DIY: Rear lower brace installation

JeffTsai · 05-01-07, 02:18 AM

I bought one of those $100 rear braces off ebay. Build quality is pretty decent, but theres a small section where the paint came off. Just cosmetic though and shouldn't affect anything. Anyways on with the installation guide!

Start by pulling off the plastic covers. Do it for both sides.

10mm socket to remove the small bolt holding on the covers.

Loosen the plastic straps holding on the gas tank. 14mm socket.

Do it for both sides. Don't worry the gas tank won't fall on you. It's supported by other stuff

Remove the big bolts holding part of the rear crossmember.

Do it for both sides. Again the rear end is not gonna drop on you so don't worry lol. I was scared of that when doing the install.

It's a pretty big bolt...as it should be because it's holding part of the rear crossmember.

JeffTsai · 05-01-07, 02:23 AM

Use two jacks to hold up the gas tank back in position when bolting everything back up.

When doing the rear, notice how the crossmember drops a bit after the bolt is removed. Use a jack to push the crossmember back in place so the bolt can go in the hole.

Another shot before jacking it up.

Use a jack to raise the crossmember back up. See no more gap

Tighten everything up and you're done.

I slapped a TRD decal on there for kicks

JeffTsai · 05-01-07, 02:31 AM

A few things to keep in mind.

-You will no longer need that plastic cover. It won't fit back in place after the brace is in place.
-The plastic straps holding the gask tank are very very tight. You will have to raise the tank back into the upright position and pull very hard on the straps to line them back up in place.
-I thought there was something wrong with my brace because the holes didn't line. It was because I tightened down the two front gas tank ones all the way already. Make sure you don't tighten any of the bolts all the way until the very end. Even if you have 1 bolt that is all the way down, it's gong to push the brace down and none of the other bolt holes will line up.

Thoughs and impressions:
The brace really tightens up the rear end. It was pretty sloppy before I put the brace in. Now the whole car turns in unison like one solid box. Before it was like a truck pulling a trailer with the front turning first and rear squirming and catching up a split second later. This bar has a lot of tension and preload in it which is what makes it work so great. Note how I said the holes will not line up unless you tighten all the bolts evenly. Once everything is tightened up, you will notice the whole brace flexes down a bit and puts a preload on the chassis vs a bar that lines up perfectly with no tension on the chassis. This is what makes it so rigid and keeps the whole rear end together thru high speed turns

This is a very noticable upgrade and I recommend it!

PureDrifter · 05-01-07, 03:50 AM

nice write up

wish they had this for the 2LS, the only ones i could find so far are made by toms and i dont think those have any preload

carbongs · 05-01-07, 04:21 AM

verey nice install thanks for the DIY. it'll def come in handy when i get my hands on one

o2GS43o · 05-01-07, 07:56 AM

Nice write up

eman88 · 05-01-07, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffTsai

A few things to keep in mind.

-You will no longer need that plastic cover. It won't fit back in place after the brace is in place.
-The plastic straps holding the gask tank are very very tight. You will have to raise the tank back into the upright position and pull very hard on the straps to line them back up in place.
-I thought there was something wrong with my brace because the holes didn't line. It was because I tightened down the two front gas tank ones all the way already. Make sure you don't tighten any of the bolts all the way until the very end. Even if you have 1 bolt that is all the way down, it's gong to push the brace down and none of the other bolt holes will line up.

Thoughs and impressions:
The brace really tightens up the rear end. It was pretty sloppy before I put the brace in. Now the whole car turns in unison like one solid box. Before it was like a truck pulling a trailer with the front turning first and rear squirming and catching up a split second later. This bar has a lot of tension and preload in it which is what makes it work so great. Note how I said the holes will not line up unless you tighten all the bolts evenly. Once everything is tightened up, you will notice the whole brace flexes down a bit and puts a preload on the chassis vs a bar that lines up perfectly with no tension on the chassis. This is what makes it so rigid and keeps the whole rear end together thru high speed turns

This is a very noticable upgrade and I recommend it!

Glad you like it, everyday since I installed mine driving the car is such a pleasure....

tmf2004 · 05-01-07, 10:30 AM

Nice write up Jeff....I have a 3 Ton Jack so it seems hard for me to jack the car up right in the miiddle where the gear box is.. Any thoughts on how to fix this? Also about how long did it take..

Also how is the car Jacked up when you have the jacks under the gas tank? DId you jack the car up first... ? I only have a 3 Ton and a 2 ton jack with 2 adjustable stands.. Will this work.. When it comes to jacking up the car I'm not to comfortable... Thanks

Tony

JeffTsai · 05-01-07, 11:22 AM

Tony, when jacking up the rear I lift it from the rear differential. I put a block of wood on the jack so it doesn't scratch the diff. After the car is up, put jackstands on the 2 sides of the car and you can take away the jack. Use that jack and the factory jack to hold up the gas tank when putting everything back together.

Edit: I didn't see the part where you said you had trouble fitting your jack under there. I'd recommend you to get a low profile jack like mine. It makes lifting the car soooo much easier

Anyways, if there is no other way. Raise the rear end of the car with jacks on both sides of the car and then put jackstans in place and then take away the jacks. Be careful when using a non-factory jack in the factory jack location(where the 2 grooves are in the outer frame rail). That rail gets bent really easily if you use a non-factory jack.

GSquicksilver · 05-01-07, 12:25 PM

did you add the trd logo on it or did it come like that?

*edit: nevermind, i saw ur comment

sockfocks · 05-01-07, 01:31 PM

very very interesting...how much was this brace?

eman88 · 05-01-07, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sockfocks

very very interesting...how much was this brace?

I paid $89 for mine

tmf2004 · 05-01-07, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffTsai

Tony, when jacking up the rear I lift it from the rear differential. I put a block of wood on the jack so it doesn't scratch the diff. After the car is up, put jackstands on the 2 sides of the car and you can take away the jack. Use that jack and the factory jack to hold up the gas tank when putting everything back together.

Edit: I didn't see the part where you said you had trouble fitting your jack under there. I'd recommend you to get a low profile jack like mine. It makes lifting the car soooo much easier

Anyways, if there is no other way. Raise the rear end of the car with jacks on both sides of the car and then put jackstans in place and then take away the jacks. Be careful when using a non-factory jack in the factory jack location(where the 2 grooves are in the outer frame rail). That rail gets bent really easily if you use a non-factory jack.

Thanks Jeff...

Where could i pick up a low profile jack like that? My 3 Ton fits under neath fine from the rear but the handle hits the rear bumper.....strange....

thanks

Tony

Lexbox · 05-01-07, 02:39 PM

Nice writeup Jeff, it will come in handy soon.

tmf2004 · 05-01-07, 02:50 PM

Just and FYI i checked fleabay and the seller has two auctions going for the rear lower bar.. One auction is a BIN of 99.00 and the other auction is a BIN for 159.00. I don't understand the price difference but this guy looks like he's jacking up the price.. Both costs 50.00 bucks to ship as well.. there's 6 left at 99.00.. GL..