e-man

I must be some kind of a moron. It's that time of year again, and inasmuch as we're supposed to get hit with a big storm overnight here in Chicago, I decided it was a good time to take off the 17s and put the 16s back on for the winter.

I have used the OEM jack to tackle the job for the past several seasons, but it has been a back-breaking job, so about 6 months ago, I decided to invest in a Craftsman hydraulic floor jack, like this one:



I was a little hesitant at first because I had no idea where to position the jack to safely raise the car. I had always raised the car with the OEM jack in the stock locations on the pinch weld between the notches (where the jack stand is located below):



However, whereas the OEM jack has a deep groove in the lift plate that snuggles around the pinch weld, the hydraulic jack does not. I was concerned that by positioning the hydraulic jack right on the pinch weld, the pinch weld would bend due to the weight of the car. So, to be absolutely sure, I went to Lexus and asked the service guys to show me exactly where to jack up the car, which they gladly did, and here's how that little piece of advice worked out for me:



So, I was pretty livid at that point because I lifted the car exactly where Lexus told me to lift it, and it resulted in a nice dent (albeit purely cosmetic) in the sheet metal on the underside of the car. I was about ready to give up on the damn hydraulic jack and go back to the OEM jack when a light bulb went off. What if I did this:



So, for the past 6 months or so, whenever I need to jack up the car, I simply put the grooved piece of wood on top of the hydraulic jack plate and lift the car on the pinch weld. The groove down the center of the wood accommodates the pinch weld, and the teeth of the hydraulic jack plate actually sink into the underside of the wood. This set up worked well, that is, until tonight.

As I was jacking up one of the front corners, I heard two distinct pops and out from beneath the car shot this:



What is that, you ask? It's one of several retaining clips that holds the side skirt in place. There are 6 or 7 of them that run along the underside of the skirt, and apparently I've successfully broken off 3 of them (and I'm proud to say that it's one of my few success stories in working on the car).

So, now that I'm done rambling, I ask ya, can someone please tell me how the heck to jack up the car correctly with a hydraulic floor jack without breaking, bending or smushing anything?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Please?

e

Metlupass2

I am from Chicago too and did the same thing in my garage tonight. You can jack up the front of the car by placing the jack under the cross member, in front of the oil pan. You can jack up the rear by placing the jack under the rear differential housing.

My problem was that I didn't have a key for the locking nuts! I just got the car used a few months ago and never bothered to check. I had to drive 30 mins to the nearest Lexus dealer and buy one for $18. I finally got home and changed 3 tires and on the 4th I stripped the key!! I called the dealer and they had no more. I drove 30 mins to another Lexus dealership, but their stupid service department closes at 6! I had to call the first place and order one, hopefully it will be in in a few days. Right now my GS looks pretty stupid with 3 winter tires and wheel, and 1 stock one, but if we're supposed to get the 12" of snow it will be worth it.

e-man

Hey, welcome to CL. Let me guess. Your key looked something like this:



That happened to me too, right before I smushed the metal underneath the car. I drove to the dealership with two 16s on the driver's side and two 17s on the passenger side. It was a sweet look.

Forgive my ignorance, but I have no idea what the cross member is. Also, I doubt my jack is long enough to reach the rear differential, and even if it were long enough, knowing my luck, the car would probably tip over one way or the other because the jack was not perfectly centered.

e

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Placing the jack under the crossmembers is a great idea, but for most of us here that have lowered the car it's not an option. I have a low profile 3" hydraulic jack that wont fit under my car be it the front or back. I usually jack the car up a bit with the stock scissor jack so that there is room to slide the hydraulic one under the crossmembers. After that, jack the car up and put it on jack stands. It's pretty troublesome but it's the only way to do it if your car is lowered. The only other easier way I can think of is to buy some ramps and jack up the car up from the crossmembers once you drive up on them.

rominl

iTrader: (4)

man.... eric, can't imagine this simple task has become such a nightmare for you....

if you are just replacing the wheels, you don't need jackstand. it's a quick job. i always just jack teh car from where they say you need to put the jack stand, and just change wheel from there. no problems so far

Metlupass2

HAHA...it was a little less mangled. You will have no problem jacking up the rear differential. I have the SAME sears craftsman jack. This is from a Nissan, but the general idea is all there. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/jackUpCar/jackUpCar.html

Where in IL do you live?

Metlupass2

Yeah there is no need for jackstands. You're not gonna be going under the car for anything so it will be fine with just the jack in place. I also just jack it up on the sides where it looks right and do the front and back at once.

Heres the key that I messed up. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.

sleeper408

iTrader: (6)

I also put jackstands just as a precaution in case I bump into the hydraulic jack or something and it shifts.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

the proper place to place a floor jack is at the unibody rail (or underbody frame rail) their about 8inches of doubled up metal there to suppor the weight of the car without causing indentations place the jack closer towards front and place jack stand next to it also because you are jacks from that point it will allow for about 4-5 inches more of lift height

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

This helps me using the floor jack on the side rail.
The side lift pad.
http://www.protechproducts.net/jackpads.htm

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

I've had some issues to with the 3 ton jack not knowing where to jack the car at. A few weeks ago i painted my rear calipers and actually used the stock scissor jack and worked out fine.

ED, its hard to get underthat underbody frame rail isn't it? It seems like the big 3 ton won't reach?

T

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

tony and btw you going to orlando next weekend or what

make blocks to drive up on

get 2x4 cut 2 pieces about 36 inches cut 2 other pieces 24 inches nail 24in on top of 36in now you have a ramp to drive lowered car up on which provides more then enough clearance for 3 ton jack

e-man

Thanks for all the replies, guys. Gillexus -- this could be the answer to my problems. Thanks for the link to protechproducts:

e-man

This might work too (from eastwoodco.com web site):

e-man

Also, could someone please tell me where/what the cross member is? I assume it runs "across" the width of the car, as the name implies, but I've never had anyone point it out to me.

And one last thing. Is there anything wrong with using the stock scissors jack? I ended up using it last night and it worked just fine. Is it not safe?

e