lex4

Hi Fellow Lexi owners!

I have a starter to replace and need some info as to how to remove the intake manifold from the engine block. I have removed the six nuts and/or bolts but I cant budge it.
Any suggestions? picture included
Thanks
Alex

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

There should be 6 bolts and 4 nuts. the 6 bolts you removed are in red. The 4 nuts are located in each corner of the manifold.

GSquicksilver

oh boy....you're in for a tough one.

as far as i remember when i changed mine out...

1. unplug fuel injector cables
2. disconnect fuel line near the brake master cylinder (plug it up so it won't spill)
3. remove throttle body
4. remove throttle cable
5. wire harnesses around intake manifold need to be taken out/loosened
6. remove rear coolant line (you'll see it, it's a metal pipe)

i'm not sure if there were any more things you needed to remove. it's been 2 years since i've done this, so my memory is not that fresh. you might want to try to wiggle the intake manifold, or try to find something to jam in there to pry it loose, as the intake manifold gaskets might be stuck.

good luck

GSquicksilver

yup, gsteg is correct, there are those additional nuts he highlighted in yellow.

GSquicksilver

oh, and the intake manifold is pretty heavy. you might want to get a buddy to help you lift it out of the car.

gapxguy

The IM is about the same size as my DOHC Honda cylinder head.

lex4

You Guys rock!!!

Thanks

Alex

lex4

Here is another angle, I did get the four corners out and the two in the middle. What exactly do you mean that it is very heavy?
Thanks

Alex

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Were you able to take out the 6 bolts/4 nuts shown in the picture?

The intake manifold is quite heavy, as in the weight of it. It's easy to pick it up from the ground, but when the manifold sits in the engine bay like that, you're going to have to bend over to take it out.

I've done many of this in my old car and let me tell you, my back muscle was sore for a few days.

lex4

Hi!

I've taken the corner nuts off and two cetre bolts. I was confused as to how many bolts I had to take out

Thanks

Alex

gserep1

I did this job last year, and it was pretty straightforward. Here are a few tips.
1. The intake manifold is actually in 2 pieces..(upper and lower). SOME folks disassemble the top and then the bottom. To save time and money, DO NOT diassemble it. It comes off together in one piece. NO bolts should be removed from the top of the intake manifold. The nuts for removal are down near the heads. The studs will be sticking up. If the manifold is separated, you will need a gasket to put the two pieces back together. You will probably have a vacuum leak if the gasket is damaged and not replaced. Plus the fuel rack and injectors stay intact if the upper and lower manifold stays assembled.

2. The 8 fuel injector electrical connectors should be removed one at a time. This is best done on a cold engine. I tried to do it all in one day but the engine was too hot. Wait until cool and you can stand to put your hands where they need to be without burning them.

3. Disconnect the fuel line near the master cylinder. I used brake line tools to prevent stripping the connections or rounding them off. The rubber line will come off with the intake manifold.

4. Lift the manifold off the engine and look at each head. The mating surface between each head and the intake manifold will have a gasket/phenolic spacer assembly on each head. It serves 2 purposes:

A. The black plastic spacer assembly consists of the plastic
ceramic spacer sandwiched between 2 paper gaskets. One
gasket is on top, and one gasket is on the bottom of the
spacer. The lower gasket seals the head, and the upper
gasket seals the intake manifold you just removed.

B. The black plastic spacer keeps the air temperature cool
going into the head. It prevents metal-to-metal contact
between the manifold and head, resulting in a cooler air
going to the engine. These spacer/gaskets sell for about 20
bucks per side, so you need 2 for this engine. Notice the
way the old gaskets come out, and install the new ones
back the same way. There should be little or no cleaning
required, and no adhesive is needed.

Place them over the studs and they will drop in place ready
for the intake manifold to be re-installed. They cannot be
reused, or you risk air / fuel leakage. The spacer is notched
on each cylinder port so that the fuel injector sprays fuel
through it into the head, and the intake port brings air into
the head as well.

5. To gain unfettered access to the starter, the rear water bypass joint assembly at the rear of the engine should also be removed. This crossover connects the coolant from one head to the other and feeds the heater inside the car. One heater hose from the firewall will be connected to this bypass. There are 2 nuts on each head that must be removed. Once all 4 nuts have been removed, the entire bypass joint assembly can be lifted up and out of the way.

There should be no coolant leakage when the bypass joint assembly is removed. I would have rags/towels available just in case a small amount comes out. Mine did not leak at all at this point, as the engine was cold, and I had the radiator cap removed when the crossover came off to allow some movement of coolant.

The coolant will be visible in the head right up to the top when the bypass joint is removed. This is a good time to look at the condition of the coolant, and change it later if needed.

There are metal gaskets between the head and the bypass that must be replaced. One gasket on each head. Replace these gaskets if the bypass assembly is removed. Like the other spacers/gaskets, no adhesive is required, as the parts fit perfectly when bolted together with gaskets in place. Only limited cleaning should be required.

IF THE REAR WATER BYPASS JOINT IS NOT REMOVED, ACCESS TO THE 2 STARTER BOLTS WILL BE SEVERELY LIMITED. The upper starter bolt is extremely close to the bypass assembly, and some folks have heated and bent a wrench to fit around the assembly instead of removing it. It is easier to remove the manifold than to fashion a wrench to go around it. Once the starter is out, the ring gear around the torque converter can be plainly seen. Hopefully it has no bad spots visible. Mine was perfect.

6. The starter should come out very easy. Make sure the new starter goes in and fits perfectly before bolting it in. It CAN be installed slightly cocked, which will result in the engine not starting once it is all assembled. If there is rust/dirt preventing the starter from going in flush, clean the hole where it rests, and try again. Install the 2 bolts through the block near the firewall out back and tighten to specs. Make the electrical connections, and reinstall removed parts in the reverse order of disassembly.

GOOD LUCK! It goes pretty easy. I did mine in 2 1/2 hours singlehandedly. The intake manifold is kind of awkward, but it can be done. Having a second person to help would be ideal.

lex4

Thanks a lot GSEREP1

Alex

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

This should help also.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...=starter+gs400

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Try pulling the whole head off a GS300 engine. Now that's some serious back breaking work lol. Back bent at a 90'degree angle for hours on end...fun stuff!

lex4

Hi Again!

Well I'm still confused about the red bolts, Do they go trough a bumber? The other two went through the manifold cover to the engine dead centre.
????

Alex