joewitafro

developed rod knock in my 260k 2jzge. I have been advised by a few shops and friends that cutting into the crank reduces the reliability, especially if I have any plans of turboing (I do)

I have been calling shops for quotes on a full rebuild, and I am not happy with the prices So that had me wondering about an aristo swap.
I would appreciate a few others to look into the build prices and give me some advice on what You would do? I am starting to feel the aristo 2jzgte swap would be the least labor and cheapest.

Toyota parts (with discount):
Rod bearing set - $91.40
main bearing set - $179.99
thrust washer set - $28.27
oil pump - $135.69
water pump - $151.29
full GE gasket kit - $219.01
used crank $150-$250
ARP head studs - $159
toyota rod bolts - $32.40
toyota main bolts - $41.72
timing belt - $24.66
piston rings - $140.97
wrist pin bushings - $14.28
oversized oil filter - $6.50
pilot bearing - $7.50
2jz thermostat - $21
NGK BKR6EGP plugs -$21.60

Total parts: $1525.28

I have three quotes thus far for machine shops with the head having a standard rebuild. Total labor for Somers machine quoted at $2222.47 estimated which brings my total near $3750.
M&B cylinder heads whose known for building 2jzgte's gave me a VERY rough estimate of parts/labor totaling $3330 but that figure will most certainly rise considering the lack of prices they gave me in a quote. Tabors automotive quoted me a rough estimate of 1400 on labor only, which would be about $2925 total excluding near $200 in tax (Which would also be added to Somers)

So i started digging around to see how much a GTE swap would cost me...
I found three on ebay for 2800 shipped and a front clip in seattle for 3000 shipped.

2jzgte aristo motorset or clip - $2800-$3000
NGK spark plugs - $21.60
Toyota oil filter - $6.50
pilot bearing - $7.50
2jz thermostat - $21
timing belt $24.66
radiator hose set $32.50
water pump $151.29
ebay 24x12x3 intercooler - $100
universal 3" piping kit - $115

Total for GTE swap estimated so far.. $3280-$3500


What do you guys think? I would much rather pick up a GTE swap if i can indeed get one that is in good condition, which is the whole hard part about it. I feel the clip in seattle would be my best option because I feel it might have less things cut or broken on the motor. But I don't know how long the car will be available.

TRACKMKIII

Sorry to hear about you motor letting go!! I haven't dont all of the research on a GTE swap but if the price for a rebuild vs the price of the GTE swap is even remotely close then the swap is the way to go!! The one piece of advice I can give you is to make sure you do a lot of research and make sure you have all of the parts/prices needed to complete the swap I.e. mounts, hose, clamps because those are the things that can stop a swap or push the price out of reach!! Either way good luck and keep us posted!!

ClarkKent

How was it running before the knock? I wouldn't think you would need to abandon fixing the problem just yet.

joewitafro

The motor burns oil past the valves, leaks oil in several places and now has a rod knock. I have acquired $3500 and I am planning on doing the TT JDM Aristo swap and keep the stock twins.

I have found a full front clip in seattle for $3000 shipped but the guy wont take pictures of it for me yet and just seems rude on the phone. Wont really give me information about it, even though it seems like the best option (and what I want). How could I start a half cut if I bought it? I know battery... what to do about fuel?

I have found a JDM source motor for 3000 shipped thats already out of the car, and they will provide pictures, and a compression test, all of the places have 30 day guarantee's from arrival so I cant purchase anything yet until my car gets in the shop and my motor gets yanked...

I found another place for 2850 shipped in Texas and they will provide pictures and information on my motor after I pay for it.. Seems a little fishy to me but they have good reviews? I found buyjdm has a motor for about 2800 shipped and they will provide pictures and a dry and wet compression test video but its pulled out of the car obviously... And I found another for 2650 shipped in texas but that worries me a tad, considering if theres any problems I have to Ship back to TX!

ClarkKent

Keep talking to the local dude and see if you can get the price down. Tell him his price and attitude are forcing you to look elsewhere for the same machine.

