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Pictures: GS400 timing belt parts and part #'s. How-to soon.

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Old 09-23-07, 03:34 PM   #31
JPI Racing
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Originally Posted by whazzzzuup View Post
The T and the "l" are the same distance apart on both heads. I used the T for the timing, but it would not matter if I used the "l" for the timing. As long as the belt was put on the same way the old one was removed, there should not be a problem.
It does matter!!! This is how many people bent their valves. BTW, all the valves weren't on TDC(Top Death Center). The VVT-I seem to go off by on it own. Once you crank it over the valves will touch. It doesn't take much at all to bend these valves. There is an oil mark on the oil pump, make sure you line that up with the mark on the crank sprocket. I've done hundreds of 1uz, 2uz and 3uz belt replacement. This is not the right way.
Please listen to GAZI.
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Last edited by JPI Racing; 09-23-07 at 03:38 PM..
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Old 09-23-07, 04:27 PM   #32
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jus purchased the same parts from a wholesaler down here but i was told u should also change the camshaft seals and idler pulleys....
if u dont change them and they go bad you gotta take everything off again and u should change the valve cover gasket too , thats jus what i was told....
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Old 09-23-07, 04:33 PM   #33
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jus purchased the same parts from a wholesaler down here but i was told u should also change the camshaft seals and idler pulleys....
if u dont change them and they go bad you gotta take everything off again and u should change the valve cover gasket too , thats jus what i was told....
If you want to replace the camshaft seals the cams would have to come off. These seals do last a long long time. This is one of those thing "If it not broken(or leak), Don't fix it".
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Last edited by JPI Racing; 09-23-07 at 06:35 PM..
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Old 09-23-07, 04:38 PM   #34
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If you want to replace the camshaft seals the cams would have to come off. These seals do last a long long time. This is one of those thing "If it not broke, Don't fix it".
JPI
-yeah i was told that too , if its not broken dont fix those but dam w/ my luck when i change everything and i didnt change those seals and pulleys they would brake in like a week hahaha shietty deals....
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Old 09-23-07, 09:24 PM   #35
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Don't get it wrong so quadruple check your marks, also the t-belt is marked. Also I would change the crank seal while you have the front covers off, be really careful to not scratch the crank AT ALL or it will leak forever and the only way to repair is to replace the scratched crank. Those seals are somewhat difficult to get off so be super careful. I personally think if you don't know what your doing don't do this but good luck....
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Old 09-24-07, 08:44 AM   #36
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great thread
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Old 09-24-07, 09:11 AM   #37
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i hope future diyers read the whole thread!!!!
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Old 09-26-07, 05:36 AM   #38
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I am confused by the timing marks. In the picture it shows the belt lining up with the T on both the right and left side does this mean that the crank is not lined up? I think this needs some further discussion as it is confusing? I would think that in this case if you used the "I" then the crank would not line up right or if you used the "T" and you where supposed to use the I then the crank would not line up. Can someone take and post pictures of what it is supposed to look like?

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Old 09-26-07, 05:52 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by bmpiazzola View Post
I am confused by the timing marks. In the picture it shows the belt lining up with the T on both the right and left side does this mean that the crank is not lined up? I think this needs some further discussion as it is confusing? I would think that in this case if you used the "I" then the crank would not line up right or if you used the "T" and you where supposed to use the I then the crank would not line up. Can someone take and post pictures of what it is supposed to look like?

Thanks,
B
dont look at the pics, pics are wrong. set the crank to 0, line it up with the |, simple as that.
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Old 09-26-07, 11:34 AM   #40
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^That is correct. I made it more complicated than it could have been. I lined it up to the "T" marks; and made my own mark with a grease pencil by the crankshaft pulley. The timing is correct, but it could have been easier (just a tad).
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Old 09-26-07, 11:37 AM   #41
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The timing wasn't correct. Put your crank pulley mark on 0. When working on VTT-i engines, Just a tad will cause the valves to bend.
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Last edited by JPI Racing; 09-26-07 at 11:47 AM..
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Old 09-26-07, 12:12 PM   #42
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Where is the "I" that you are talking about? Is that the hash mark to the left of the "T"?

I'm confused....
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Old 09-26-07, 01:06 PM   #43
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Where is the "I" that you are talking about? Is that the hash mark to the left of the "T"?

I'm confused....
If you put the crank pulley on 0, Everything will be on TDC.
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Old 09-26-07, 01:11 PM   #44
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Take a look at the crank pulley mark. It's right on 0 degree.
Click the image to open in full size.
This is how you time the crank and cam timing. If any folks decided to be creative with the timing and do it some other way. Be my guest!!!!!!!
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Old 09-26-07, 03:58 PM   #45
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That looks good, JPI. Because I lined mine up to the T, my crank pulley was marked at a negative number of degrees.

0 degrees on the crank pulley and belt markings on "l".
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Old 09-26-07, 03:58 PM
 
 
 
 
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