What now?...
11-07-14, 09:47 AM
#2
Racer
Where is it smoking from?
It looks to me like the water that you left in your spark plug galley is finally boiling off.
It looks to me like the water that you left in your spark plug galley is finally boiling off.
11-07-14, 10:48 AM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
11-07-14, 03:32 PM
#5
Racer
That coolant hose under the throttle body is a good place to check ^^
11-30-14, 02:10 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NV
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Like previously stated check all coolant hoses to see if it is dripping onto hot surfaces(exhaust,valve covers anything that can cause steam) also check the hose in the back of the head that goes to the heater control valve, I have seen those leak before. Best of luck!
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12-01-14, 05:29 PM
#8
Driver
Thread Starter
Well I figured out that steam is coming from that area as well as from the reservoir because the anti-freeze gets so hot that it just bubbles. Head gasket most likely?
12-02-14, 12:23 AM
#9
Racer
Sounds like you are getting air in your system and it is preventing it from sealing. You should double and quadruple check the throttle body hose, along with all other coolant lines.
You should have a test done on your coolant to see if exhaust gasses are getting in, but I don't think you popped a HG. Maybe..
You should have a test done on your coolant to see if exhaust gasses are getting in, but I don't think you popped a HG. Maybe..
12-03-14, 08:03 AM
#11
This is from an old post. Before performing this test, make sure to park your car on a slope where the front of the car is higher than the rear, and let your car idle for 10-15 minutes. This way all the bubbles rise toward the radiator, and leave the engine block. Then drive the car home and let it sit for a long while and get completely cool.
The other option is that it may be a bad head gasket, or small fissure in the block/head.
1) To check this you can let your car sit until the engine is completely cold.
2) Open the radiator cap and make sure the coolant/water level is toped off in the radiator.
3) Making sure the motor and coolant are completely cold, start the motor.
3) Then watch the radiator's cap.
4) If the water/coolant gushes/bubbles out non-stop (not dribbles over the stem/neck that the radiator cap secures to) at idle or if you rev the engine to around 1k -2k rpms and hold it for ~10-15 seconds(via throttle body is easiest) then there is a good chance the head gasket is bad or the block/head has a crack in it.
___________________________________________________________
I just used this product (bar's block seal) for my overheating engine and it worked. Follow the instructions exactly. I almost did follow the instructions exactly, except at the last step, I did not remove the product. I drove with the product in the engine/radiator for 3-5 days....actually truth be told, I need to check because I may have forgotten to remove it. If so, it has been almost 2 months.
It is the Bar Leaks - head gasket repair block seal (part no. 1100) in the grey bottle. It has a grey outline of a 3 cylinder head gasket in the background, and it costs ~$12. It is far cheaper than the $750 head gasket parts and labor I had to spend on my last 2jzge (only to have it fail again in less than a year).
check the reviews and stories on amazon.com.. there are nothing but good things to say.
Bar's Leaks 1100 Head Gasket Repair - 20 oz.
.
.
http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view...et-repair-1100
after I finished with the product, I did a gradual 15 min. triple digit speed test on the motor in the early-early morning. I had to make sure that the engine was reliable for the week to follow. Everything went excellent. the engine runs slightly hotter (need to check if I removed the product from cooling system.), but that is not an issue at all.
I hope this helps.
The other option is that it may be a bad head gasket, or small fissure in the block/head.
1) To check this you can let your car sit until the engine is completely cold.
2) Open the radiator cap and make sure the coolant/water level is toped off in the radiator.
3) Making sure the motor and coolant are completely cold, start the motor.
3) Then watch the radiator's cap.
4) If the water/coolant gushes/bubbles out non-stop (not dribbles over the stem/neck that the radiator cap secures to) at idle or if you rev the engine to around 1k -2k rpms and hold it for ~10-15 seconds(via throttle body is easiest) then there is a good chance the head gasket is bad or the block/head has a crack in it.
___________________________________________________________
I just used this product (bar's block seal) for my overheating engine and it worked. Follow the instructions exactly. I almost did follow the instructions exactly, except at the last step, I did not remove the product. I drove with the product in the engine/radiator for 3-5 days....actually truth be told, I need to check because I may have forgotten to remove it. If so, it has been almost 2 months.
It is the Bar Leaks - head gasket repair block seal (part no. 1100) in the grey bottle. It has a grey outline of a 3 cylinder head gasket in the background, and it costs ~$12. It is far cheaper than the $750 head gasket parts and labor I had to spend on my last 2jzge (only to have it fail again in less than a year).
check the reviews and stories on amazon.com.. there are nothing but good things to say.
Bar's Leaks 1100 Head Gasket Repair - 20 oz.
.
.
http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view...et-repair-1100
after I finished with the product, I did a gradual 15 min. triple digit speed test on the motor in the early-early morning. I had to make sure that the engine was reliable for the week to follow. Everything went excellent. the engine runs slightly hotter (need to check if I removed the product from cooling system.), but that is not an issue at all.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by kene; 12-03-14 at 08:11 AM.
12-03-14, 04:02 PM
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
Sounds like you are getting air in your system and it is preventing it from sealing. You should double and quadruple check the throttle body hose, along with all other coolant lines.
You should have a test done on your coolant to see if exhaust gasses are getting in, but I don't think you popped a HG. Maybe..
You should have a test done on your coolant to see if exhaust gasses are getting in, but I don't think you popped a HG. Maybe..
Another thing is, smoke is coming from the reservoir as well. I can hear the coolant in there bubbling.
Should I also try a new radiator cap?
12-03-14, 11:27 PM
#13
You say smoke coming from the reservoir. . And it's bubbling?
With the radiator cool, remove the cap, top off the coolant and start the car. Turn the heater controls to full hot. Let it run and warm up. Watch the radiator fill for a stream of bubbles. . Not big bubbles and releases of air. . But a steady stream of fine bubbles. If you see this. ..its bad news. It means that there is a pinhole leak that is allowing cylinder compression to enter the water jacket and cooling system.
It may just be that you have not bled the coolant fully. I have had success almost every time by jacking up the front of the car and filling slowly with the car running. Again make sure the heater valve is fully open. When the thermostat opens fully the level will drop a lot, top it off and cap the rad. Let the car continue to run and verify the fans work..etc. Let it cycle them on and off a few times.
Raising the front end causes the air bubbles in the system to be evacuated to the highest point, which is either the filler neck, or when capped, the reservoir.
Best of luck
With the radiator cool, remove the cap, top off the coolant and start the car. Turn the heater controls to full hot. Let it run and warm up. Watch the radiator fill for a stream of bubbles. . Not big bubbles and releases of air. . But a steady stream of fine bubbles. If you see this. ..its bad news. It means that there is a pinhole leak that is allowing cylinder compression to enter the water jacket and cooling system.
It may just be that you have not bled the coolant fully. I have had success almost every time by jacking up the front of the car and filling slowly with the car running. Again make sure the heater valve is fully open. When the thermostat opens fully the level will drop a lot, top it off and cap the rad. Let the car continue to run and verify the fans work..etc. Let it cycle them on and off a few times.
Raising the front end causes the air bubbles in the system to be evacuated to the highest point, which is either the filler neck, or when capped, the reservoir.
Best of luck
12-03-14, 11:35 PM
#14
Just thought of something else. Check the temp of the radiator hoses. The upper and lower hoses should be roughly the same temp when the car is at operating temp. If the top hose is burning hot to the touch, and the lower one is noticeably cooler, then the thermostat may be stuck closed, and causing the head to overheat and boil the coolant because it can't circulate thru the system.