Nixspeed

Swap is the best way to go. Stock twins are most likely blown though so they'll need replaced/rebuilt which I found much easier to just go single. Far less complicated and you don't have to hammer on your firewall to fit them. Also you'll need front/rear crank seals, cam seals, motor mounts unless yours just so happen to be the only set to stay together (both my GS and aristo swap had bad mounts and after research they all deteriorate), you'll need to modify or build new exhaust. The intercooler is a tight fit and you'll need to move a lot of the ac stuff. 3" Ic pipe I feel is too big unless you're going for big power which stock twins won't support. I'm making 400whp with 2.5" pipe and no issues.

Read the swap thread on here as there is a lot of little parts I know I'm forgetting about that you'll need for the swap. Although being manual swap already you saved a lot of headache there with trans swap.

My Aristo swap has been one of my favorite projects and continues to be a great daily driver that is faster than most cars I encounter.

joewitafro

Nix, would you reccomend I go with a cheaper (2000-2300 dollar) motor that is already pulled out and then either find a set of USDM twins or go single rather than the 2800 or 3000 dollar half cut?

I was looking at a smaller intercooler with 2.5" piping. I will look into motor mounts for sure, but I think i will just have to do solid mounts or something (does anyone make em?)

Titten

Why do you think you need solid motor mounts? And you're spot on the 2.5 inch intercooler piping.

joewitafro

Because I assume the aristo and my mounts are pretty terrible, and solid (which i dont mind feeling a little more performance "feel") would be cheaper than OEM 98+ TT mounts especially if I can make them myself.

Nixspeed

I think Megan racing makes solid mounts but I'm not sure. I think I got some OE mounts from a sc300 as the GS are discontinued. I would say get the clip just so you know its all there however I don't use much of my clip at all just motor and trans basically. Just make sure you get igniter, PS resivoir etc for the body portion. Stock twins is not my recommendation just for fitment reasons but it can be done.

joewitafro

Yeah honestly I already had to pound the **** out of my transmission tunnel to fit an R154, and pound the hell out of my firewall to make it flat enough and then cut a hole in it for my clutch master. To be honest... I was considering not even extending the harness to save trouble and cut a new hole in the firewall to run the harness. I don't feel this "base" is the best project to aim for perfection, so pounding the firewall a little for the twins isn't an issue anyways...

I figure in the far future I will probably buy a good shell and swap everything onto it as I started out pretty rough as is.

Nixspeed

Very true. Just tap it in. Taparoo.

joewitafro

Nix I heard you got ties for a pheonix tuning harness? Sent you a pm but you haven't been online! Need your help bro! lol

djspock303

Not sure what time frame or constraints that you have or budget but here is a timeline of how i went about my projects and learning more than you ever want to know about a 2jz and acquired lots of tools in the process.

Had a NA 2001 Lexus is300 that i raced in SCCA and a sep car for a dd. That was my first experience really working with the car.

later down the road it actually became my daily because i bought a

2002 is300 and built a big turbo motor, manny, i drag race it etc. After kids i sold the 2001 is300 for the $ and felt ok about driving my 2002 booted is300.

For the most part i have not had a lot of down time with the 2002 boosted is300 and when i did i would borrow a family car or my wifes car but it was a hassle.

Pretty sure the release bearing on my trans went loose Saturday and work has me on a strick schedule and i refused to pay a trans shop like 2000 to drop my trans and put it back in.

I paid 2800 for a daily driver 1993 good shape good cared for GS300 thats now my daily driver while i work on the is300. Then i will prob sell the is300 as its to small for my fam and keep this GS300 around as a beater.

I will also prob buy a 2011 gs350 awd for a daily driver to get to and from work with my kids safely.

Then in the empty garage it will be begging for a Supra to be built.

Point being by the time i get to the Supra that will be the 4th 2jz-ge motor i have worked on. Two of the four being boosted motors.

There really is not that much of a difference between the 2jz-gte, 2jz-ge, 2jz-ge vvti, and 2jz-gte vvti.

Thats way better than paying someone!

Also if you want to see some really fast 2jz look no further as they are all right here in Kansas .