water in floor drivers side
07-27-06, 12:29 PM
#16
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great! My wifes 99 GS300 just started to have a damp driver's side floorboard. We took the car to the dealership and they verified that it is probably a cracked box. I did get an extended warranty, but the Service advisor said that this would not be covered. He quoted me $900 to pookey it or north of $3000 to replace it. Looks like I will be getting really farmillar with my wife's car! 
The Service Manager also asked if my car was ever in an accident. Not that I am aware of... I replied. He seemed to think these hairline cracks would be caused by an accident. Would this be the case with the others that have posted in this thread?
Brandon
The Service Manager also asked if my car was ever in an accident. Not that I am aware of... I replied. He seemed to think these hairline cracks would be caused by an accident. Would this be the case with the others that have posted in this thread?Brandon
Last edited by IGGYWOOWOO; 07-27-06 at 12:49 PM.
07-28-06, 05:10 AM
#18
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
At the end my job was $1,068 between parts and labor. As I said before it was all covered under my Certified PO warranty so luckily I didn't have to cough up any cash. I'm not sure how the Extended Warranty coverage plan works. If its differs from the CPO version you may want to read the fine print on your warranty contract just in case.
07-28-06, 09:12 PM
#19
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK... Qusestion? Is the "Evaporator" the Evaporator core?
Looking at my warranty, here is what is covered:
A/C Lines and Tubes
A/C Pressure Switches
Blower Motor
Compressor
Compressor Clutch Assembly
Condenser
Condenser Fan and Motor
Cooler Control Switch (NOT COVERED)
Cooler Unit (NOT COVERED)
Damper Servo (NOT COVERED)
Defroster Cable Control (NOT COVERED)
EVAPORATOR
Expansion Valve
Heater Control Head (NOT COVERED)
Heater Control Valve
Heater Core (NOT COVERED)
Pressure Regualtor Assembly
Receiver/Dryer
Schrader Valve
Seals and Gaskets
All Items that are not covered are denoted obviously as (NOT COVERED)
NOW... Should this be covered???? I have 1000 miles left on my warranty
Brandon
Looking at my warranty, here is what is covered:
A/C Lines and Tubes
A/C Pressure Switches
Blower Motor
Compressor
Compressor Clutch Assembly
Condenser
Condenser Fan and Motor
Cooler Control Switch (NOT COVERED)
Cooler Unit (NOT COVERED)
Damper Servo (NOT COVERED)
Defroster Cable Control (NOT COVERED)
EVAPORATOR
Expansion Valve
Heater Control Head (NOT COVERED)
Heater Control Valve
Heater Core (NOT COVERED)
Pressure Regualtor Assembly
Receiver/Dryer
Schrader Valve
Seals and Gaskets
All Items that are not covered are denoted obviously as (NOT COVERED)
NOW... Should this be covered???? I have 1000 miles left on my warranty
Brandon
07-29-06, 07:54 AM
#20
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brandon,
In my case the Evaporator had a hairline crack whice they sealed, this was not replaced with a new unit. Now the heater core was completely replaced with a new unit which was the main cause of the leak.
In your case the heater core is not covered. So the quote you were given of approx $900 will most likely be true. It may breakdown as $300 for the part and $600 for the labor. Plus, other stuff like coolant. It's ridiculous that the labor is more than the damn part. Well I think its because the dash needs to be removed and that alone can be a hassle.
I recommend you you get all the details up front with your Lexus dealer just to make sure you have no surprises at the end. Also, mention to them that if any else comes up while the job is being performed that they contact you immediately to confirm with you whats going on. This way you know beforehand if any charges will be additional.
Also, it never hurts to negotiate pricing with the service rep from the dealer.
Hope this give you an idea what youre looking at. Good luck.
Gus
In my case the Evaporator had a hairline crack whice they sealed, this was not replaced with a new unit. Now the heater core was completely replaced with a new unit which was the main cause of the leak.
In your case the heater core is not covered. So the quote you were given of approx $900 will most likely be true. It may breakdown as $300 for the part and $600 for the labor. Plus, other stuff like coolant. It's ridiculous that the labor is more than the damn part. Well I think its because the dash needs to be removed and that alone can be a hassle.
I recommend you you get all the details up front with your Lexus dealer just to make sure you have no surprises at the end. Also, mention to them that if any else comes up while the job is being performed that they contact you immediately to confirm with you whats going on. This way you know beforehand if any charges will be additional.
Also, it never hurts to negotiate pricing with the service rep from the dealer.
Hope this give you an idea what youre looking at. Good luck.
Gus
07-29-06, 11:10 AM
#21
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't think there is a problem with my heater core. I think the evaporator is just cracked. Hence the $900 pookey job. I did take the car to the dealership and that is what they told me. If my warranty will not cover I will just repair it myself.... But I would rather my warranty cover it. The dealership did check with my warranty as it is through Toyota... as I purchased my wifes car at a Toyota dealership, The warranty people said it was not covered. WTF? 
07-29-06, 01:30 PM
#22
Lead Lap
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Texas
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmmm... is the term "evaporator" being used instead of "evaporator core box"? I would take it that if the evaporator core itself was cracked, refrigerant would leak out and a/c would get no longer cool. So it is the box surrounding the evaporator core that is being reported cracked.
Has anyone seen these cracks personally in the box?
