get the pulley off)
09950-50013 - Universal Puller Set "C" breaks down to:
09951-05010 - Hanger 150
09952-05010 - Slide arm
09953-05020 - Center Bolt 150
09954-05031 - Claw #3
/).
After cleaning and replacing the crank seal, water pump, both tensioners, rebuilding the power steering pump and replacing the valve cover tube seals, I was ready to reinstall the timing belt when I ran into a problem.
Long story short, after attempting to route the timing belt, I found that it will would not fit because the Left cam has moved Clockwise.
From what I've read, the Left (drivers) cam may spring counterclockwise after removing the belt (mine did not move at all), but it appears mine "creeped" clockwise instead. I think because it has been sitting without the belt for 2-3 weeks?
1. Is this surprising that it moved without the belt after sitting? Is it the VVTi?
2. When the cam moves counterclockwise its advised to just rotate it back manually. However, given that mine has rotated clockwise is it still alright to rotate it "back" counterclockwise? Should I instead rotate it clockwise a full rotation? If I was to only rotate the Left cam 360 degrees clockwise, what does that mean for the timing of the crank and right cam gears?
Hello, I am doing this job for the first time and need a bit of help.
For better or worse, I followed the 50 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) method during removal of timing belt. I followed the how to from Randy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/landar...7622883357340/).
After cleaning and replacing the crank seal, water pump, both tensioners, rebuilding the power steering pump and replacing the valve cover tube seals, I was ready to reinstall the timing belt when I ran into a problem.
Long story short, after attempting to route the timing belt, I found that it will would not fit because the Left cam has moved Clockwise.
From what I've read, the Left (drivers) cam may spring counterclockwise after removing the belt (mine did not move at all), but it appears mine "creeped" clockwise instead. I think because it has been sitting without the belt for 2-3 weeks?
1. Is this surprising that it moved without the belt after sitting? Is it the VVTi?
2. When the cam moves counterclockwise its advised to just rotate it back manually. However, given that mine has rotated clockwise is it still alright to rotate it "back" counterclockwise? Should I instead rotate it clockwise a full rotation? If I was to only rotate the Left cam 360 degrees clockwise, what does that mean for the timing of the crank and right cam gears?
I would greatly appreciate any guidance on this!
Did this job, took 12 hrs. Not the most difficult, yet definitely the most complex and detailed. I have a thread out there about how badly timed the belt was.
It's not for better or worse, 50deg is prescribed by the factory manual, and the way to do it.
1. For that long, wouldn't find it surprising.
2. See below... we've never had an issue if it's only a few teeth. The question is... how many teeth clockwise?
If it's only a few teeth, shouldn't be an issue going back. If you tried to go forward, I'd think that you'd drive the valves in to the piston top... if anything, where it is now, might be where it has gently settled, a valve touching a piston. If you tried to go forward, you probably couldn't, from interference, physical contact... going backward would untouch the valve/piston.
Seem to remember everything was based on this 50deg advance, of the crank pulley... and that there should be a marking on the crank pulley to indicate that 50deg. The crank pulley goes forward 50deg, and the cam pulleys go forward 25deg each. If you're using a Genuine Lexus timing belt, it should have (3) painted dots, that align to the 0deg timing marks on the crank/cam pulleys... NOT the engine or head markings. Once those three white dots are aligned, and the tensioners are torqued, you should be able to rotate the crank 310deg forward for one rotation (the cams should rotate twice), so that all three pulleys are now again aligned to the 0deg mark.
Randy's pictures are incorrect when he shows the belt at 50*. The cams should line up with "T" mark. That is why your cams moved...
The crank is most likely not in the correct position. Post pictures of your crank and cams timing marks so we can see what you have.
Randy's pictures are incorrect when he shows the belt at 50*. The cams should line up with "T" mark. That is why your cams moved...
The crank is most likely not in the correct position. Post pictures of your crank and cams timing marks so we can see what you have.
Here is the correct cam position for 50* ATDC
Alright here are some photos. I took a picture at nearly every step. so I have more if needed. I realize...now, that things are not even lined up at 50ATDC, instead a bit greater. I marked the belt where TDC was after advancing (redmarks). White marks on Left cam are TDC and the T for reference.
Before pics show red mark lined up at TDC, but when I was ready to reinstall the belt (2 weeks or so later) it has shifted clockwise.
How I did the 50ATDC---I now realize that I was supposed to line it up with the tensioner instead of the left cam, so its actually greater than 50? The crank pulley mark lined up with the left cam I marked the belt after the 50ATDC adjustment ...just in case (red mark). This is the left (drivers) AFTER Left cam. When I was ready to reinstall belt. Notice the red mark (lined up with TDC before is now advanced right. AFTER right cam. When ready to reinstall (Red mark). did not appear to move.
@mullinsan The timing marks are all over the place, none in correct position for removal or install that I can see.
If your crank is lined up with 50* try to move your cam sprockets back to the "T" by hand, other than that just follow the factory instructions that I have attached.
06-08-14, 09:56 PM
