93GS300ATL

Help! Stupid me. Prior to replacing alternator on my 1993 GS300 (207,000 miles - 4th alternator), I used gunk engine cleaner and water hose sprayer to give me a cleaner enviroment for the alternator replacement. I know better than getting top of engine components wet but evidently, I must have been sloppy for engine runs rough, stumbles upon acceleration. I can force it to get up to any speed and seems to run relatively smooth at the steady speed but upon any acceleration, it badly stumbles. It's quite scary from a stop light. Exhaust a course smells bad.

Anyhow, a mechanic in 2004 had steamed clean engine compartment without my permission and it then had same problem that I have now. He had to work on it quite a bit to get it back to running smoothly but don't know what components he had to unplug, dry, clean. It's been five days now and still have problem (car is basically undriveable) and having to use my 85 Supra as back up car and it has it's own list of problems.

Would appreciate any advice on what to do. Cannot afford to take to mechanic. When responding, please give full name description of components for I have no cross reference for the normal abreviations used. Also if anyone has a link to shop manual with diagrams of components on engine would also help. Btw, it seems all the wiring clips into components are brittle so any advice on how to disconnect if needed without doing more damage?

I knew better, but got lazy and sloppy when cleaning engine and am now paying the price.
As the years go by, it happens sometimes.

Thanks

ayyofresh

Did you check your spark plugs? I had the same problem after water spraying my engine bay and had the same problems that you're having. Opened the spark plug cover and there was A LOT of water. I didn't think so much water could get in there, but it did.

2GSC300

iTrader: (6)

Like Ayyofresh said, start with the spark plus. Then replace distributor gasket or distributor to prevent oil from leaking onto the alternator.

93GS300ATL

Thankyou, thankyou - Your advice was right on. I had earlier removed plate in the rear over spark plugs but all was dry from heat of engine. The rear of engine is really where I had lightly sprayed water on the top side. After your advice, I removed plate again and then the actual spark plug wire on #6 and it was sopping water/oily wet in the hole. Used rag and blowout with air compressor to clean. Also to #5 splug. Test drove and all is ok. Had no idea bad spark would cause severe stumbling upon accleration. Thought for sure I had messed up mass air flow meter or the number of throttle postioning conrtol stuff.

Now what is this recommendation about replacing distributor gasket from the second replier? I've always thought all the oil dripping is from upper engine gaskets which is happening but can fixing a leak at distributor help out spcifically above alternator? The trade off of not fixing oil leaks was replacing alternator every couple of years.

Thanks again

ayyofresh

Yeah the first I did was check the MAF that was fine, but the spark plugs was the second thing to check. Glad this helped.

2GSC300

iTrader: (6)

The distributor sits directly about the alternator. When it leaks, it leaks directly onto the alternator. The seal costs $5 at Toyota. Depending on how bad it leaks, it will be every couple months and not years.

93GS300ATL

Still running rough, stumbling on acceleration only after engine is warmed up at normal operating temperatures. How does one check the MAF? Runs fine when cold upon startup.

2GSC300

iTrader: (6)

Have you pulled the plug wires out of each of the 6 to check to see if the plug tubes are drowned with water or oil?

93GS300ATL

Evidently, old wires going down to 5 and 6 plug, oily and wet, caused engine stumbling. Replaced wires, spark plugs, (distributor/rotor done last year) and all runs ok now except low idle accasionally after normal operating temperature.

Found the "picker upper" for reaching into spark plug holes indispensable in project. Also in reattaching heating hoses to throttle body, I used the adjustable hose clamps that can be tighten by screw driver or socket.

It was really quite simple what happened. Due to design of spark plug placement in deep valley, when water is introduced with exisiting oily residue plus old wires, you got a problem. Blowing out valley may not be sufficient as in my case. So glad I didn't mess with mass air flow sensor or throttle positioning control.

Thanks to all who gave me suggestions on what to check.

2GSC300

iTrader: (6)

No problem. I would go ahead and think of doing a spark plug replacement along with the other stuff.

TRENTIMUS

so did you ever get it fixed completely because I'm having the same problem did the same thing and it's almost fixed itself to the point it only messes at idle and after its warmed up at low rpm , and randomly upon acceleration


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TRENTIMUS

will changing the spark plugs wires cap rotor and ignition control module fix this problem? I've done everything but change the spark plugs and spark plug wires and I still have a little bit of a Miss after warms up any thoughts?


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RustyDawwg

Just had the same issues. Your car is misfiring. Get new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. You have to dry everything and check all your sensors (TPS harness needed to be replaced also). Chances are if your driving your car around with it misfiring , check your cat to see if it glows orange/red if so be ready to replace both of your now ruined cat and o2 sensors. Hopefully you won't make the same mistake I did and let your mechanic murder the electrical system with water. I went with NGK plugs/wires with OEM cap/rotor. Currently getting 300 to the tank city driving.

TRENTIMUS

No my cats aren't glowing .and no check engine light.doing plugs and wires next


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TRENTIMUS

330 mpg! Awesome.everything is dry all my connectors are dry and functioning.only thing left is the plugs and wires.hard to believe water can make spark plug wires fail.even though they were just changed in august.lol


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