We know that normally the water that condenses on the evaporator core would drip in the box, to the drain, and out the condensate line, thru the rubber hose towards pass side underbody.
But what I am now thinking is there any other way besides $1000 fix that is the root cause? (I'm a great wishful thinker, right?)
Here is something we should test. What if the condensate drip line is plugged or somewhat plugged? Could the a/c condensate collect in enough volume to then leak from the evaporator core box into the interior, having nowhere else to go? Could depend on angle of car, turns, etc. It seems possible the drain line could over time become restricted. I have not see the box so this is just a sanity check for something that is simple. I just don't see Lexus applying a cheap evap box to this level of car. But I have not yet seen what the box looks like. I have a set of Lexus shop books on the way so I'll see how it looks when I get them.
Think of the house A/C system with a safety drip pan around the evap unit in the house (attic on mine). Here in Texas we have to check that drain often, because if it plugs, that pan fills up fast and since the A/C is in the attic, it can drop onto the ceilings. Most new houses have a 2nd condensate drip line, from the pan, that signals the primary is plugged.
Thoughts?
Has anyone seen these cracks personally in the box?
We know that normally the water that condenses on the evaporator core would drip in the box, to the drain, and out the condensate line, thru the rubber hose towards pass side underbody.
But what I am now thinking is there any other way besides $1000 fix that is the root cause? (I'm a great wishful thinker, right?)
Here is something we should test. What if the condensate drip line is plugged or somewhat plugged? Could the a/c condensate collect in enough volume to then leak from the evaporator core box into the interior, having nowhere else to go? Could depend on angle of car, turns, etc. It seems possible the drain line could over time become restricted. I have not see the box so this is just a sanity check for something that is simple. I just don't see Lexus applying a cheap evap box to this level of car. But I have not yet seen what the box looks like. I have a set of Lexus shop books on the way so I'll see how it looks when I get them.
Think of the house A/C system with a safety drip pan around the evap unit in the house (attic on mine). Here in Texas we have to check that drain often, because if it plugs, that pan fills up fast and since the A/C is in the attic, it can drop onto the ceilings. Most new houses have a 2nd condensate drip line, from the pan, that signals the primary is plugged.
Thoughts?
07-30-06, 07:10 PM
#24
Lead Lap
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Texas
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by IGGYWOOWOO
Do you have more specifics on the drain hose? I will check this asap just to see what it looks like. You mentioned that it was on the passneger side...
Brandon
Brandon
If you peer under the car just behind the pass front tire, where the control arms, etc tie in, you should see the dripping there.
12-02-07, 10:48 AM
#25
Driver
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmmm... is the term "evaporator" being used instead of "evaporator core box"? I would take it that if the evaporator core itself was cracked, refrigerant would leak out and a/c would get no longer cool. So it is the box surrounding the evaporator core that is being reported cracked.
Has anyone seen these cracks personally in the box?
We know that normally the water that condenses on the evaporator core would drip in the box, to the drain, and out the condensate line, thru the rubber hose towards pass side underbody.
But what I am now thinking is there any other way besides $1000 fix that is the root cause? (I'm a great wishful thinker, right?)
Here is something we should test. What if the condensate drip line is plugged or somewhat plugged? Could the a/c condensate collect in enough volume to then leak from the evaporator core box into the interior, having nowhere else to go? Could depend on angle of car, turns, etc. It seems possible the drain line could over time become restricted. I have not see the box so this is just a sanity check for something that is simple. I just don't see Lexus applying a cheap evap box to this level of car. But I have not yet seen what the box looks like. I have a set of Lexus shop books on the way so I'll see how it looks when I get them.
Think of the house A/C system with a safety drip pan around the evap unit in the house (attic on mine). Here in Texas we have to check that drain often, because if it plugs, that pan fills up fast and since the A/C is in the attic, it can drop onto the ceilings. Most new houses have a 2nd condensate drip line, from the pan, that signals the primary is plugged.
Thoughts?
Has anyone seen these cracks personally in the box?
We know that normally the water that condenses on the evaporator core would drip in the box, to the drain, and out the condensate line, thru the rubber hose towards pass side underbody.
But what I am now thinking is there any other way besides $1000 fix that is the root cause? (I'm a great wishful thinker, right?)
Here is something we should test. What if the condensate drip line is plugged or somewhat plugged? Could the a/c condensate collect in enough volume to then leak from the evaporator core box into the interior, having nowhere else to go? Could depend on angle of car, turns, etc. It seems possible the drain line could over time become restricted. I have not see the box so this is just a sanity check for something that is simple. I just don't see Lexus applying a cheap evap box to this level of car. But I have not yet seen what the box looks like. I have a set of Lexus shop books on the way so I'll see how it looks when I get them.
Think of the house A/C system with a safety drip pan around the evap unit in the house (attic on mine). Here in Texas we have to check that drain often, because if it plugs, that pan fills up fast and since the A/C is in the attic, it can drop onto the ceilings. Most new houses have a 2nd condensate drip line, from the pan, that signals the primary is plugged.
Thoughts?
12-12-07, 09:59 AM
#27
be lucky it's not antifreeze leaking on the passenger side, that was my heater core, and it cost me 1200 and a free car wash to do it at the dealer. took them 2 weeks, but i switched up on loaner cars when i did it.
