Need input ASAP
04-30-14, 09:21 AM
#1
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Need input ASAP
Hello my name is Jason and I have a white 93 Gs300. Tan leather interior fully loaded. It has around 210k miles. Head gasket blew but I'm on the edge about getting a new engine or just put the new parts I already have in. Please help, I need to know what's best. I'm afraid if I fix the head then the compression will be to much for the bottom end.
I plain on putting it on some black 17" rims so I'll also need some tips on the best way to lower the car a little. I've replaced the stock sub with a 10" kicker and will soon replace the door speakers.
With that being said any tips/tricks I'm all ears.
I also need help finding the right 100 amp ALT fuse.
Also any white fuel doors around?
I plain on putting it on some black 17" rims so I'll also need some tips on the best way to lower the car a little. I've replaced the stock sub with a 10" kicker and will soon replace the door speakers.
With that being said any tips/tricks I'm all ears.
I also need help finding the right 100 amp ALT fuse.
Also any white fuel doors around?
04-30-14, 09:50 AM
#2
Racer
If you plan on fixing your setup I highly reccomend rebuilding the bottom end while your at it. If you replace the motor, I would advise to get an aristo swap (but theres a lot more involved in that)...
If your lucky you can find a lower mile NA motor but still going to spend half the cost of what a full rebuild would.. And labor.
If your lucky you can find a lower mile NA motor but still going to spend half the cost of what a full rebuild would.. And labor.
04-30-14, 11:59 AM
#3
I replaced my head gasket 4 months ago. It was a lot of fun depending on how you look at it.
$130 Head Gasket Kit (New Tensioner, pulley, etc)
$70 Head bolts.
$70 Clutch
$130 new Water Pump
I have a thread on here about it.
I would replace the oil pump if I were you. Welcome to CL
$130 Head Gasket Kit (New Tensioner, pulley, etc)
$70 Head bolts.
$70 Clutch
$130 new Water Pump
I have a thread on here about it.
I would replace the oil pump if I were you. Welcome to CL
04-30-14, 01:24 PM
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If you plan on fixing your setup I highly reccomend rebuilding the bottom end while your at it. If you replace the motor, I would advise to get an aristo swap (but theres a lot more involved in that)...
If your lucky you can find a lower mile NA motor but still going to spend half the cost of what a full rebuild would.. And labor.
If your lucky you can find a lower mile NA motor but still going to spend half the cost of what a full rebuild would.. And labor.
04-30-14, 01:25 PM
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I replaced my head gasket 4 months ago. It was a lot of fun depending on how you look at it.
$130 Head Gasket Kit (New Tensioner, pulley, etc)
$70 Head bolts.
$70 Clutch
$130 new Water Pump
I have a thread on here about it.
I would replace the oil pump if I were you. Welcome to CL
$130 Head Gasket Kit (New Tensioner, pulley, etc)
$70 Head bolts.
$70 Clutch
$130 new Water Pump
I have a thread on here about it.
I would replace the oil pump if I were you. Welcome to CL
04-30-14, 01:34 PM
#6
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I only paid $600. The guy I got it from was planning to fix it but he had so many projects he sold me the lexus to get parts for another car. He got it from a guy who was driving it with a bad water pump. So when it got fixed it started dumping the water. This being how I ended up getting the parts as well
04-30-14, 04:48 PM
#7
Racer
I would fix it with the parts and not worry about a turbo until you can rebuild the bottom end and head
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05-02-14, 01:32 PM
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05-02-14, 03:52 PM
#9
Racer
Usually when your running boost, you want to have ARP main studs, have your crank alligned and new bearings on your crank, rods, and new rings and wrist pins, cylinder honing and balancing everything together and assembled as a short block by the machine shop. You should also have your head gone through and have the valves reseated along with new valve guides and seals, and clean the surface of the head... have the cams put in and then you can buy the full gasket kit from toyota and replace everything you can.
You would then have a 0 mile 2jz motor capable of 700ftlbs of torque reliably before you start having stock rod troubles.. If you want to upgrade for more horsepower I recommend looking at rods with ARP hardware and see what people say, but I am always one for overbuilding the motor and having it done properly. ARP head studs and flywheel hardware and the motor if done right will easily last you 200,000 miles more even with some boost.
