supraken

Great stuff, seems pretty easy to get to on this car

salvadorik

iTrader: (1)

bigblack06, is there any special reason you use royal purple full synthetic oil? I noticed it is the most expensive brand out there but is it worth the money? I know there Mobil 1 and Castrol also 0-20 and full synthetic but significantly cheaper. Just curious.

williakz

I believe spec for Lexus/Toyota cannister oil filter is 10,20,30 ft-lbs torque on the cannister drain plug (no longer applies on GS), cannister body, and oil pan drain plug, respectively. Be sure to use new gaskets on each (rubber on cannister), metal on oil pan.

bigblack06

iTrader: (20)

Its supposed to be better oil cause it last a little longer I usually use Mobile 1. Also better fuel economy it says.

bigblack06

iTrader: (20)

It is pretty easy, piece of mind knowing I changed my own oil, at least I know it was changed correctly.

cocoslove

Thanks for your post with picture! Great info.

mryeh17

Great write-up, I have been looking for a how-to on DIY oil change!

Was the picture of the filter cannister taken from underneath the vehicle? Any additional details on removing the filter, like first remove the cannister drain plug, then remove the cannister?

Sorry, coming from a 2000 A4 that had the old-fashioned oil filter you just screwed on and off.

Velgen

Thanks for sharing. Very nice DIY.

dangtheheo

nice DIY - had to search to find it. surprised its not added to the DIY list thread :|

sam430

iTrader: (10)

anyone use copper or aluminum washer for the drain plug? please list the parts info

after listening to this youtube video, does your oil fall into this spec?

peteharvey

peteharvey

Use rubber floor mat to protect concrete floor from oil spills, and use disposable gloves.
Disposable paper towels, and a tub of alcohol wipes come in handy too.

Toyota SST oil wrench very cheap:






Can buy the whole set if you like:




Need socket set, a manual ratchet wrench with 3/8" square drive for initial lug loosening, cordless drill with 3/8" and 1/2" square drive for speedy removal, and 2x torque wrenches with 1/2" and 3/8" square drive to fasten the oil sump plug to 40 Nm, and oil filter canister to 25 Nm respectively. Note that the 3/8" square drive torque wrench cannot deliver the 40 Nm required for the oil sump plug, [nor the 103 Nm required for the wheel studs when removing the alloy wheels]:

peteharvey

Yes, you must remove the drain plug, and drain all the oil out first, because if you don't drain all the oil out initially, when you remove the oil filter canister, oil will go everywhere!

Tip: Leave the oil filler cap on and tight, before you drain the oil.
This will ensure that the oil drains "slowly" into the bucket [due to atmospheric pressure holding the oil inside the oil pan].
If you remove the oil filler cap, and then remove the oil sump plug to drain all the oil out, the oil will gush all over the place, making a big mess on the concrete floor, because air and atmospheric pressure is allowed to enter the engine from the top, to push the oil out of the lower drain plug.

NB
I may have misunderstood your question.
My oil canister has a large decagonal [ten sided], or polygonal [many/multiple sided] end, to which the SST oil removing tool is attached for removal.
I do not have a separate oil canister hex drain plug; or not that I know of?
Or is the oil canister drain plug one of the two internal hex nuts to the right of the oil canister in the third photo above?
_

xRYD3Rx

How many quarts for RWD?
And would you guys recommend toyota 0w20 or mobil 0w20

vinnier6

Thanks guys