Broke your ABS/VSC sensor? Here's how to fix it!
08-22-10, 11:36 AM
#46
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I would contact a local stereo shop that deals with the higher end gear. They will most likely have someone who can solder very well, as they should. They can probably help you out for a few shillings, and won't take nearly the time.
Just a suggestion.
Big Mack
Just a suggestion.
Big Mack
01-05-12, 01:53 PM
#53
yea i would be nice..to post picture but i just trouble shooting by just reading your tutorial its while writing by the way i didnt get lost once reading it and i was able to determine all it was that the sensors where dirty from removing them to do the coil over I just clean them out place them back and (remember to those that are installing coil over.remember to measure the cable slack so you wont put pressure on them when turning your wheels and snap the cable )then I drove around for weeks and then just last weekend the lights turn off..
01-11-12, 09:31 AM
#55
Advanced
yea i would be nice..to post picture but i just trouble shooting by just reading your tutorial its while writing by the way i didnt get lost once reading it and i was able to determine all it was that the sensors where dirty from removing them to do the coil over I just clean them out place them back and (remember to those that are installing coil over.remember to measure the cable slack so you wont put pressure on them when turning your wheels and snap the cable )then I drove around for weeks and then just last weekend the lights turn off..
01-11-12, 10:35 AM
#57
Intermediate
There is a way to shut the light off immediately after you fix the sensor. I do not remember exactly what the procedure is, but it entails brake pedal pumps and something else. You can probably find it by doing a search.
Actually I just found it. Try this it worked for me:
Go to the DLC1 connector under the hood (that's the connector with "DIAGNOSTIC" marked on top next to one of the Fuse/Relay box.
1- Connect (jump) the terminals marked "Tc" and "E1" (diagram is under cap)
2-Remove the SHORT PIN in the DIAGNOSIC connector
3-Turn ignition ON
4- Pump the BRAKE pedal 8 times within 5 seconds... this will clear the DTC code stored in the ECM
5-Remove the "Jump " wire used and reconnect the Shot Pin.
Actually I just found it. Try this it worked for me:
Go to the DLC1 connector under the hood (that's the connector with "DIAGNOSTIC" marked on top next to one of the Fuse/Relay box.
1- Connect (jump) the terminals marked "Tc" and "E1" (diagram is under cap)
2-Remove the SHORT PIN in the DIAGNOSIC connector
3-Turn ignition ON
4- Pump the BRAKE pedal 8 times within 5 seconds... this will clear the DTC code stored in the ECM
5-Remove the "Jump " wire used and reconnect the Shot Pin.
Last edited by AZGS4; 01-11-12 at 10:43 AM.
01-14-12, 04:33 PM
#58
nope it stood on for like a month and half it just turn off on it own and it feel a lot better not the brakes it felt the same even with abs light on.just when it rain had to be careful not to lock the wheels .., but my throttle response has come back it more snappy too.
Last edited by neojungle1; 01-14-12 at 04:37 PM.