For all of this your looking at about $2000 in machining costs/labor/parts but will have a pretty damn solid motor in comparison to a JDM imported motor that has never had the oil changed that is completely caked with burnt sludge (possibly) or brittle/cut connectors for 2500-3000.
You would then have a 0 mile 2jz motor capable of 700ftlbs of torque reliably before you start having stock rod troubles.. If you want to upgrade for more horsepower I recommend looking at rods with ARP hardware and see what people say, but I am always one for overbuilding the motor and having it done properly. ARP head studs and flywheel hardware and the motor if done right will easily last you 200,000 miles more even with some boost.
For all of this your looking at about $2000 in machining costs/labor/parts but will have a pretty damn solid motor in comparison to a JDM imported motor that has never had the oil changed that is completely caked with burnt sludge (possibly) or brittle/cut connectors for 2500-3000.
05-06-14, 09:19 AM
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Usually when your running boost, you want to have ARP main studs, have your crank alligned and new bearings on your crank, rods, and new rings and wrist pins, cylinder honing and balancing everything together and assembled as a short block by the machine shop. You should also have your head gone through and have the valves reseated along with new valve guides and seals, and clean the surface of the head... have the cams put in and then you can buy the full gasket kit from toyota and replace everything you can.
You would then have a 0 mile 2jz motor capable of 700ftlbs of torque reliably before you start having stock rod troubles.. If you want to upgrade for more horsepower I recommend looking at rods with ARP hardware and see what people say, but I am always one for overbuilding the motor and having it done properly. ARP head studs and flywheel hardware and the motor if done right will easily last you 200,000 miles more even with some boost.
For all of this your looking at about $2000 in machining costs/labor/parts but will have a pretty damn solid motor in comparison to a JDM imported motor that has never had the oil changed that is completely caked with burnt sludge (possibly) or brittle/cut connectors for 2500-3000.
You would then have a 0 mile 2jz motor capable of 700ftlbs of torque reliably before you start having stock rod troubles.. If you want to upgrade for more horsepower I recommend looking at rods with ARP hardware and see what people say, but I am always one for overbuilding the motor and having it done properly. ARP head studs and flywheel hardware and the motor if done right will easily last you 200,000 miles more even with some boost.
For all of this your looking at about $2000 in machining costs/labor/parts but will have a pretty damn solid motor in comparison to a JDM imported motor that has never had the oil changed that is completely caked with burnt sludge (possibly) or brittle/cut connectors for 2500-3000.
05-06-14, 04:25 PM
#11
Racer
Yes, if you just replace say your head gasket, you will need to make sure the surface of the head and block are smooth... Typically you have your head checked for flatness by a machine shop in case it got hot from overheating and possibly "warped" the head.
After its surfaced/or cleaned you can throw new gaskets on and reassemble following the toyota service repair manual.
After its surfaced/or cleaned you can throw new gaskets on and reassemble following the toyota service repair manual.
05-20-14, 08:07 PM
#12
250k when I replaced the head gasket. Joewitafro helped me out a ton. Thanks Joe!
Like I mentioned I replaced the bare essentials and rolled the dice. Wasn't in a good position when I did the work.
I didn't bother with the head and just bolted it back together and crossed my fingers. I even dumped the valve seats out of the head while cleaning.
I cleaned everything over and over again and put everything back together. I had one mishap when a bolt slid down and lodged itself in the timing belt and chewed it up. I made it home to quickly replace the timing belt again! I don't know if I'm lucky or cursed.
Like I mentioned I replaced the bare essentials and rolled the dice. Wasn't in a good position when I did the work.
I didn't bother with the head and just bolted it back together and crossed my fingers. I even dumped the valve seats out of the head while cleaning.
I cleaned everything over and over again and put everything back together. I had one mishap when a bolt slid down and lodged itself in the timing belt and chewed it up. I made it home to quickly replace the timing belt again! I don't know if I'm lucky or cursed.
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