GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

how to add freon to a/c system

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Old 06-16-08, 07:03 PM
  #31  
BCP43002
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This is from the Lexus repair manual on diagnosis and repair of A/C problems. I don't know if it is true or if it is Lexus trying to scare us from making A/C repairs:
Lexus does not recommend the use of A/C system sealants for minor
repair of leaks or as a preventative additive during system service.
System sealants may cause gumming of system passages and may even
result in magnetic clutch engagement problems if the leak is at the
compressor front seal. Warranty reimbursement could be denied if a
subsequent component failure is linked to the use of sealants in a
Lexus system. The air conditioning supplier company (Denso[), does not
recommend sealant products in the system. If not performed properly, flushing
out residual sealant gum may result in serious consequences.
Several charging station equipment manufacturers have stated that
their equipment is damaged by the use of both system sealant and
refrigerant dye products being present in the A/C system. Damage by
contamination is not included in the equipment warranty and cannot
be repaired at the dealership.
Old 06-17-08, 03:26 PM
  #32  
PR FIEBRU
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is there a difference between the gs3 and the gs4. does on have R-12 and the other R-134a
Old 06-17-08, 03:44 PM
  #33  
jaja
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for sure, don't use a sealant. i'm assuming its like a tire sealant - has some gooy (sp?) stuff that finds itself into the leak and patches itself. problem is that stuff ends up in the system and screws stuff up. friend in the tire industry told me that the tire sealant stuff is the worst thing you can do in case of a flat. literally eats up the inside of the tire.

as for R-12 - i think the cutoff time was 1993 or 1994. hence anything before that is R-12, anything after is R134a. reason i know is that i own two cars in this time frame and did some research when i bought them. i think it was EPA regulation related or something like that. I think its more 1GS or 2GS than GS300/400. 1GS may be R-12, cutoff time may be as early as 92. but if you're just trying to find out what kind of gas you have - it should be on the backside of the hood. (but if you own a 2GS, i'll bet that its R-134a)
Old 06-17-08, 04:42 PM
  #34  
minla007
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thanks for all your help fellas. i bought a recharge kit for $19 and did it today. now both sides are blowing ice cold. worked like a charm.

still not sure what the real problem is. leak? sensor? motor? i duno.
Old 07-03-10, 05:25 PM
  #35  
poohunny
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yes...I know I am reviving this from the dead...but am wondering minla007, how long did the refill last for? If there is a leak I cannot imagine it lasting long...
Old 07-04-10, 04:40 AM
  #36  
jaja
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for some reason, i do this every year. yep i know there's got to be a leak somewhere... but everytime i recharge the gas, it lasts the summer. ice cold until the next summer. probably some gaskets or something somewhere.
Old 07-04-10, 01:15 PM
  #37  
sleeper408
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So I'm confused, The High and Low side both have to be refilled? Or mainly Low? Does Low mean when the A/C is blowing at lower pressure? I feel like my A/C is not blowing as cold anymore and it may be time for a recharge. I just had my gf's Accord A/C system evacuated and refilled. I think it was around $150 for 2 lbs. of refrigerant and labor. I think I should have done it on my own instead and saved some money. As a DIY'er, is there any way to thoroughly evacuate the A/C system if you were to do this at home with one of those R134a bottle/gauge?
Old 07-04-10, 04:47 PM
  #38  
poohunny
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sleeper, I filled mine up with a bottle for 25 bucks....although my problem is definitely a leak somewhere, as the air was mildly cold for a few moments before blowing hot air again...compressor sounds like it is kicking in, so I'm sure the leak is the problem. I wonder if it's cheaper to get seals and lines replaced than it is to have the compressor replaced...if it smelled like r134a briefly in the cockpit with the fan on, is that likely the evap core?

But yeah, DIY all the way...your lady's accord cost more to do than a Lexus...lol
Old 07-06-10, 09:29 AM
  #39  
minla007
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Originally Posted by poohunny
yes...I know I am reviving this from the dead...but am wondering minla007, how long did the refill last for? If there is a leak I cannot imagine it lasting long...
well its been over 2 yrs now since i did it and so far, so good. ac is still ice cold after i added refridgerent stuff...i've been using a lot lately too cuz its been fockin hot!
Old 07-06-10, 07:34 PM
  #40  
poohunny
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Holy crap...maybe the freon was just too old....??? I sure as hell have a leak in mine. The mechanic pumped some refrigerant into it and it wouldn't hold it at all. It was audible too. Here's hoping the remanned compressor I just got off of ebay works....
Old 08-02-10, 04:47 PM
  #41  
dl11
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Originally Posted by Olu
Okay, I've been waiting for my AC to die. It was diagnosed with a condensor leak about 3 months ago and Lexus wanted over $2000 to replace it. Since I'm not sure how much longer I'm going to keep the car I decided to see how long until it needed a refill. Well 3 months later and it was on the brink of dying.

After reading this thread I decided to have a go at it. This is just a hair more difficult then pumping gas or filling up your washer fluid.

Go to PEP boys or local auto-shop. I purchased an Interdynamics (iD) freon refill kit. Comes with 2 bottles and a hose with a gauge attached.

Turn the car on and crank the AC.

Find the port with the big "L" on it. Unscrew it.

On this kit the attachment has an outer ring back that you pull back, then it engages automatically. The 1st time I didn't push down hard enough

The gauge is pretty self-explanatory. You want to be in the blue zone. Green is too low, Yellow and Red is too high. My was in the Green. All you do is fill it until it's back in the blue zone.

On this kit, you only get readings when you stop injecting so stop frequently when you start getting near the yellow zone.

Took my less then 5 minutes in my work clothes.
Thank you and everyone else for this post. It was quite informative and now I know how to add refrigerant to any car ac system and how to tell if it's working. I think I'm going to get the long connector because the 12 inch one that came with this was not long enough for the V8. Also my pressure was low, around 38 psi. Got it up to 45 but didn't realize I needed 2 of them.
Old 08-03-10, 10:14 AM
  #42  
1UZJAY
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$50 at any a/c shop will get you want you want; plus they'll vaccum and clean out and recharge the system. I mean it costs like $25 for a hose and a can of r134 already..so just pay for a knowledgeable person to do it and watch what they do..so you can learn next time.
Old 08-04-10, 10:25 AM
  #43  
sakataj
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Originally Posted by poohunny
Holy crap...maybe the freon was just too old....???
freon doesnt get "old" man

Originally Posted by dl11
Also my pressure was low, around 38 psi. Got it up to 45 but didn't realize I needed 2 of them.
um i hate to break it to you but 38psi on a car ISNT low....thats bout spot on. although 45 is a little high

Originally Posted by 1UZJAY
$50 at any a/c shop will get you want you want; plus they'll vaccum and clean out and recharge the system. I mean it costs like $25 for a hose and a can of r134 already..so just pay for a knowledgeable person to do it and watch what they do..so you can learn next time.
really....$50 at any ac shop will get you what you want? yeah NOT even close sir....a CHEAP (ie crappy) set of gauges are typically more than $50 and this wont include the vacuum pump you will use IF you pump down the system (btw if u just adding freon u dont have to pump down the unit) and then you need the freon .

what do u mean by clean out the system BTW?
Old 08-05-10, 06:54 PM
  #44  
bamin1966
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Sakataj,

My AC in not blowing cold air. Got the refill kit and when i connected the gauge it showed about 95 psi (AC / fan was turned to max) in the red zone which indicated mechanical problem.

Also read servo issues threads, here is my situation:
1) When AC was working there used be clicking sounds behind the driver panel. Now I cannot hear anything.

2) As the temps in FL are around 90F I cannot test if it is blow hot when heaters on

I do see when the AC is switched on the RPM increase.

So not sure how to check if this is a servo issue

Appreciate any help.
Old 08-05-10, 07:07 PM
  #45  
dl11
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Well, it worked pretty well for me though. My ac just wasn't blowing that cold. I would say it was cool and took a long time for it to become cold. So, I adjusted the gauge on the bottle to 95 deg F which listed a zone of about 45-55 psi. I saw that mine was around 38 psi after it was on for a while and I had been driving. So, I pumped the can in which got me to 45 psi. Now, it blows cool-cold within a min or 2 after turning the car on while its been sitting in the sun. According to the gauge, I was at the min after filling it up. Guess I got lucky? Anyways, I saw my mechanic had the gauges and should have let him do it.

Originally Posted by sakataj
freon doesnt get "old" man



um i hate to break it to you but 38psi on a car ISNT low....thats bout spot on. although 45 is a little high



really....$50 at any ac shop will get you what you want? yeah NOT even close sir....a CHEAP (ie crappy) set of gauges are typically more than $50 and this wont include the vacuum pump you will use IF you pump down the system (btw if u just adding freon u dont have to pump down the unit) and then you need the freon .

what do u mean by clean out the system BTW?


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